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Tranny grinds 3rd and reverse

  • Thread starter Thread starter Shaolin Crane
  • Start date Start date Oct 24, 2008

Shaolin Crane

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Oct 24, 2008
#1
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #1
well since the car is starting to take some shape and i can finally drive it im trying to address some of the issues with the tranny, first when im driving the car 3rd gear will grind if i press the clutch all the way to the floor, but wont grind if its only halfway put in, then reverses grind no matter what everytime, is it the clutch cable? is clutch goin to crap? any help is appreciated
 

strtrcr50

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Previously from Dirty Jerzey exit 7a
Oct 24, 2008
#2
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #2
For reverse, put it in first gear then into reverse. I don't think reverse is syncronized in a t5. Do you have the factory clutch setup or have you changed to an aftermarket quadrant/cable assy?
 

Shaolin Crane

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#3
  • Oct 24, 2008
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no everything is stock so far eventually i want to upgrade to a t56 but for now i want to get this one working
 

strtrcr50

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Previously from Dirty Jerzey exit 7a
Oct 24, 2008
#4
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #4
Try changing the fluid. It takes automatic trans fluid. Dextron to be specific.
 

Shaolin Crane

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  • Oct 24, 2008
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will that it self cure the problem, if not is there any way to adjust it
 

NIKwoaC

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Oct 24, 2008
#6
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #6
strtrcr50 said:
For reverse, put it in first gear then into reverse. I don't think reverse is syncronized in a t5. Do you have the factory clutch setup or have you changed to an aftermarket quadrant/cable assy?
Click to expand...

+1, reverse is not syncronized, its just clashing the dog teeth together until they engage. Get used to the sound. You just have to jam it hard when you shift into reverse, any attempt to be gentle is futile and you'll probably hear grinding. Waiting until you come to a complete stop before shifting into reverse helps, too.

The third gear issue sounds fishy. Your cable could need replacement or adjusting. A test you can do is slowly letting the clutch out and see how far your foot is from the floor before the car starts creeping forward. It should be around 2-2.5"

If you still have all the factory parts, the cable is easy to adjust. Pull up on the pedal until you hear a click, then let it fall back down to rest. It should have self adjusted. If that doesn't help, it either can't be adjusted any more, or you have other problems.

Lastly, what are you doing shifting with the clutch pedal only half way in?! Foot to the floor every time, my friend. You want to make sure the clutch has completely released before you tag the next gear.
 

Shaolin Crane

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#7
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #7
i hear a click in the pedal everytime i push it even when im driving, and the only reason i stated about not pushing it in all the way, and it wasnt half way it was like a have inch shallower than normal, and i only did it as a test to see if it was me or not, but when i drive i slam that pedal all the way to the floor
 

Shaolin Crane

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#8
  • Oct 24, 2008
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ok i just went out to see how much the clutch moves before the car does and its only about an inch of movement then the car start to creep.
 

strtrcr50

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Previously from Dirty Jerzey exit 7a
Oct 24, 2008
#9
  • Oct 24, 2008
  • #9
It's only 3rd gear, right? I'd change the fluid. I had great luck with BG syncroshift when I worked on DSMs. I also had good luck with amsoil. AMSOIL - Synthetic Manual Synchromesh Transmission Fluid (MTF) APPLICATIONS
Recommended for automotive and light truck applications that require synchromesh transmission fluid. Applications include manual transmissions and transaxles such as New Venture NV T350, NV 1500, NV 2550, NV 3500, NV 3550, NV 5600, and Tremec T4, T5, T18, T56, T176, TKO500, TKO600, TR 3450 and TR 3550. Replaces MTF-94 fluid for Land Rover, MG, and Mini Cooper.. Last but not least, does the car have an aftermarket shifter? You could be adjusted wrong on the bolt closest to the radio.
 

Shaolin Crane

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as far as i know everything is stock
 

7upstang91

10 Year Member
May 30, 2008
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Oct 26, 2008
#11
  • Oct 26, 2008
  • #11
Its time for the tranny to be rebuilt. Mine would grind in second gear, so i had to let it drop to idle before i shifted. Runs great after the rebuild.
 

SVT32VDOHC

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#12
  • Oct 26, 2008
  • #12
Get a synchro kit and you'll be good.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
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Oct 26, 2008
#13
  • Oct 26, 2008
  • #13
Technically all you need is the blocker ring for 3rd gear. If the 3rd speed gear and 3-4 synchro look good after inspection, you can change the $30 blocker and call it a fix.

As for reverse, it's not synchrnized but it stil shouldn't grind that much. There is a idler gear in the T-5 that loves to round over. Usually replacing it can make 3rd a little more reliable, but it's one of those things where you need to open the trans and inspect. The idler gear can be found new for $40 on ebay
 

Shaolin Crane

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#14
  • Oct 27, 2008
  • #14
if im going through the pain of dropping the tranny and opening it up then im just gonna replace it so i guess im just gonna run this trans until it ruined
 

7upstang91

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#15
  • Oct 27, 2008
  • #15
it cost me about $500 to have mine tremec t5 rebuilt.
 

Shaolin Crane

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#16
  • Oct 28, 2008
  • #16
yeah i know it wont cost much but i might as well upgrade while its out of the car
 
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