Transmission problem

Never had to deal with an automatic trans on my mustangs.

I had a similiar problem with my Dodge Ram truck - I bought the truck with a bad rod knock - rebuilt the motor and had the trans freshened up. all worked great - except I did get some grinding noise like yours from time to time - mostly when i put it in gear. Shimmed out the starter and went away for a bit then came back. What it was for me was the one thing i didn't replace - the flexplate - it was moving forward and making contact with the starter when running - cleared fine when I was turning it over by hand - drove me nuts. I eventually broke the flexplate and replaced with a new one and the problem went away.

I suspect it's a similiar issue - the converter might be moving the gears and making contact - flywheel might be warped too. things to check.

That would be a good start by painting and see where it's hitting. Something could have gotten bent on the removal / installation - a friend did that while trying to get the trans lined up the weight of the bellhousing rested on the plate and bent it. Good luck

I have never had to shim a Ford starter.

It sounds like something is not seated all the way, almost like the tranny has not slid all the way in. But then you should not have been able to bolt the tranny to the block if it wasnt lined up.

If the starter gear is only hitting the edge of the teeth then that furthers my suspicion that the tranny is not seated properly.

I agree at this point best bet is to apply some kind of material on flexplate teeth and turn over to see where the starter teeth are contacting.

By chance you dont have a rear main seal leaking do you?

I had a problem on a 79 Capri where rear main was leaking and soaking down starter gears and causing the gears to slip and slam into next tooth. Went through a few starters and flexplates before I figured out what was wrong.

If by chance that is whats wrong a 92 2.3L should have a one piece rear main seal that can be replaced once tranny and flexplate are pulled.

Mine is a 89 convertible with 2.3L that was converted to 5 speed from a 87 Turbo Coupe. My car has a open 7.5" with 3.73 gears and it scoots pretty good at low speed for having about 125hp.

Do yourself a favor and get a aluminum clutch quadrant. Mine originally had the stock Ford plastic abomination and I now have a BBK aluminum quadrant and firewall adjuster. Never had a problem since.

I did have 17X9 wheels with P245/45-17's and switched to P225/60-15's on 10 holes for reduced rolling resistance. IMHO car still handles really well even with 15's.

Mods on mine so far...

Exhaust got scrubbed off on a $%%^&*ing speed bump even though I was doing 5mph. Now has a Thrush glasspack with side exit in front of passenger rear tire. The Glasspack was $25, turbo muffler was $69.

K&N airfilter, pulled air silencer cone out of the air tube between airbox and throttle body. Intend to cut out side of airbox out and duct it to the inner fender to pull air from there. If your Stang is a 92 it should be mass air and already pulls from there.

I intend to install 19lb/hr injectors since engine is running a bit lean after opened up exhaust and intake.

Im hoping to grab a mass air system off a JY Mustang this summer.

85L6Coupe said:

My car has a open 7.5" with 3.73 gears and it scoots pretty good at low speed for having about 125hp
.

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I dropped in the 8.8 out of a 5 speed GT and even with the 2.71 gear it moves pretty good - I love the posi. I get my best highway mileage running 75 mph in 4th, unless I want to cruise at 100, then the overdrive is really nice.

85L6Coupe said:

I intend to install 19lb/hr injectors since engine is running a bit lean after opened up exhaust and intake. .

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Let me know how that works - I just bumped mine up to 17lb/hr injectors - runs real nice - the air/fuel guage definitely goes to the rich side and the computer is almost figured out the new settings - but this is day #3 on the injectors - idles much better and runs alot better. I got the injectors out of a mid 90's buick with a 3.1 motor.

Starter plate

I had this problem and resolved it when I swapped the automatic to a 5-speed. The previous owner hit something that bent the starter plate where it protrudes near the lower starter bolt.

The starter plate was warped and needed to be gently hammered flat again. Did your notice if your starter plate rocked on the floor of the garage or laid nice and flat? If it rocked or bowed upward, like mine, it was warped and your starter is being pulled towards the flywheel as a result.