Top End Swap Questions (H/C/I)

kpack5982

Yeah, it was pretty stiff, but eventually a buddy

Jul 13, 2005

325

1

19

Granger, IA

Mar 23, 2009

#21

• Mar 23, 2009

• #21

definitely agree with the ziploc bag thing, makes sure you keep the bolts in check. I spent about three days on mine, since it was the first time I did it. Of course after you do it once you can do it in less time, but just take your time and make sure you got everything documented as far as where you put things and the order you do it.

 

fiveohwblow

Official Member

15 Year Member

Jul 21, 2005

2,169

145

155

Mar 23, 2009

#22

• Mar 23, 2009

• #22

I took my time and did it over an entire winter since I also only put about 2k miles on mine each year. Not a DD by any means. The picture thing is something else that I did and it really helps for the front end assembly. Especially when supercharged and some of the accessories have been moved from where Chiltons or Hanes says they should be.

 

K

KFRG

New Member

Jan 6, 2004

41

0

0

Mar 23, 2009

#23

• Mar 23, 2009

• #23

85_SS, jrichker, thanks for those posts! Everyone else thanks for the words and advice. Just going to have to take my time with this. A couple of Q's...

1) It helps to break any bolt loose that the serpentine belt can help you with...such as the water pump pulley bolts, the crank bolt, etc.

Click to expand...

Do you mean loosen the bolt on each pulley?

And regarding the piston to valve clearance check, how would I go about doing this with the engine in the car? Feeler gauge?
If I go with the cam from the TF kit, would this be a problem?

Thanks again guys.

 

Chuckman

GTFO you fat, heavy bastard

15 Year Member

Oct 21, 2005

1,604

1,002

173

st. louis, mo

Mar 23, 2009

#24

• Mar 23, 2009

• #24

KFRG said:

85_SS, jrichker, thanks for those posts! Everyone else thanks for the words and advice. Just going to have to take my time with this. A couple of Q's...



Do you mean loosen the bolt on each pulley?

And regarding the piston to valve clearance check, how would I go about doing this with the engine in the car? Feeler gauge?
If I go with the cam from the TF kit, would this be a problem?

Thanks again guys.

Click to expand...

leaving the belt on will help hold the pump pulley still while you loosen the bolts, it and the crank pulley are the only ones that need to be unbolted from what they drive, and to get the crank pulley bolts and center harm. balancer bolt, throw your trans in fifth.

as far as ptv, the way ive heard it done is to place a piece of modeling clay in a cylinder, bolt the head on, and just manually turn the crank. the valves will make an impression in the clay thats measurable. havent heard about any problems about using the tfs cam straight up, however i dont know about the cam advance settings.

 

85_SS_302_Coupe

it sucks (I know) to be on the receiving end

15 Year Member

Nov 11, 2003

6,945

1,598

223

Northern KY

Mar 23, 2009

#25

• Mar 23, 2009

• #25

I'd search the tech section for PTV clearance procedures...tons of good info there..more than i can remember/type.

 

5spd GT

"the 5.0 owns all"

Founding Member

Aug 7, 2002

9,516

6

99

Arkansas

Mar 23, 2009

#26

• Mar 23, 2009

• #26

If you have any questions about your H/C/I swap, just PM me.

One thing I found while doing a PI Headswap on a '98 was as I removed each bolt and remove the part, I would screw the bolt lightly back into its original provision. No need for keeping up with all the bolts and I found it even easier than the ziploc method. It really came in handy when you mess with the different bolts/studs around the timing cover and water pump area.