To Restore or Resto-Mod 68 Fastback

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RedGTvert

Founding Member

Nov 21, 1999

3,129

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58

Wellington, FL

Mar 4, 2008

#21

• Mar 4, 2008

• #21

Wildthing1 said:

Hmmm. I was told by one of my Mustang friends that the best way to clean surface rust off the metal on the top, inside of the doors was to blast it with Walnut shells. Per this source the crinkle cannot be sanded because that would remove the crinkle (By crinkle I mean the metal that has raised areas on the inside of the car door).

What methods are there to clean this area on the doors when there is slight surface rust?

Any media's recommended for blasting the body?

Click to expand...

I guess I jumped the gun in not asking the media you were going to use. I just hate to see people make a big mistake with the crinkle.

 

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bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

5,640

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lubbock, texas

Mar 4, 2008

#22

• Mar 4, 2008

• #22

as long as you completely wash the surface afterwards soda is fine, in any case if you only do the crinkle finish it will be on the inside anyway and not as apt to create the kind of problems they are talking about.

 

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Wildthing1

New Member

Feb 26, 2008

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Mar 4, 2008

#23

• Mar 4, 2008

• #23

bnickel - I am not sure I have the cajones to spray soap and water on a bare metal vehicle that I care for. Wiping down with alcohol is one thing...the thought of giving the thing a car wash freaks me out a little...

Anyone ever use Starblast (3M Blast Media) on the body of a vehicle? Anything to watch out for?

 

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bnickel

Founding Member

Aug 21, 2002

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lubbock, texas

Mar 4, 2008

#24

• Mar 4, 2008

• #24

it's not that big a deal really. if you have an air compressor just blow dry the parts with air, then wipe them down with a good metal prep if you aren't going to prime the parts immediately with in the next couple of days. a lot of the metal prep's on the market also require the car to be rinsed before application of the metal prep. if you don't have an air compressor just use a leaf blower, obviously though if you're going to be blasting you have a compressor. the idea is to dry it off pretty quickly and not let it sit and air dry over a day or two

 

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Wildthing1

New Member

Feb 26, 2008

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Mar 5, 2008

#25

• Mar 5, 2008

• #25

bnickel - I didn't think about blow drying it. If I do it in July in the sunshine (with a large fan) it would actually 'bake out' rather quickly...also hit it with compressor air. Seems like there is a lot of liability though if you screw anything up with the soda blasting. (I guess that is the same with anything else though... )

Anyone know someone who has soda blasted and then painted? Were there any paint adhesion issues?

 

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electricgreen

Founding Member

Apr 9, 2002

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36

Western NY

Mar 6, 2008

#26

• Mar 6, 2008

• #26

If resale value is a concern, I'd vote for Bullitt, and against eleanore. Bullitt isn't a huge departure (looks wise) from the basic styling of that 68, eleanore is.

If you don't care about value, built what YOU want.

 

87gn2

New Member

Apr 17, 2004

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Mar 14, 2008

#27

• Mar 14, 2008

• #27

I'd definitely do some safety upgrades - brakes, suspension, tires etc - then go from there. You could keep it stock looking, but with excellent parts underneath.