TPS part question

mat82284

Member
Jul 31, 2003
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as I keep preaching: DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET ELECTRONICS FOR FORDS!! they do not work as good as the OEM. if you need a Ford one, we have in stock but my main question is "WHY" do you think you need one? the Modular TPS's used since @1994 have been absolutely "trouble free"
 
RandyStinchcomb said:
as I keep preaching: DO NOT BUY AFTERMARKET ELECTRONICS FOR FORDS!! they do not work as good as the OEM. if you need a Ford one, we have in stock but my main question is "WHY" do you think you need one? the Modular TPS's used since @1994 have been absolutely "trouble free"

Randy, just a question for you pertaining to aftermarket electronics... what sort of problems could arise? I have a Wells IAC, and I think it might be the culprit of some of my part throttle drive quality issues but then again, I don't know much about how that system works.

To the original poster, the orientation of the TPS has a direct effect on its voltage readings. Make sure it is installed in the orientation it came in from the factory.
 
speedfreak98r said:
They are very sensitive..Make sure it is adjusted very carefully.


yeah i tried i cant get it to read anything higher than 1v on wot and it should be near 5 or at 5v from what i hear. Also when i unplug the tps the idle doesnt move or change at all it acts the same way.
 
well to the 1st poster, did you change thrttlbdy's or something?

now to the question of aftermarket vs OEM.
Ford designs a part to work wthin certian parameters, lets use A to D.
now the aftermarlet opens-up these parameters from, lets say A to G so they can get that 1 part to fit mulitple vehicles and now the computer see's different values from the aftermarket part then Ford ECM intended it to see
 
mat82284 said:
The voltage on the tps is way off. It wont go above .17v and when its on wot it only goes to 1.17v max and that all. So somehow it became defective.


Yeah it sounds like you have a RARE failed TPS, just install a new FORD one the same way the old one is in there and DO NOT try to adjust it to .99 at idle like you do on a EEC IV car like the old 5.0's the EEC V system uses the lowest TPS reading the PCM sees after each key cycle to use as the C/T voltage.. anything from .53-1.27 is ok for C/T as long as it's the lowest reading the PCM has seen that key cycle.

only other thing I would check first is to make sure you have the correct REF voltage, if you don't have 5v on the REF then that is your problem not the sensor. BTW it will run the same with the sensor unpluged at idle that is normal.