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tranny squealing while in gear

  • Thread starter Thread starter xen0n
  • Start date Start date Sep 17, 2007
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xen0n

New Member
Apr 19, 2007
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Sep 17, 2007
#1
  • Sep 17, 2007
  • #1
i have a clutch with about 10K miles on it. recently, it's starting squealing/chirping (softly) while in gear. when i push the clutch in, the noise stops. i tried tightening the firewall adjuster (in the engine compartment,) but that didn't help. any ideas? i don't drive the car hard, and i can't imagine the clutch is wearing out. it almost sounds like the noise when one of those stupid clips on the brake calipers falls out. (i checked - they're all there.) any ideas?
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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Sep 18, 2007
#2
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #2
Do you hear it when you are idling in neutral ? If you barely press on the clutch pedal does it go away ? If so you have a bad throw out bearing.
 
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xen0n

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Apr 19, 2007
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Sep 18, 2007
#3
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #3
no. but that was my original concern. i've heard that once before when my clutch cable was loose.

currently, it only happens when i'm in gear.
 
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RoskiStang

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Sep 12, 2007
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Alabama
Sep 18, 2007
#4
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #4
i am a novice at this stuff but i know that u are supposed to let a clutch break in before driving it hard... did u? seems like if its when its in gear and under load it would have to be the clutch
 
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xen0n

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Apr 19, 2007
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Sep 18, 2007
#5
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #5
ok so i figured it out. when the car is in gear, i hear the chirp/squeal. when i touch the clutch and take out the slack in the linkage, it stops. so, is the cable too loose or too tight?
 
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RoskiStang

New Member
Sep 12, 2007
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Sep 18, 2007
#6
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #6
sounds like throw out bearing to me
 

Tally_4.6

Member
Feb 26, 2006
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Orlando
Sep 18, 2007
#7
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #7
Sounds like the TOB, generally in mustangs its a problem. It may or may not be bad, but mine makes some noise and it's not bad.
 
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xen0n

New Member
Apr 19, 2007
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Sep 18, 2007
#8
  • Sep 18, 2007
  • #8
what's the diagnosis procedure? i don't want a new one if mine's fine. i'll live with the noise if it still works.

i only have 10K on the setup, which is a brand new tranny, clutch, etc.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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#9
  • Sep 19, 2007
  • #9
Are you 100% sure it does NOT do it in neutral ?
 
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xen0n

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Apr 19, 2007
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Sep 19, 2007
#10
  • Sep 19, 2007
  • #10
i talked to my guys at mustang specialties in pompano beach. something got warped during a huge rainstorm. the tranny was super hot at that time, and water found its way into the clutch area. i'm just hoping it'll hold together till i can get back down there for the fix. we think it's the fork, TOB or clutch.
 
R

RoskiStang

New Member
Sep 12, 2007
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Alabama
Sep 19, 2007
#11
  • Sep 19, 2007
  • #11
xen0n said:
i talked to my guys at mustang specialties in pompano beach. something got warped during a huge rainstorm. the tranny was super hot at that time, and water found its way into the clutch area. i'm just hoping it'll hold together till i can get back down there for the fix. we think it's the fork, TOB or clutch.
Click to expand...


friggin shops... some times they can be ur best friend and some times they can give u a giant head ache
 
B

BobHyatt

New Member
Aug 7, 2007
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Sep 21, 2007
#12
  • Sep 21, 2007
  • #12
xen0n said:
what's the diagnosis procedure? i don't want a new one if mine's fine. i'll live with the noise if it still works.

i only have 10K on the setup, which is a brand new tranny, clutch, etc.
Click to expand...

the diagnosis is simple. If it squeals it is bad. You don't want a lot of pressure on the TOB all the time, so tightening up the cable is not a good idea. If you are not careful, you will invite clutch slipping to boot...

Unfortunately it is a PITA to replace since the transmission has to come down. If you have a shop do it, it is worth while to go ahead and replace the clutch/pressure plate and rear main seal at the same time.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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Sep 21, 2007
#13
  • Sep 21, 2007
  • #13
Good call on the rear main seal. Its always a good idea to take car of it while you are there. The seal is like 25 bux at most. With only 10,000 miles on the clutch and the clutch itself is working fine, why would you replace it anyways ? That seems like a waste of money.

About tensioning the TO bearing, you are absolutely right, if you preload the bearing it will be slightly releasing the clutch all the time and will burn a good clutch out much soon. If the preload is severe enough you can burn out a clutch in less then 20 miles.
 
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BobHyatt

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Aug 7, 2007
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Sep 21, 2007
#14
  • Sep 21, 2007
  • #14
Rusty67 said:
Good call on the rear main seal. Its always a good idea to take car of it while you are there. The seal is like 25 bux at most. With only 10,000 miles on the clutch and the clutch itself is working fine, why would you replace it anyways ? That seems like a waste of money.

About tensioning the TO bearing, you are absolutely right, if you preload the bearing it will be slightly releasing the clutch all the time and will burn a good clutch out much soon. If the preload is severe enough you can burn out a clutch in less then 20 miles.
Click to expand...

My thinking goes like this. A good clutch is under 300 bucks. To pull the transmission is a 3-4 hour job at most shops, which turns into 500-600 bucks, at least. If the clutch is 1/2 gone, then you are avoiding another 500-600 bill when it wears out completely. If it is brand new, I wouldn't replace it of course. But after the right kind of 10K miles (trips to the strip, etc) then replacing it at 10K might be reasonable.
 

Rusty67

20+ Year Stangneter
Dec 3, 2002
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Sep 21, 2007
#15
  • Sep 21, 2007
  • #15
I agree with you for the most part. I'm just not convinced at this point that his TO bearing is causing the problem.
 
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