Transmissions, self install or not.

If you have a jack and some tie downs you can install one in the drive way (car on Jackstands) over the weekend. But I don't recommend it. Have a buddy help or better yet, find someone that will let you use a lift.

When you switch, you'll need a new Shifter also. And I think you need to move the crossmember...but I don't remember exactly.

I put in a new Tremec in my mustang, not that bad! Just have an alignment tool for the clutch. My vote is DIY.

Another thing you will need is an adjustable crossmemember. You will probably want to weld it to the correct size for the tranny, which for me turned out to be as big as the crossmember would go. I cant really recall anything else i NEEDED for the swap, except i had to modify the exhaust hangers to fit the new crossmember, anyone have comments on how they did their exhaust with the Tremec?

You can do it ...... not bad at all.

I did it, like all the things I have done to my car, in my driveway. My rock driveway. lol, we dont have a garage yet. I say BAH on a lift! j/k, if you know someone thats seriously great.
But we have been able to do everything to my car on rocks with jacks...

WAITTTT

Before you go out and blow $70 on a brand new crossmember. and probably $20 on welding.

You dont HAVE to buy a new crossmember.
if yours is in decent shape, not all rusty.. etc. you can modify yours to fit the tko 600, i did it to mine about a month ago. so trust me on this

All you have to do, is grind the slots back farther. maybe 1/2" or a little more.
Itll only take maybe 30 minutes to an hour, depending on the tools you use, i used a reemer and did it by hand.

Also, while youre at it. id recommend buying all new bushings.
Polyurothane crossmember bushings, and a poly tranny mount. not that expensive, and youll never have to go back and worry about it.
Inspect your clutch fork, and buy a new throwout bearing, maybe new pilot bearing and rear main seal.


Although, Working on your back with maybe 1 foot of clearance for me was very very hard. but my driveway was slanted, so i was afraid to raise my jackstands up any higher.

i just swapped my auto for a tko last week no problems.
i have only owned this mustang since last january and it is my first one. all i needed was a buddy to help me lift the tko into place, don't forget that the tko's weight is much more than the t-5's.

i am not extremely nolligable with cars, but i know my way around them.
if i can you can
unless you are "SPECIAL"

The stock length driveshaft will work with no changes.

Depending on what model TKO you get, you can use the stock clutch disk and driveshaft yoke. See http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English/products/TKO.asp for more information.

You will definitely need a new bellhousing.

DIY transmission swap:

Labor time: by yourself, first time - 4-6 hours from the time the car gets up on jackstands until the trans sits on the ground & the bellhousing is off. You'll have about the same amount of time to get it reassembled & back in service.

You need both metric & US tools to do the job, the body bolts are metric & the trans mount & engine bolts are US.

The rear driveshaft bolts are 12MM, 12 point and require a first class box end wrench (ring spanner if you are English or Canadian) to remove them. Don't get cheap here or you will regret it. I set the emergency brake and apply a foot to loosen the bolts. Notice the paint marks on the driveshaft & rear end flange: align them the same way they came off. If there aren't any marks, get out your paint spray can & make your own marks.

Be sure to drain the fluid before you remove the trans or you will get to wear it. The best time to do this is before you remove the driveshaft. Have a catch pan in place to get the fluid that comes out of the trans when you pull the driveshaft yoke out. T5's take a good grade of ATF, Tremec 3550 & TKO use 2 3/4 quarts GM Syncromesh at $9+ a quart.

The speedo cable pulls straight out of the adapter, don't pull the clip out of the adapter. It re-installs the same way: push hard on the cable. You can unbolt the speedo cable adapter and pull it out of the trans: this may be the easiest way. Then you don't have to worry about pulling the cable apart. I have had the cable housing separate from the metal sleeve when I it pulled it out. If you do unbolt the adapter, then cover it with a plastic zip bag.

The H pipe will have to come off and the studs are likely to be very rusty. Soak them with PB Blaster or WD 40 overnight if possible. When you re-assemble the H pipe & exhaust bolts, use lots of antiseize. That way they will be easy to remove next time (yes, there will be a next time!). Use care in disconnecting the O2 sensor wiring that you don't damage the clips that help hold the connector halves together. Be sure to tie wrap (zip tie) the wires out of the way when you re-assemble them.

Identify & mark the neutral safety switch & backup light switch wiring. The connectors are different, but it helps you to get them back on it the right places.

Look at the rubber on the rear trans mount and replace the mount if it is oil soaked or deteriorated. The same goes for the rubber crossmember bushings.

If you have a T5, you may be able to remove the trans & re-install it if you can bench press the 75 lbs that it weighs. If 75 lbs is too heavy, don't hurt yourself, get a trans jack. If your car has a Tremec 3550 or TKO, you will need a helper or trans jack because it weighs 100 + lbs. I built a trans jack from 2x2 angle iron, some swivel casters, 2x4's, 2x6's and a cheap floor jack. PM me if you are interested & I will send you the photos (8 MB) with the write up.

While you are at it, replace the stock cable & quadrant if it is still present. When you buy the cable & quadrant and maybe a firewall adjuster, make sure they are all the same make. That way you have some assurance that they work together. I have a FMS quadrant & cable, & have had no problems with it. The FMS adjustable cable doesn't stretch and operates smoothly. The only thing is that you have to get under the car to make any adjustments. A firewall adjuster would help here to make the fine adjustment.

5SpGT has a very good write up too. I highly recommend that you read his tech note as well.

depends how much mechanical knowledge....if you have the competence to do it, then you can do it in a weekend or a few hours...if you're asking about it and unsure, then you mite be better off paying someone to do it.

do it urself!!!! One weekend of work will save u some money. No telling what shops around there will charge for that(i would look into that)!!!!!

Do it.

Dbeck002 said:

I have enough mechanical knowledge to pull this off. Take a peek at my site!



And Jrichker thanks for all that useful info!! I think I might end up doing it, it doesnt sound as bad as a heads/cam swap. I heard from some people that getting the tranny under the car and lifted into position was the hardest part. I should plan this out better before I execute the project.




One more thing, what do i need to do to my tranny crossmember to get it to work? I have an aftermarket Prothane tranny mount that i installed a little while ago, can i still use that mount too?

Click to expand...

if you can do heads/cam/intake then tranny is a joke

did my own tranny last winter with no life...not a prob. and i only had 1 helper...had it in n out in 1 day

i did an aode to tko-500 in about a day and a half with beer and working slow 1 helper.

good luck

Me and a buddy changed a clutch (same job pretty much) in about 5 hours. The hardest part by FAR is lifting the tranny up in place. I can bench press way more than what a T-5 weighs, but lifting it up in to a tranny tunnel in an awkward position while somebody bolts it up is a totally different story. Get a helper AND a jack for that part if possible