tranny squealing while in gear

xen0n

New Member
Apr 19, 2007
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i have a clutch with about 10K miles on it. recently, it's starting squealing/chirping (softly) while in gear. when i push the clutch in, the noise stops. i tried tightening the firewall adjuster (in the engine compartment,) but that didn't help. any ideas? i don't drive the car hard, and i can't imagine the clutch is wearing out. it almost sounds like the noise when one of those stupid clips on the brake calipers falls out. (i checked - they're all there.) any ideas?
 
ok so i figured it out. when the car is in gear, i hear the chirp/squeal. when i touch the clutch and take out the slack in the linkage, it stops. so, is the cable too loose or too tight?
 
what's the diagnosis procedure? i don't want a new one if mine's fine. i'll live with the noise if it still works.

i only have 10K on the setup, which is a brand new tranny, clutch, etc.
 
i talked to my guys at mustang specialties in pompano beach. something got warped during a huge rainstorm. the tranny was super hot at that time, and water found its way into the clutch area. i'm just hoping it'll hold together till i can get back down there for the fix. we think it's the fork, TOB or clutch.
 
i talked to my guys at mustang specialties in pompano beach. something got warped during a huge rainstorm. the tranny was super hot at that time, and water found its way into the clutch area. i'm just hoping it'll hold together till i can get back down there for the fix. we think it's the fork, TOB or clutch.

:shock:
friggin shops... some times they can be ur best friend and some times they can give u a giant head ache
 
what's the diagnosis procedure? i don't want a new one if mine's fine. i'll live with the noise if it still works.

i only have 10K on the setup, which is a brand new tranny, clutch, etc.

the diagnosis is simple. If it squeals it is bad. You don't want a lot of pressure on the TOB all the time, so tightening up the cable is not a good idea. If you are not careful, you will invite clutch slipping to boot...

Unfortunately it is a PITA to replace since the transmission has to come down. If you have a shop do it, it is worth while to go ahead and replace the clutch/pressure plate and rear main seal at the same time.
 
Good call on the rear main seal. Its always a good idea to take car of it while you are there. The seal is like 25 bux at most. With only 10,000 miles on the clutch and the clutch itself is working fine, why would you replace it anyways ? That seems like a waste of money.

About tensioning the TO bearing, you are absolutely right, if you preload the bearing it will be slightly releasing the clutch all the time and will burn a good clutch out much soon. If the preload is severe enough you can burn out a clutch in less then 20 miles.
 
Good call on the rear main seal. Its always a good idea to take car of it while you are there. The seal is like 25 bux at most. With only 10,000 miles on the clutch and the clutch itself is working fine, why would you replace it anyways ? That seems like a waste of money.

About tensioning the TO bearing, you are absolutely right, if you preload the bearing it will be slightly releasing the clutch all the time and will burn a good clutch out much soon. If the preload is severe enough you can burn out a clutch in less then 20 miles.

My thinking goes like this. A good clutch is under 300 bucks. To pull the transmission is a 3-4 hour job at most shops, which turns into 500-600 bucks, at least. If the clutch is 1/2 gone, then you are avoiding another 500-600 bill when it wears out completely. If it is brand new, I wouldn't replace it of course. But after the right kind of 10K miles (trips to the strip, etc) then replacing it at 10K might be reasonable.