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Tubular K-Member Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter Performance Red
  • Start date Start date Jun 26, 2006
P

Performance Red

Member
Nov 29, 2004
75
2
6
Jun 26, 2006
#1
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #1
Hi everyone, I have recently been looking at purchasing a tubular k-member (PA Racing) and have a few questions about them, whats the main difference between mild steel and chromoly? My car will be a street driven car that will see the 1/4 mile track every other week or so. I want something that will be lighter then the factory K without being to weak for regular street driving. Should I be looking at a mild steel one or a chromoly one? I have read good things about the PA Racing K member, and since I do not plan on doing any road racing I have no need for a road race k member (ie MM or Griggs). Any help is appreciated.


Thanks, Andy
 

02dragGT

New Member
Jul 28, 2005
23
0
0
Clarence Center, New York
Jun 26, 2006
#2
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #2
I have the PA in mild steel, I was told by Jason at PA and others that it was better for street driving. I rarely street drive my car any more so I kind of wished I had gone with the chromoly. Reguardless it fit great and I'm very happy with it.
 
P

Performance Red

Member
Nov 29, 2004
75
2
6
Jun 26, 2006
#3
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #3
One last question, if you go with the tubular A-arms you need to purchase coil-overs also correct? Or is there a way to get tubular a-arms with spring perches? Once again thanks for the help.
 
J

JohnyD05

Founding Member
Mar 17, 2002
417
0
0
Massachusetts
Jun 26, 2006
#4
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #4
Performance Red said:
One last question, if you go with the tubular A-arms you need to purchase coil-overs also correct? Or is there a way to get tubular a-arms with spring perches? Once again thanks for the help.
Click to expand...


I am pretty sure someone offers tubular a-arms with spring perches. i saw it as an option somewhere. maybe MM?
 

02dragGT

New Member
Jul 28, 2005
23
0
0
Clarence Center, New York
Jun 26, 2006
#5
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #5
PA will sell it to you either way, perches are an option. I got the perches on my K and used my stock A's for now. This coming winter I plan to do tublar A and coil-overs so I'll just cut the perches of the K
 
P

Performance Red

Member
Nov 29, 2004
75
2
6
Jun 26, 2006
#6
  • Jun 26, 2006
  • #6
Last question, is there any fabrication neccessary to use the PA K-Member with the factory a-arms? or will they bolt right in? Would the 03-04 cobra a arms be a worthwhile upgrade until I can afford the coilovers and a-arms? Also how is the camber with the factory a-arms on the k-member?
 

02dragGT

New Member
Jul 28, 2005
23
0
0
Clarence Center, New York
Jun 27, 2006
#7
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #7
The factory A-arms fit perfectly no problems at all. I had to grind one bolt head flange a slight amount for clearence. I had a friend align the car when I was done, he spent a little extra time but got it perfect. We did have to grind the strut tower on the pass side to improve the clearence. I have BBK CC plates on mine.

I'm not sure if the Cobra arms would be any better, I think if your going to put any money in arms I'd get the tubelars from PA
 

Dark Knight GT

I can't get it up......ok that didn't sound right.
May 26, 2003
3,653
2
56
Ozark, Missouri
Jun 27, 2006
#8
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #8
02dragGT said:
I'm not sure if the Cobra arms would be any better, I think if your going to put any money in arms I'd get the tubelars from PA
Click to expand...
I agree. It's always a good rule of thumb to run the same brand of A-arms with the same brand of K-member that you're running so you know it's going to fit, and work with it.

Also, I would just save up my money until I could afford the coil over setup as well. After all, when you drop the k-member and a-arms out, it's very little extra work to replace the struts, and convert to a coil over kit. Might as well do it while everything is apart.
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jun 27, 2006
#9
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #9
honestly, if this is going to be a street car i would heavily recommend the MM K member, for racing it really doesnt matter, and i hear PA is a favorite, but for safety i would seriously consider changing brands.

the MM K member is welded with gusseting in critical areas for the event of a crash. it will weigh more then the PA by a little bit, but it will be safer for street times incase you ever have to USE the K member for its OTHER intended purpose.

the MM K member allows you to use their A arms, stock A arms, or cobra A arms. MM A arms must use coilovers, no option for spring perches. PA and one other company do have this option available, but its kinda redundant. I would get the K member, but hold off install till you can afford the A arms, and coilovers... and tie rod ends...

anyhow, just something to think on. I am a big fan of MM, but i do have my reasons, i'm not just a fanboy.

Torinalth
 
R

Rocketman

New Member
Apr 20, 2004
730
0
0
SoCal
Jun 27, 2006
#10
  • Jun 27, 2006
  • #10
I went with the PA Racing mild steel K and would not change a thing. I also used my stock A-arms. I also had to grind the top of the stock A-arm a little for clearance on the passenger side. DS fit just perfect. I have no regrets with my set-up. Took a lot of weight off the front end.






 

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