I'm planning on installing a Trans temp gauge soon. I have ordered a new pan that has a drain plug installed. Is it OK to just replace the drain plug with the temp sensor? And what is the safe operating temp for a C4?
Trannie Temp
- Thread starter jeffnoel
- Start date
jeffnoel said:
All sorts of ways to go with this.
Far as replacing the drain plug with a sensor, that would depend on where the spuds located, and the style of plug. You may not be able to fit an imersion sensor.
If you wanted to stay with an imersion sensor it could be placed anywhere in the pan where the sensor will clear the transmission internals and stay submerged. With a sheet metal pan you'll be limited by clearances needed to weldinthe spud. If it's a cast pan you should be able to drill and tap a hole wherever needed.
Have you looked into a contact sensor? In todays electronic age I find it hard to believe there isn't a sensor designed to be glued to a surface to monitor the surfaces temperature. This coud bed one with an old mechanical thermometer but the 'air side' would have to be insulated to make the bulb temp homoginous.
Far as temp? General rule of thumb is hydraulics should be between 165 and 185. Some say cooler but that robs power, I've seen others say hotter, some say lots hotter, and to that I say fine for you. It's not my transmission and I don't plan on using synthetics or a high stall converter.
Thanks for the offer kcobra302. That's very generous but I have already purchased the tranny temp gauge. I'm going with the Autometer traditional chrome series.
OK here's what I'm going to do. I'll install a sensor in each tranny line going to a SPDT on-on switch then to the gauge. That way with the flip of a switch I'll have both temps. Which will also tell me how efficient my tranny cooling system is.
FYI, My gauge is electric not mechanical, that's the only way this will work.
FYI, My gauge is electric not mechanical, that's the only way this will work.
Blue Thunder
15 Year Member
My sensor is from B&M, and it mounts in the line with compression fittings. (It seeps fluid) I like the idea of mounting the sensor in the pan.
My secondary cooler(I have one of those alum cylindrical ones) doesnt have its own fan yet, so when idling in traffic, the trans temp creeps up near 200, when cruising, it remains at 160.
My secondary cooler(I have one of those alum cylindrical ones) doesnt have its own fan yet, so when idling in traffic, the trans temp creeps up near 200, when cruising, it remains at 160.
Blue Thunder
15 Year Member
LedZ 5.0 said:
It feels similar to a stock converter, unless I'm hammering on it. It only slips up to 5200 or so when I'm holding the brakes and about to launch it in 3rd gear.
(I hold the throttle about halfway down, and the brakes hold until I'm ready to go.)
In 1st or 2nd gear, the motor will overpower the 11" drum brakes, so the converter won't see 5000.
The car feels like I'm riding on a tidal wave, it's very smooth and steady. I enjoy driving the setup on the street, except for the deep gears, which suck on the highway.(7-8mpg??) But I'm about to replace the 4.10s with my original 3.08s. Then there will be a use for 1st and 2nd gear, too.
Blue Thunder
15 Year Member
Wart said:
I *hated* breaking into my nice fabricated all-steel cooling lines.(I never use hose) I knew those stupid ass compression fittings sucked, but I was in a rush to monitor the temp and all, so I went ahead and did it anyway.
I was thinking of machining and drilling a simple alum or steel 3/4" block with the proper threads so I can screw the sensor into the top, and the cooling line fittings into each end, then I'll just bolt the block to the framerail. Nice and neat, and bulletproof.
Similar threads
