tons of problems with NEW motor ..Any ideas ??please help

[lx2c6]

Ok to sum it up i have been having a hell of a time with my new 306 i dropped it in 2 weekends ago and i stil have yet to enjoy it , due to various issues, well one is this Vac leak i have a flucuating needle from 8in to 12 in of vac so first i checked the obvious with some brake clean to my intake gaskets and the motor jumped when i sprayed around it so i replaced the intake gaskets and while i was in there i re adj my scorpion 1.6 stud mount ( alum head , hyd roller ) cuz they were making to much noise and poss thinking that a valve was slightly hanging open cuz of an over tight issue( is that poss ? )( i followed the adj procedure perfectly so i put all back together and started it and wouldnt you know it my Vac is still the same (fluc and still 8-13in )(i installed new ford lifters and i did soak in trans fluid and prime the motor ) and my rockers are still making noise so now im in the process of tightening them while the motor is running and they dont seem to be geting any quieter ,i have only done bank 2 so far and im in the process of doin bank one ...If it was a valve / lifter issue , would i be able to see which lifter/ valve it is with my vac gauge hooked up and running and loosen the rocker arm to eliminate the valve and my vac should rise . Also while pulling the upper intake off i noticed the CYL 's 8-7-5 from upper to lower was wet with gas and oil mixed . why only these cyl's? , ( 73mm C&L maf , 24lb inj , 70mm accufab tb , 190lph ) all other intake runners are dry ..what caused this , any ideas or responses are appreciated ...thanks fellas !!!!!!!

 

[jrichker]

Find the sick cylinders...

Cylinder balance test:
Warm the car's engine up to normal operating temperature. Use a jumper wire or paper clip to put the computer into test mode. Start the engine and let it go through the normal diagnostic tests, then quickly press the throttle to the floor. The engine RPM should exceed 2500 RPM's for a brief second. The engine RPM's will increase to about 1450-1600 RPM and hold steady. The engine will shut off power to each injector, one at a time. When it has sequenced through all 8 injectors, it will flash 99 for everything OK, or the number of the failing cylinder such as 22 for cylinder #2. Quickly pressing the throttle again up to 2500 RPM’s will cause the test to re-run with smaller qualifying figures. Do it a third time, and if the same cylinder shows up, the cylinder is weak and isn’t putting out power like it should. See the Chilton’s Shop manual for the complete test procedure

Here's the link to dump the computer codes with only a jumper wire or paper clip and the check engine light, or test light or voltmeter. I’ve used it for years, and it works great.

See http://www.troublecodes.net/Ford/
OR
See http://www.dalidesign.com/hbook/eectest.html for more descriptive help
OR
See http://www.mustangworks.com/articles/electronics/eec-iv_codes.html

For those who are intimidated by all the wires & connections, see http://www.actron.com/product_detail.php?pid=16153 for what a typical hand scanner looks like. Normal retail price is about $30 or so at Walmart.