Top End Swap Questions (H/C/I)

definitely agree with the ziploc bag thing, makes sure you keep the bolts in check. I spent about three days on mine, since it was the first time I did it. Of course after you do it once you can do it in less time, but just take your time and make sure you got everything documented as far as where you put things and the order you do it.
 
I took my time and did it over an entire winter since I also only put about 2k miles on mine each year. Not a DD by any means. The picture thing is something else that I did and it really helps for the front end assembly. Especially when supercharged and some of the accessories have been moved from where Chiltons or Hanes says they should be.
 
85_SS, jrichker, thanks for those posts! Everyone else thanks for the words and advice. Just going to have to take my time with this. A couple of Q's...

1) It helps to break any bolt loose that the serpentine belt can help you with...such as the water pump pulley bolts, the crank bolt, etc.

Do you mean loosen the bolt on each pulley?

And regarding the piston to valve clearance check, how would I go about doing this with the engine in the car? Feeler gauge?
If I go with the cam from the TF kit, would this be a problem?

Thanks again guys.
 
85_SS, jrichker, thanks for those posts! Everyone else thanks for the words and advice. Just going to have to take my time with this. A couple of Q's...



Do you mean loosen the bolt on each pulley?

And regarding the piston to valve clearance check, how would I go about doing this with the engine in the car? Feeler gauge?
If I go with the cam from the TF kit, would this be a problem?

Thanks again guys.

leaving the belt on will help hold the pump pulley still while you loosen the bolts, it and the crank pulley are the only ones that need to be unbolted from what they drive, and to get the crank pulley bolts and center harm. balancer bolt, throw your trans in fifth.

as far as ptv, the way ive heard it done is to place a piece of modeling clay in a cylinder, bolt the head on, and just manually turn the crank. the valves will make an impression in the clay thats measurable. havent heard about any problems about using the tfs cam straight up, however i dont know about the cam advance settings.
 
If you have any questions about your H/C/I swap, just PM me.

One thing I found while doing a PI Headswap on a '98 was as I removed each bolt and remove the part, I would screw the bolt lightly back into its original provision. No need for keeping up with all the bolts and I found it even easier than the ziploc method. It really came in handy when you mess with the different bolts/studs around the timing cover and water pump area.