Progress Thread 1986 Ssp Budget Build
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$500 still isn't too bad for a freshened set of heads though. Wouldn't that still be cheaper than if he bought a set if used trick flow and the likes? At least the gt40's would be "new" after all the work is done. I'm pretty sure a cam swap was one of the "needs" he had on his shopping list. But the icing on the cake: He could probably beat a Camry
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$500 still isn't too bad for a freshened set of heads though. Wouldn't that still be cheaper than if he bought a set if used trick flow and the likes? At least the gt40's would be "new" after all the work is done. I'm pretty sure a cam swap was one of the "needs" he had on his shopping list. But the icing on the cake: He could probably beat a Camry
For once, I think I agree with 90. $500 ain't nothing compared to the cost either buying new heads or having used aluminum worked over for install. Plus gaskets, plus exhaust, plus intake, cam... *insert snowball gif here*....
There are some pretty potent P head cars out there. Make the damned thing healthy (cheap and reliable) then boost the chit out of it.
Amen brother!
Yes, you can get it up and running in fine stock condition for 2k then build/beautify from there. First things first though, go through it, open up the engine and see what's what, skip all the engine mods till you have it running, gt40 heads $500, nice used trickflow aluminum $900ish if you look and wait. build the mod parts pile on the side and wait.... odds are if you have a tight budget and are wanting more you'll be selling it to some guy at work for 500 in pieces because you lost interest vs getting it running and enjoyable
Valve jobs, spring kits and surface decking cost the same for any head really. If you can get a set of gt40's for $70, do it. That's only $70 more than redoing your stock E7's.
See if you can get your block and crank checked, then buy one of the cheaper rebuild kits from.Summit. I still think you will have about a grand in the engine by the time you do fluids and all the misc stuff.
Joe
See if you can get your block and crank checked, then buy one of the cheaper rebuild kits from.Summit. I still think you will have about a grand in the engine by the time you do fluids and all the misc stuff.
Joe
I'm routing for this guy.For once, I think I agree with 90. $500 ain't nothing compared to the cost either buying new heads or having used aluminum worked over for install. Plus gaskets, plus exhaust, plus intake, cam... *insert snowball gif here*....
There are some pretty potent P head cars out there. Make the damned thing healthy (cheap and reliable) then boost the chit out of it.
Allegedly...He'll need the extra dough for a proper fuel system.
But really though I was thinking if he didn't have or has stock fox tb and maf he could try and find a used 94/95 tb and maf or get a reman 94/95 maf from the parts store for $75
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- Jan 2, 2015
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I plan on working the heads and matching them to the cam I select.
$500 still isn't too bad for a freshened set of heads though. Wouldn't that still be cheaper than if he bought a set if used trick flow and the likes? At least the gt40's would be "new" after all the work is done. I'm pretty sure a cam swap was one of the "needs" he had on his shopping list. But the icing on the cake: He could probably beat a Camry
I surely hope I can!!
- Jan 2, 2015
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So my plans thus far for the engine is worked GT40s, cam, stock forged pistons, and this rebuild kit http://www.summitracing.com/parts/fem-mk6115a-000/overview/year/1988/make/ford/model/mustang .
Also, I wanted to get some feedback from everyone staying EFI or converting to carb. I currently have a new BBK 70mm throttle body and EGR plate along with a ford racing MAF conversion kit. The question is do I stay EFI or do I sell all those parts and go carb and use the money to help finance the build. The reason I even think about carb is if I get a cam, heads, and possibly a small shot of nitrous won't I still need more mods to the EFI?
Also, I wanted to get some feedback from everyone staying EFI or converting to carb. I currently have a new BBK 70mm throttle body and EGR plate along with a ford racing MAF conversion kit. The question is do I stay EFI or do I sell all those parts and go carb and use the money to help finance the build. The reason I even think about carb is if I get a cam, heads, and possibly a small shot of nitrous won't I still need more mods to the EFI?
Stick w efi if you get the gt40 heads all your lacking is an explorer intake and 24# injectors to have a "cobra" motor.
You're going to need a new fuel pump either way. I would stay efi as long as the wiring is still good. If there is a strong likelihood of electrical/wiring issues then I'd go to a carb. With the car sitting for along time and where it was stored, there is always a chance for problems(mice,corrosion,cracked/missing pieces)You'd have to change the fuel regulator,dizzy,linkage,etc for a conversion. There again I hope nitrous,etc isn't being planned for in that 2000$ budget though. Also you state that you have a MAF conversion. Does that include the computer? Or do you just have the MAF and wiring alone?
- Jan 2, 2015
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It does include a new computer, maf, and wiring. I am concerned about the wiring since it has been sitting for quite sometime and there is plenty of mouse evidence!
My vote (which won't be popular) is to convert to carb. Only because of the dubious nature of said wiring and "cheap" nature of this build. I would always prefer efi for most instances but not here. If it was my car(with your parameters) that's what I'd do. Used intake and rebuilt carb can be had for under 4-500$. All the misc "conversion" parts another few hundred. Sell the efi stuff to increase your "budget",rebuild engine,etc and yeah I think it can be done for 2k
It's an option for someone who plans to wrench himself and not able to troubleshoot/repair wiring through the use of a diagram.
If you're capable of these things then stick with the fuel injection. It's sooooooo much easier to continue to modify and build on down the road.
If you keep the car you'll be converting back when you want to do a power adder anyway.
If you're capable of these things then stick with the fuel injection. It's sooooooo much easier to continue to modify and build on down the road.
If you keep the car you'll be converting back when you want to do a power adder anyway.
