Trouble With Team Z Front Suspension And Power Steering Rack

Fivepointo92gt

New Member
Jan 8, 2010
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I have a 92 mustang gt and recently bought the Team Z front k member kit with coilovers. While I was at it, I swapped to 95 gt front spindles so I can complete the front suspension and do the 5 lug conversion with the 95 cobra wheels. I already had a remanufactured power steering rack for the foxbody from CJponyparts part#RPK6 which is for 1985-1993 V8 mustangs. I also have the Maximum Motorsports steering shaft for 79-93 mustangs installed.

My problem is my turning radius. I took the old outer tie rods of my rack and counted the turns, 32. So I put them on the new rack, 32 turns. My steering radius is awful! I bet my wheels only turn about 1/3 or what they should. I know the factory wheels were 8 inch wide and now the cobra r wheels are 9 inch wide. I read that the sn95 rack would be an upgrade but I already have this rack and the steering shaft, I'd hate to drop more money into rebuying parts and not utilize what I already have. Should I use sn95 inner tie rods but I read that they're longer. Any help would be appreciated guys.
 
Here's a quick pic
 

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The person that I think that can answer your question best (with all of the variables you have) is @Mustang5L5

He not only understands what combos work but also knows why they work or don't work in most cases.

That tag sends him an alert to take a look when he logs in.
 
Put the front end up on jackstands; Make sure that you have the jackstands as close to the wheel as possible without them rubbing. Turn the steering wheel as far as it will go. Then get under the car and see what is limiting the travel. If the rims are the problem, they will hit the lower control arm and may even scrape some of the metal off the inside of the rim.

When you use the 95 spindles, you will have to adjust the toe-in because they are different from the stock spindles. That may cause the rims to scrape when you turn the steering wheel as far as it will go.

To change the tie rod ends, do them one at a time. Loosen the jam nut 1/4 turn, then unscrew the tie rod end from the rack. Turn the jam nut back 1/4 turn to return it to its original position. With the tie rod end removed, use a machinist square to measure the distance between the end of the threaded rod and the jam nut. Sit the bottom of the square against the end of the threaded rod, and the end of the blade of the square against the jam nut. Duplicate the measurement on the new rack and then install the tie rod end and tighten the jam nut. Then do the other side: the front end will need aligning, but the toe in will be close enough to the setting of the original rack to drive to the alignment shop.. See below for what a machinist square looks like.

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jrichker said everything I'd say.

First thing I'd check is are you limited by the wheels contacting something, or is the rack the limiting item?

Loosen one tie rod from the spindle. Turn to full lock and then unattach the tie rod end and see if the wheel has more distance it could travel.