Engine Trying to remove crankshaft pulley bolts

91GTstroked

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Jun 14, 2007
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Hey guys,

I recently bought the lmr factory style alternator, water pump, and crank pulleys for our 90 7 up vert. I am using these to replace the current under drive pulleys that are on the car.

It appears one of the previous owners thought it was a good idea to use red loctite on all of the pulleys bolts. I've already replaced the alternator pulley and removed the water pump pulley. But now I can't seem to loosen up the crank Allen style bolts. Probably doesn't help that the crank is turning some while I'm trying to loosen it.

My thought is maybe I should have left the belt on and started with that pulley. I'm now thinking that I should apply some heat to the bolt heads.

Any other tips?
 
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Hey guys,

I recently bought the lmr factory style alternator, water pump, and crank pulleys for our 90 7 up vert. I am using these to replace the current under drive pulleys that are on the car.

It appears one of the previous owners thought it was a good idea to use red loctite on all of the pulleys bolts. I've already replaced the alternator pulley and removed the water pump pulley. But now I can't seem to loosen up the crank Allen style bolts. Probably doesn't help that the crank is turning some while I'm trying to loosen it.

My thought is maybe I should have left the belt on and started with that pulley. I'm now thinking that I should apply some heat to the bolt heads.

Any other tips?
Heat the bolts. The internet says to about 500 degrees, you can use a propane torch. Some times striking the wrench with a hammer will transfer energy without rotating the crank assuming you cant fit an impact gun in there
 
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Heat the bolts. The internet says to about 500 degrees, you can use a propane torch. Some times striking the wrench with a hammer will transfer energy without rotating the crank assuming you cant fit an impact gun in there
Thanks for the tip. I tried fitting my impact in there, but it wouldn't fit . I'll jack the car up and work from underneath. Heat it up, and see if I can wack it loose.
 
I don't like applying heat to that area, probably just chicken,
Crank the engine over by hand counter clockwise with the #1 plug out (you can pull all if you like ) till almost tdc, poke some rope into the spark plug hole, as much as you can while still leaving a tail of rope sticking out the hole, now as you attempt to loosen the bolt the crank will only turn till it compresses the rope and the engine will not turn any further and you can break loose the bolt..
 
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You could also remove the center bolt. That will allow for you to get the others off on the ground. You could use an electric impact on them a whole lot easier with the balancer and pulley off.

On a stick shift car you can put it in gear and lock the E brake. The rope trick works too.
 
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You could also remove the center bolt. That will allow for you to get the others off on the ground. You could use an electric impact on them a whole lot easier with the balancer and pulley off.

On a stick shift car you can put it in gear and lock the E brake. The rope trick works too.
You could also remove the center bolt. That will allow for you to get the others off on the ground. You could use an electric impact on them a whole lot easier with the balancer and pulley off.

On a stick shift car you can put it in gear and lock the E brake. The rope trick works too.
I'll probably go this route. I've changed harmonic balancer before. Hopefully it will come off easier. I'm not sure a pulley puller will work with the crank pulley still attached to the balancer.
If stick shift, put the car in 4th or 5th gear to help prevent engine from turning over.
Car is AOD.
 
It does [not] require much heat to break loose Red Loctite but that is how Red was designed.

I generally mark those things that use Red loctite on specifically, so that I am reminded to heat it before trying to remove it.

The [hot tip] :tss: for Red is [heat soak] and not how hot you actually get the thing. So... slow heat while it penetrates down through the threads.
 
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It does [not] require much heat to break loose Red Loctite but that is how Red was designed.

I generally mark those things that use Red loctite on specifically, so that I am reminded to heat it before trying to remove it.

The [hot tip] :tss: for Red is [heat soak] and not how hot you actually get the thing. So... slow heat while it penetrates down through the threads.
So is it fine just applying heat on the hex head of the bolt? I guess that's the only place I can get to.
 
So is it fine just applying heat on the hex head of the bolt? I guess that's the only place I can get to.

That will work. Just be patient and heat it slowly. It takes time for that heat to reach the foot of the bolt (but not too long).

Generally, when I'm heating to soften up Loctite, the torch barely makes any noise and is turned way down.
 
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Geez, can you get a socket and ratchet on the crank bolt and a socket and ratchet on the pulley bolt and break it loose?
That's not a bad idea. Sucks, I can't work on it today. But hopefully this weekend. Things that shouldn't take long always end up taking a long time. Glad I don't wrench on cars for a living.
That will work. Just be patient and heat it slowly. It takes time for that heat to reach the foot of the bolt (but not too long).

Generally, when I'm heating to soften up Loctite, the torch barely makes any noise and is turned way down.
Great advice, thank you.
 
Hey guys,

Update, I managed to get it off with a little heat. I put a socket on the balancer bolt to keep it from turning while loosening the allen head style bolts.

Appreciate the help!
 

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