Took some pics of my progress

[351w_swap]

Like my new rims? i they are 5 inch

I know, crappy looking welds but it will be sheeted in so i don't really care.

Pic from the front underside

Pic from the back

I'm an idiot, should have wore sleeves while welding
View attachment 399257

I still haven't figured out how to downsize the images, if anyone has any input, let me know (both on size of photos and opinions on the project).

 

[ShAkE N BaKe!!]

Good progress and very nice work...and yes, sleeves would've helped.

 

[Platonic Solid]

Wow, major project! (apologies in advance for potentially redundant questions) Is that a TIG welder I see there? If yes, how do you like it compared to MIG? What's the project goal? Are you going to strip the body?

I scale pictures before publishing them. Most any photo editing software can do this. I use "Paint Shop Pro" and Photoshop (Paint Shop Pro is much cheaper). Most digital cameras come with some form of editing software.

 

[Stanger007]

I still haven't figured out how to downsize the images, if anyone has any input, let me know (both on size of photos and opinions on the project).

The absolute easiest way to resize images (if you are on a PC) is using Microsoft's image resizer powertoy. And it's free!

Tutorial here: http://www.eazyweb.net/home.php?page_id=92
Download it here (look in right-hand column: http://www.microsoft.com/windowsxp/downloads/powertoys/xppowertoys.mspx

If you are on a Mac let me know - there are some very easy resizers for OSX as well.

Wes

 

[351w_swap]

Platonic Solid, that is a miller tig/arc welder and I love it but compared to mig, i have no clue as I have never learned to mig, I can barely arc. I learned right off to tig and haven't had a desire to arc or mig because I can go fast with the tig and not constantly burn holes with it if the metal isnt too rusty.

Thanks Stanger007 for the link, I appreciate it. I attempted to use paint because that is all I know I have on my computer and it would size the images down but only with a massive white space.

 

[mtaqua]

was that a frame kit? if so where'd you get it. what suspension do you plan on running in the back? plan on using the back seat?

 

[351w_swap]

was that a frame kit? if so where'd you get it. what suspension do you plan on running in the back? plan on using the back seat?

That was not a frame kit, its not done but it is all of my imagination. I got the rear frame rails and the crossmember with the driveshaft drop from autoweldchassis.com It was like 315 bucks shipped to my door. I boxed in the back and built boxes where the torque boxes were for strength. I cut the front frame extensions out and welded my own frame rail connectors in to the hole created as well as to the bottom side of the rear rails. There is well over a foot of contact on both the front and rear rails where the subframe connectors meet. I put that tube from the frame to the rockers in the front to more effectively tie the body to the frame and to be positive that the body wouldnt collapse when I put it up on its dolly.

I will be using a 4 link, most likely of my own design as I can not find anything I like well enough to buy.

I will be using a back seat but it deffinitely wont be comfortable. I have a leather seat out of a 99 cobra and I will be shaving it down so there is only about 2 inches of padding on the bottom (I had to make room for the 4 link somewhere and down wasnt an option.

This was supposed to be just a versailles swap. This is a testament to how small projects always get big.

 

[mtaqua]

thanks, I've been thinking about a mini tub for some time w/ a martz 4 link. but I like what you did. seems like your design will be stronger and possibly allow for a rear seat. I want something between a drag car tubbed and gutted and something somewhat stock looking on the inside (minus a 6 point). please keep posting your progress.

 

[351w_swap]

Well, I ran out of argon for my welder yesterday so I didn't get much done today. I did disassemble most of the dash, level out the car, clean off one of the insides of the rocker panels and take out the brakes and radiator. No pics today but its spring break so hopefully ill have time to get some more stuff done during the week and get up some pics. Thanks for the input

 

[xoxbxfx]

Im sitting here staring at the pictures and trying to figure out what exactly you are going for... I see lots of work but Im just confused. What are the braces that go side to side in the front wheel well for?

Some of the welds look ok but some look like little to no penetration...when you tig a weld, you need it to be VERY clean and keep out the contamination.

Not trying to be rude but you are cutting into everything that supports the car and was designed to transfer load back and forth.

 

[krash kendall]

This was supposed to be just a versailles swap. .

Looks like a case of swallowed the spider to catch the fly, and so on...

Cool looking project. I'd love to have the time and the space!

 

[scottspence9]

well looks like your making progress but im a little confused looking at the picks it looks like the subframe connector is hanging down below the rear rail it would have a lot more ground clearance if it was infront of the crossmember. Also what is the support on top of the rear framerail for? Ive been thinking of doing something similar to what you doing how do the rear framerails look. Are they designed for the mustang or are they universal and how well do they follow the original rail.

 

[351w_swap]

Im sitting here staring at the pictures and trying to figure out what exactly you are going for... I see lots of work but Im just confused. What are the braces that go side to side in the front wheel well for?

Some of the welds look ok but some look like little to no penetration...when you tig a weld, you need it to be VERY clean and keep out the contamination.

Not trying to be rude but you are cutting into everything that supports the car and was designed to transfer load back and forth.

I am going to try to answer all of the questions. To start, I am going for as little torsional deflection as possible without adding a cage (possibly a roll bar but no cage). This is just a street car, not a track car. The goal is to build a frame and tie the body to it, not add to the strength of the body. Those braces in the front wheel well are to tie the body to the frame and add to the overall strength of the car. I know your concerns with the weld but the welds are fine, I have a habit of over-using filler rod to add extra material where the separate pieces come together, there is actually plenty of penetration in them. I wouldn't take your comments as rude, I asked for input and I am getting it, negative feedback gives me thought on ways to improve my build while only praise gives me no idea on how to improve.

well looks like your making progress but im a little confused looking at the picks it looks like the subframe connector is hanging down below the rear rail it would have a lot more ground clearance if it was infront of the crossmember. Also what is the support on top of the rear framerail for? Ive been thinking of doing something similar to what you doing how do the rear framerails look. Are they designed for the mustang or are they universal and how well do they follow the original rail.

The support on the top of the rail is not actually a support but rather a spacer to make room for the front 4 link brackets. The connectors are put on the bottom of the rails because the floor pans will sit on top, they are not designed to be through the floor and I am only losing 3/4 inch in clearance from the front frame rail extensions. The original floor pans are shaped the same way.

The rear frame rails have the same profile but are only bent on one axis, unlike the originals. They are exactly what I wanted because I am doing a 4 link and I am trying to keep my rear seat. They are designed for the mustang, I got them from autoweldchassis.com.

Thanks all and add any more comments and concerns when you get a chance.

 

[65fast]

interested to see it on some corner scales when done