I guess you mean an M112 because I have no clue what an M116 for a car.....but I do know there is a M116 Howitzer.
Do you have all of this done to the Heaton yet? If you have...sorry, if you havent....dont!.
What you are wanting from the Heaton is not likely. There are MANY Cobra owners out there that dont get 20 psi out of their stage 6 Steggy, and they have better airflow than a 2v. I think I saw a 6# lower and 2.76 pulley might get you 18 psi....so you will have to go bigger on the crank, or smaller on the upper. The 2.76 is about the limit because of belt slip becasue the pulley get gets too damn small.
Go search Google....here are some things to try:
steggy stage 6 max boost
steggy stage 6 results
And the list will go on from there. Dont get me wrong, the steggy upgrade is great for Cobra owners who want a little more and dont want to fork out the money for a Whipple or KB. The problem with the Heaton is the rotor design and it is a roots vs a screw blower. Roots typically produce more heat than a screw. Even by adding lighter components and a venom cooler....you are not addressing the REAL problem. IATs! Yeah, the Venom is great if you want to run higher boost (12 to maybe 16 psi range) but over that, I think you are going to be pusing IATs through the roof. The venom cooler is adressing the case heat and heat from the gears, not the air compression heat that eatons (or MOST any roots blowers have).
So, u run a Whipple. How do u like it? Im looking for a decent price on 20psi.
Still didn't answer my question why you've got such a hard on for the Tork Tek? Again, great kit, but you'll make every bit the powre and spend about 1/4 of the money just upgrading your current head unit?
Are you under the impression that the T-Trim won't cut it, or are you just on a Tork Tek craze?
Really? I did not know that. Thanks!Ah, well in that case, stick with some variation of an Eaton. Twin screws don't fair very well with compound boost.
Twin screws create compression within the unit itself. Increasing internal compression by feeding it with a turbo not only superheats the already hot air, but can be really hard on the blowers internal seals.Rea
Really? I did not know that. Thanks!
That the do, but the also produce about the broadest powerband imaginable. All of the top end charge of a big turbo, with none of the bottom end boost lag and all of the off idle torque a PD blower can muster, without running out of breath in the upper ranges.Compound setups generate MUCH heat!
Thanx for the insight. Im looking for 700rwhp with the twin 57s. I can buy the whole blower already ported with light weight rotors, vented shaft, and venom cooler for $1500. Im gonna rock the m112 and compound this bitch! I want at least 530+550 rwhp from the m112 by itself til.I finish the parts gathering for the turbos.It all depends on your goals. If you are looking for 800+ horsepower, and want to do anything other than dynoing it, forget the compound boost. I LOVE compound boost as much as anybody, but at over 800 hp, it simply isn't reliable. There is just too much heat/boost there to safely tune. Even on a great, safe tune (which is pretty hard to do at 800+ hp), one bad batch of gas, and bang. Don't believe me? Search around and see how many big horsepower compound boost Cobras are still around....
Now if you're looking for 750ish rwhp, compound boost is a great option. It's still capable of being tuned to allow some margin of error, and will produce ridiculous amounts of torque low in the rpm band. Personally, I'd port the blower to the max, and pulley it to around 8-10 pounds of boost. Then, throw in a single 67mm billet wheel turbo (or twin 57s if you have the money and want it to spool REALLY quick) at another 10 pounds or so. Can't say for sure on a 2-valve, but that's an easy, relatively safe 700-750 rwhp with a HUGE powerband on a 4-valve.
Yes, as confirmed, you cannot do compound boost with twin screws. The manufactures themselves say not to do it. Only with roots style.
On this whole "boost" thing. Boost is only a measure of restriction. It doesn't (necessarily) mean more horsepower. For example, a fully ported, fully pullied Eaton on a 4-valve Cobra is going to make around 15 psi of boost. Now, go stick that exact blower on NPI 2-valve heads. I'll bet the boost will go to 22+ psi, but want to bet which makes more power? That should be common sense. Bottom line being don't let someone sell something to you based on boost numbers.
The TVS is also a good option. At the power you're looking for, go with the 2300 for sure. They are GREAT blowers that are as efficient (or even slightly more) as twin screw blowers at less than 15 or so psi. Personally, I wouldn't bother spending $1500 on a M112 port job; I'd put that money towards a TVS instead. Heck, a fully ported, pullied 2300 would probably put you close to the goals you are looking for. On an auto car that'll hook, that combo is an EASY 9 second car.
That's going to be a pretty tall order. I wouldn't count on seeing those numbers consistently. Shoot for less, hope for more. You do realize you'll want to slow the blower down once you add the turbo components, right? Of the two power adders, the turbo(s) is/are going to produce the least amount of heat, so I'd make it/them do the heavy lifting and just have the blower set up to carry the load until about 3,000RPM.I want at least 530+550 rwhp from the m112 by itself til.I finish the parts gathering for the turbos.
That's going to be a pretty tall order. I wouldn't count on seeing those numbers consistently. Shoot for less, hope for more. You do realize you'll want to slow the blower down once you add the turbo components, right? Of the two power adders, the turbo(s) is/are going to produce the least amount of heat, so I'd make it/them do the heavy lifting and just have the blower set up to carry the load until about 3,000RPM.
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