transmission trouble

ooraceredgt · Sep 3, 2010

just got my car back from the engine builder and shop that put the new engine in. before i took the engine out of it, the transmission worked fine. now once i got the car running, the car won't move. i tried 1st, 2nd and reverse gear. their isn't any grinding of the gears when i engage them but once i start releasing the clutch, the car bogs and won't move. i know the car will roll because we rolled it on and off of the trailer so the brakes are not the culprit. if anyone could help i would appreciate it.

wmburns · Sep 3, 2010

There has to be more than one gear actually engaged.

To prove it, jack up the rear of the car on jack stands. Put the trans in neutral. Start the engine and engage the clutch. Do the rear wheels move? How fast they move may give an indication of which gear is actually engaged.

Arnolds97 · Sep 5, 2010

Clutch installed wrong.

Put it back on the trailer and tell them to fix it. Sounds like they did not install the clutch right? That or while "testing" it they screw up the trans.

ooraceredgt · Sep 5, 2010

yea i would love to put it back on the trailer and take it back to them but his shop is 200 miles away and i don't have the time to take it back. it sucks.

ooraceredgt · Sep 19, 2010

well fortunately for me I don't beleive my transmission is screwed. i'm almost positive that the reason my car won't move when it is running is because the vacuum lines are all messed up causing the anti lock brakes to lock up. i jacked the rear of the car up and rolled the rear tires in neutral without the engine running. i start the car while the rear is jacked up and still in neutral and the rear tires won't move. the brake pedal goes all the way to the floor when the car is running. now i just need to figure out how to route all the vacuum hoses. probably going to be a little complicated having a BAP/BAS and supercharger.

wmburns · Sep 19, 2010

Isn't your car a 2000? Doesn't it have a hydro-boost power brake assist? Is it possible the Power steering lines installed backwards on the hydro-boost?

Try releasing tension on the front acc belt drivng the power steering pump. This will disable the PS pump for a quick test. Does this stop the breaks from engaging?

Check to see if the brake pedal is partially depressed or the hydro-boost module is not installed correctly on the firewall. Was any work done on the brakes?

Do just the rear brakes lock or all 4?

Let's also confirm this problem is not the ABS brakes (or traction control). Remove fuse F2.29 in the CJB. This should disable the ABS module and turn on the ABS dash warning light. Does this allow the car to be moved?

trinity_gt · Sep 19, 2010

ooraceredgt said:
well fortunately for me I don't beleive my transmission is screwed. i'm almost positive that the reason my car won't move when it is running is because the vacuum lines are all messed up causing the anti lock brakes to lock up.

Engine vacuum has nothing to do with the ABS. Power assist for the brakes comes from the power steering hydraulic pump.

If the ABS is "engaging" you'd hear the solenoids going. Are they?

The fact that you can select neutral and roll the car is encouraging vis the transmission.

Your brakes do sound messed up but it's not because of vacuum lines.

ooraceredgt · Sep 19, 2010

wmburns said:
Isn't your car a 2000? Doesn't it have a hydro-boost power brake assist? Is it possible the Power steering lines installed backwards on the hydro-boost?

Try releasing tension on the front acc belt drivng the power steering pump. This will disable the PS pump for a quick test. Does this stop the breaks from engaging?

Check to see if the brake pedal is partially depressed or the hydro-boost module is not installed correctly on the firewall. Was any work done on the brakes?

Do just the rear brakes lock or all 4?

Let's also confirm this problem is not the ABS brakes (or traction control). Remove fuse F2.29 in the CJB. This should disable the ABS module and turn on the ABS dash warning light. Does this allow the car to be moved?

the mechanic did have to remove the brake booster and master cylinder to get the engine in and out. i will try ps pump and the fuse and get back to you guys. thank you!

ooraceredgt · Sep 19, 2010

since i can't find my owner's manual or repair manual for the fuse location i went ahead and did the ps pump. from what i could see the brakes didn't go to the floor once i started the car up with the ps pump disabled. i didn't hear the ABS solenoids either. if the lines are wrong, what steps are needed to correct the problem?

wmburns · Sep 19, 2010

Ok here's the deal. I took some pictures of my 2000 GT. Just from looking, it may be difficult to reverse the lines at the hydro-boost. However, I do not know about the other ends.

Take a look at your car and see if it is possible to reverse the PS lines. Compare the PS lines to the diagram from the Ford service CD.

I am not able to post pics because my space is all used up. PM your email and I can send these via email.

However, I think it is more likely that the brake pedal push rod is not fully seated in the master cylinder. This is causing the MC to be partially engaged.

Do the brakes appear to work through their travel? In other words if you push the pedal to the floor, does it feel OK and does it go to the floor? (motor off)?

Is the pedal soft or hard? If soft, this could indicate air in the lines. Perhaps a master cylinder and wheel cylinder bleed could fix it up.

ooraceredgt · Sep 19, 2010

the brake pedal is hard and barely moves while the engine is off.

wmburns · Sep 19, 2010

Both of my Mustangs if you push on the pedal with the motor off, the pedal travels about 1-2" before bottoming out. About the limit of travel with a hard stop.

From your reply, it seems like the pedal travel is reduced. To me that would indicate the master cylinder is partially/fully engaged already.

FWIIW, I looked over my Mustangs and I have doubts it is possible to accidentally connect the PS lines backwards. The exception would be at the hydro-boost itself. However, the arrangement of the hard lines will look completely wrong and should be obvious as can be.

Consider loosing the bolts holding the MC to the hydro-boost and allowing the MC to pull away a little from the hydro-boost. See if this stops the brake activation. If it does, this proves the diagnosis.

ooraceredgt · Sep 19, 2010

i dont know if i will be able to do that today. i will more than likely have to do it next weekend but i will let you know what i find

hotcobra03 · Oct 12, 2010

problem

i sent pm.i assumed you have a vacuum booster,,found your thread so heres for booster...

Operation, Diagnosis and Repair of HYDRO-BOOST

hotcobra03 · Oct 12, 2010

Slow or incomplete pedal return:
1. Run pump at fast idle.
2. Pull the brake pedal rearward with approximately 10 lbs. force and release. Measure the distance to the floorboard.
3. Make 100-lb. brake application. Release brake pedal and measure distance to floorboard. The brake pedal should return to its normal position (step 2). If measurements are the same, go to step 5.
4. If the brake pedal does not return properly, check the pedal to be sure it is operating freely. Correct any sticking or binding as necessary.
5. If brakes are self applying and pedal is free, check for obstruction in the return line or a kinked connection between hydo-boost and pump reservoir. If obstruction or kink is found, go to step 6, otherwise go to step 7.
6. Remove obstruction or replace line as required. If condition remains, check for a damaged reaction end. If damaged the hydo-boost should be replaced or repaired.
7. If brake pedal is free of any binding conditions and return line is free of obstructions, remove the master cylinder cover.
8. Observe the brake fluid in the reservoir while rapidly depressing the brake pedal one inch.
9. Fluid surface should have some movement or spout in the forward reservoir section. Minor

spouting may occur in the rearward reservoir. If no movement or spouting of fluid occurs in forward reservoir, the hydro-boost unit is defective and must be replaced or repaired

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