Toe board and floor pan question

If you are doing both, put the seam where the factory did.

+1, I cut the toeboard to match the firewall/toeboard factory seam that stretches across the front. You can see that seam from under the car. The floor sits on top of the toeboard and should be cut to match the factory seam of the floor/tunnel metal.

NY-67tang - just answered your PM. Hope that helps, let me know if my description sucked.

NY-67stang said:

I have the toe pan and full length floor pans.
There is significant overlap between the two.

Is it better to trim the floor pan to meet the bottom of the toe pan or trim the bottom off of the toe pan to meet the floorpan?

Right now it looks like the floor pan is trimmed to meet the toe pan just before it rises.

I guess it depends on where the best place for the seam to be, on the toe board or the floor.

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I would say it depends on what you want. Ford put the seam in the easiest place for assembly, which also happens to be a crappy place for long term durability of the sheet metal. The nice thing about where Ford put the seam is you don't have to mess with the torque box welds when replacing a floor.

However, the factory location of the seam is perfect for water and debris to accumulate, which is exactly what you don't want to happen in body seams. Also, the driver's feet are going to rub on the floor in this area, which could wear off the paint or dislodge seam sealer over time.

If you want to make your car the best possible, I say move the seam up onto the toe pan (bottom of firewall) area where water won't sit and your shoe heels don't rub. More work but a better final product. Another option would be to do a butt weld rather than a flange. I don't know if I would trust myself to accomplish a butt weld on a large part like this, but flanges are where rust typically starts.

Hack said:

Also, the driver's feet are going to rub on the floor in this area, which could wear off the paint or dislodge seam sealer over time.

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Through the carpet and sound deadener pad?