Tube chassis vs. stock frame

[xoxbxfx]

Well, Im going to be redoing the whole front and rear suspension on my stang. Im looking at doing a Mustang II front and a 4 link rear. I also need to install subrames. I was thinking since Im going to some of the front frame rails and the rear ones have to come out for the 4 link, should I just go with a full tube chassis and weld the body onto the new chassis? Im also redoing the front radiator support to make more room. The engine bay walls are going to done with custom sheetmetal to make more room (need turbo space )... Im hoping to make a battery tray spot on the drivers side as like the passangers for space...

Hope it makes sense, but what do you think? Use the stock frame or am I better off going with a new frame and weld the body on it?

 

[67efivert]

since u going through so much changing id run a new rail out of 2X3 tubing from front to back solid frame run it along the original lines of the frame its seems like the simplest way to me

 

[xoxbxfx]

since u going through so much changing id run a new rail out of 2X3 tubing from front to back solid frame run it along the original lines of the frame its seems like the simplest way to me

thats what I figured...I just dont know where to get teh frame rails from... Chassisworks makes them but shipping from cali is going to rape me

 

[TurboDoctor]

My frame is made from 2x3 as well. I have set the body on and it looks really good, you cant really see mush of the frame under the car unless you back up aways. I have not got a rear end yet so im noy sure yet, but looks like im going to be setting pretty low. I have pictures beeing developed as we speak. But if i was you i would just buy the back half kit and the mustang II front kit, then just join them together with some 2/3, basically what i did. buy im running late model struts and irs.

 

[67efivert]

turbo do u have any pics im intrested how u set it all up? thanks
and as far as the frame scratch build it out of 11 gauge 2X3 stock

 

[xoxbxfx]

pics...dear god we need pics

Im going to call around and see if I can find some metal for the frame.

 

[TurboDoctor]

I used .083" 2x3, that is what almost all after market frame rails are made of. since I dont not have a bender for rectanguler tube, I cut all the bends on a band saw. It took me a long time and some trial and error finding angles. Jiging up the frame also took some time. I had to move pieces around and tack them in place, cut them loose and try agin. Beeing that I built it all on my garage floor with no type or fixed jig or cnc bender im satisfied with the results.
the frame will diamond out almost exact. Hopefully it will be able to take a wheel alighnment. If you plan on trying to fab anything up I suggest a nice level concrete floor and a very good laser level that can perform multi functions. I have been welding for a living since high school and still do every day and setting it all up even gave me trouble. I proably got 80+ hours alone in the front end. Getting every thing square and level is the challange. Ill post some pics when I get them and let you see where im at. All I really need is to buy a rear end and fine tune some details. Your also going to need a good welder. A 110- 90-120 amp welder just isnt going to do. I know they claim you can weld up to 1/4 thick stock but thats not the issue. You are going to have to penetrate the material quickly and try not to allow the metal around the weld to fall victim of heat fatiuge. You are also going to have to produce a sound quaility weld with some integrity. Welding on .083" takes some time and some previous skill. You have to get to the point where it sounds like your going to burn through and you will get some great penetration on the material. I think you will be able to handle it though. Just takes some time and patiance. If you are just going to join a back half to a front end clip with subframe conectors, and not build the whole frame from scratch, you will proably be able to do that real easy and with really good results.

 

[xoxbxfx]

I used .083" 2x3, that is what almost all after market frame rails are made of. since I dont not have a bender for rectanguler tube, I cut all the bends on a band saw. It took me a long time and some trial and error finding angles. Jiging up the frame also took some time. I had to move pieces around and tack them in place, cut them loose and try agin. Beeing that I built it all on my garage floor with no type or fixed jig or cnc bender im satisfied with the results.
the frame will diamond out almost exact. Hopefully it will be able to take a wheel alighnment. If you plan on trying to fab anything up I suggest a nice level concrete floor and a very good laser level that can perform multi functions. I have been welding for a living since high school and still do every day and setting it all up even gave me trouble. I proably got 80+ hours alone in the front end. Getting every thing square and level is the challange. Ill post some pics when I get them and let you see where im at. All I really need is to buy a rear end and fine tune some details. Your also going to need a good welder. A 110- 90-120 amp welder just isnt going to do. I know they claim you can weld up to 1/4 thick stock but thats not the issue. You are going to have to penetrate the material quickly and try not to allow the metal around the weld to fall victim of heat fatiuge. You are also going to have to produce a sound quaility weld with some integrity. Welding on .083" takes some time and some previous skill. You have to get to the point where it sounds like your going to burn through and you will get some great penetration on the material. I think you will be able to handle it though. Just takes some time and patiance. If you are just going to join a back half to a front end clip with subframe conectors, and not build the whole frame from scratch, you will proably be able to do that real easy and with really good results.

Well, I just bought a Millermatic 175 (still need an electrician to wire an outlet for it) and it shouldnt have any problems... My garage floor is level and should be a good base but I will have to lug the frame in and out of the garage when building it. Do you think I could just run straight frame rails? Did you have to bend them?

 

[samwe]

I used 2x3 for the front subframe, then 2x2 to the rear. I stil have the stock rear subframe for now.

Even the 2x2 made an impressive difference.
My doors close better now!

 

[RogerC62]

I used 2x3 for the front subframe, then 2x2 to the rear. I stil have the stock rear subframe for now.

That's how my design for my cage/frame started out. I haven't got all the dimensions figured out yet for the new front and rear frame sections. The center 2X2s (see pic) basically connect the front to the rear and are shown ending at the front where the front sub angles down to the pan. The outer 2X3s are mostly cage pieces for side impact protection at the rockers and the length shown is the length of the rockers. It made no sense to me to have a roll cage welded to the reinforced floor and no protection at the rockers and lower doors. The round bars above the 2X3s are terminated at a random point till I get the front hoop/dash bar figured out. The outer 2X3s will be tied to the frt sub with a round tube angled up to it. The 2X3s sticking out the back are the front end of the rear sub and are tied together with the 2X2s and the outer 2X3s with plate, completely boxing in the area. This set up requires that I move the seats inboard an inch each but the cage will be inboard of the doors and the bottom of the 2X3s at the bottom of the rocker flange.
http://forums.stangnet.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=15351

 

[dolfan87]

Well, I just bought a Millermatic 175 (still need an electrician to wire an outlet for it) and it shouldnt have any problems... My garage floor is level and should be a good base but I will have to lug the frame in and out of the garage when building it. Do you think I could just run straight frame rails? Did you have to bend them?

Here is what we did, and even though the car hasn't hit the road, I think it will be strong enough for whatever abuse I put it through.

I am just tossing this out there, so you have options.

We built this all ourselves too.

 

[dolfan87]

And here is a picture of the linked rear.

 

[302 coupe]

RacerX,

looks like you enjoy a good challenge, also good job with the ProE(appears to be ProE anyway). The only thing I would change about that design, would be to use the 2x2's outboard, and have the 2x3's as the frame rails. The rockers are reasonably strong, the 2x2's and tubing/cage will provide more than adequate side impact protection for all but the most extreme cases.

Personally, I will be using 2x3's as frame rails, along with some outriggers going out to the rockers. At the rear, it'll be connected to a 4 link, up front will be MII, with tubular braces running from the front of the subframe up and back to the front roll hoop behind the dash. The roll hoop will be part of a 6 point cage. This won't be on a stang, but rather a 62 Falcon pro-street project I'm working on.

 

[RogerC62]

302 coupe,
I'm using 2X2 to keep intrusion at the pedals to a minimum. I also didn't want any of the framing hanging down too low for ground clearance reasons and I wanted the front and rear hoops to be attached to the 2X3s. All of it ties together enough that it should be plenty strong still going with the 2X2 in the center. I did it in SolidWorks though I have done it in ProE previously. I too, am going with a MII IFS and also a CWI IRS.