Holy f#ck...I REALLY need to do a PI swap + long tubes + pulleys + throttle body...250.2 rwhp 297 tq
gah...i hate how you have to do such major mods to achieve a 350+HP.
i consider that a major mod. lol
Well i was hoping for a little bit more hp, but it has the stock tuning. It still has stock PI cams, of course now im thinking of getting some vt stage 1 cams, but then agian 125 shot cost about the same and is easier to install.
and yes t/a means timing adjuster.
Im a tech at a dealer so i got the heads free and i did the work my self, so the only thing i realy had to buy were the long tubes, i had the t/a and pulleys before. So its cost be about 500 give or take with buying LT's and the water hose little stuff like that.
Nice numbers. Mine are almost identical with a little different mods. Do you have a stick or auto trans?
If I may suggest, your next mod should be to throw away the "kids" mufflers and get a good free flowing exhaust. It will make a big difference. Trust me. Hold off on the cam 'till this is done.
Send your EEC to Tim Barth and have him reflash it with an adaptive tune. Send him your dyno and a/f numbers.
Its Stick, the car sounds pretty good with the mufflers (bought car with them) but which ones would you suggest.. and who is Tim Barth and how much does he charge for a reflash??
I'm throwing down 200rwhp with approx. 225,000 miles and nearly stock car. My only power mods are K&N air filter (if even), Bassani O/R X, and Magnapack catback. You should easily put down 195rwhp or so.I might get my stock auto NPI dyno'd in the mid of this monthI'm wondering if it'll throw down 180-185 with 150k miles on it
Is this true even if you don't have a tune?Check my sig for EEC reflash. Any straight through mufflers - MagnaFlow/Borla etc. There are many choices. Basically, avoid chambered for max HP.
I know nothing about tunes, so thanks for telling me that!$500 is ALOT for a basic NA tune...for that much I would buy proracer and do it myself
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