Trunk battery + starter selonoid q's

[TruckeeFastback]

I brought my truckup to my sisters so now I *have* to get the Mustang going if I want to drive.

I relocated the battery with the Morroso kit to the trunk, on hte passenger side, centered on the frame rail. Should I be concerned about grounding on the frame so close to the gas tank? Where would you ground?

The car didn't have a starter selonoid in it when I bought it and the PO noted that I would need to get one. I got one, but didn't realize that I could get a starter with one integrated. Now, the starter is fried. I haven't yet mounted the selonoid in the trunk. Any reason I shouldn't just get a starter with the selonoid included?

Thanks

 

[nds03]

i dont see why not. do a search. i have a bunch of other wires going to the solinoid that i would rather not wire to the starter

 

[ForceFed70]

i dont see why not. do a search. i have a bunch of other wires going to the solinoid that i would rather not wire to the starter

Yes, but these wires can be relocated to another spot.. they don't need to go directly to the solenoid.

My reccomendation is to sit back and think about what you want to do with the car. The only real advantage to having an integrated solenoid is that it tends to remove clutter for the engine compartment. Great for show cars...

BUT, it means you complicate the wiring. And a replacement starter is going to be more costly are harder to find if yours ever dies on you. Which sucks if your car is a daily driver, or it breaks down on you when your out of town.

Basicly.. I'm suggesting that you don't bother with the starter with the integrated solenoid unless you plan on making the whole engine compartment "show quality".

 

[Edbert]

That is not bad advice, the old starters are dirt cheap. Other than creating a show car there are good reasons for using a late-model starter though...

They weigh less, have higher torque (generally), leave more room for headers, and are just as easy to find. As far as wiring complexity goes you have a battery positive that goes to the starter (use a 1ga. wire for this with a trunk mounted battery), you can connect your B+ from the alternator to this connection too. Then all you need is a single wire from the ingnition "start" circuit and you are done. If you want to do this you should also get a 1-wire alternator and dump that old voltage regulator while you are at it. You can then dump the solenoid which has what, abdout 6 wires, the regulator that has a small harness, and the external regulator from the alternator that has another 4-5 wires. it will actually SIMPLIFY your wiring and certainly look neater. The cost of all that is the kicker. Sticking with the stock stuff is cheap and easy but fugly, changing it out is beautiful and easy but expensive. You decide

 

[Swede958]

Here's what I did (or am doing). I relocated the battery, and am running 1ga cable to the starter through a cutout switch so I can choose to have a live wire that long through the car. I mounted a modern type solonoid (AZ pn# F492) behind the rear seats. The start wire from switch goes here and the B+ terminal on it also serves as a distribution point for some goodies if I need it. The switched side of the solonoid will use 10ga wire and follow the starter cable and activate the solonoid on the starter (meaning I have a late model). For the alt just used a 3G type and kept one wire fromt the old harness (rd/grn) but it soon to be replaced with a painless kit (wht I believe).

The Swede