Torque convertor w/b303

[ExplodingGopher]

hi guys, im gonna add a new torque converter in the very near future. New flowmaster one chamber delta force mufflers just installed with box tipped side pipes, awesome frikin sound and looks killer. I'll try to get you guys some pics and clips of it. A refresher:

-302 block
-AOD w/ shift kit
-3.73's
-b303 cam
-ported and cleaned stock heads
-stock inducton and intake for now
-dynomax shorty headers
-electric fan
-Offroad H
-no a/c
-19 lb.hr injectors
-75mm MAF
-flowmaster delta force one chambers

dynoed at 303hp at the flywheel before cam swap, not too shabby
haven't dynoed it with new cam yet

The cam makes the most torque at 3300 rpms and i dont want to spend too much money, maybe around $300, I was thinkin of a B&M holeshot 2400 or B&M Torque Master 2400. Is the holeshot one worth the extra $35? Should i go higher to a 3000 or will a 2400 be fine? Its an every other day driver. Will this suck for regular street use witha 2400 stall on takeoffs, does it like just spool up like a manual then go or what? And whats the difference between lockup and non lockup? Thanks.

 

[Euphoric306]

3000 too high, go with 2400 stall. also, itll have a noticeable loss of power until it hits the rpm intended for that converter, then it GOES. i have no idea about lockup, but id like to know as well, so anyone?

 

[rsw007]

3200 atleast stay away from shelf converters have a custom built i have a 3000stall with the stock cam look at my numbers "stock longblock motor"

 

[timewarped1972]

i just asked this question last week.........my thread was titled converter:lock up vs non vs confusion. try searching to see if you can find it.
however, the info i got was that the lock up converters lock up in 3rd and overdrive. the converter, like a stock one, locks in 3rd and od so no slipping, which is what you want for free way driving or around town even in 3rd or od, that way the converter doesnt slip causing extreme tranny heat and killing it. sure it will slip in 1st and 2nd if your not on it but thats no biggie as 3rd gear is near.
the only draw back is you dont get the torque multiplication factor in 3rd, so 3rd would be just as it is on a stocker........but 1st and 2nd when your on the gas hard would really wake up alot.
some people use non lock up i suppose if they drag only or arent worried as much about streetability where if you want it perfectly streetable youd go with a lock up........which if i were getting one thats what i will get as well........1st and 2nd is where mine needs it anyway.........hope this helps......

 

[Michael Yount]

Notwithstanding your dyno numbers (whose engine dyno did you have it on - or are those numbers from a computer program?), that stock intake is strangling your set up - especially with that cam. The stock intake (the lower) is the biggest flow bottleneck on a stock engine. It's the first piece that should be replaced. Before I did anything with a torque converter, I'd get a decent intake on the car, or at least have tmoss port your stock lower.

I'd get on the phone with B&M and ask your questions - they can provide answers to everything you've asked; and they're experts at it, moreso than most of us anyway. Also, if you put a higher stall converter in, I would also add a tranny oil cooler. The extra slippage will heat the tranny fluid more - the cooler will help with that. Mount it down low, so the hot air off the tranny cooler does not re-enter the radiator.

Lastly - not sure where you got your 3300 rpm torque peak number for the B, but I think it's off. I have a VERY mild set up in mine - much milder cam than the B, and my torque peak is 3800 rpm. Other things impact it for sure - cr, heads, intake, etc. -- but I'd be surprised if the torque peak is that low when you're done. I'd expect it to create peak torque no lower than 4000 and as high as 4500. Usually that cam with basically stock engine components is really weak down low - below 2500 rpm. Are you experiencing that?

 

[WantaGT]

i would not recommend the B&M convertors to anyone. let alone any other B&M product. My shift kit isn't much harder than stock and I've heard the B&M converters don't like to hold up for the long haul. I just bought a lock-up TCI Street Fighter. it's not the best converter but it's worlds better than B&M

 

[QDRHRSE]

You'll need an 10" 2800-3500 stall. Edge, Art Carr, TCI, and Continental all make a good converter. If your car sees a lot of normal driving stick with a lock up type. No matter what you do its gonna hurt. A lock up converter is big $'s. If you go non-lock up, you'll need a solid input shaft...it's gonna cost ya no matter what you do. Use the force my brother!

 

[TRANSMAN]

SAVE YOUR SELF HUNDERSS OF DOLLARS AND BUY A DACCO PERFORMER CONVERTOR. DACCO CONVERTORS ARE THE LARGEST T/C MANUFACTOR IN THE WORLD. THEY DON'T PUSH THERE PERFORMANCE T/C A LOT. BUT I HAVE BEEN SELLING THEM FOR 12 YEARS IN ALL TYPE OF CARS AND HORSEPOWER. MY FRIEND RUNS A 975 HP RAIL CAR FOR 2 YEARS WITH A DACCO AND NO PROBLEMS..

 

[ExplodingGopher]

wow screw this then, i'll just save up for a manual then. It will have one in the long run anyways lol. And no im not experiencing any problems with my setup and that cam, its good torque down low but once it hits 2500 it starts pullin and doesn't stop. No kidding. OK gonna try and find a manual then. thanks for the help.

 

[Ryan91Saleen]

i bought a edge 3200 stall for my car and i love it. it was around $500 and some change.