tubular K-member....

niklid05 · Sep 18, 2005

Is there any good tubular K-member that doesnt move the wheels back an 1" or so? I read about this in other threads, did a search and couldnt find that other thread (to be honest I didnt look all that hard ) I plan on tearing everything out of a notch and doing replacing of broken missing parts, body work, and suspension upgrades over the winter. Home-made subframe connectors, control arms, struts, springs, sway bars, k-member etc. The whole I just want a sweet handling stang ordeal. Any input would be rockin'!

marine_2003 · Sep 18, 2005

Im going with a QA1, going with the whole setup, you can get it on ebay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...d=1,1&item=7999917469&sspagename=STRK:MEWA:IT

Rick 91GT · Sep 18, 2005

The QA1 moves the wheels forward 1"....always has.

I have delt with the UPR and PA Racing pieces which keep them in the stock position, both work very well and give you a lot of clearance. If your interested in a UPR kit let me know

ImportEater98 · Sep 18, 2005

DO NOT USE QA1! I have it and it did infact move the front wheels up 1" This caused all sorts of problems. The front wheels would hit the front of the wheel well when I would turn the wheels....I called QA1 and they had absolutely nothing helpfull to say....i ended up having to cut away a section of the wheel well so they would just clear for turning. The car is a drag car, so it doesn't do much turning, but when it does, occasionally, it rubs. If i were to do it again i would go with UPR, MM, etc. I hear those don't have this problem. QA1 says they do this because they are trying to acheive a better weight distribution...not too streetable IMHO. Good luck.

NOSNotch · Sep 18, 2005

Ive gotta pa racing tubular K and A arms in my 93 and bolted right up and no problems except a slight issue with the bushings in the A arms. Bolted a D&D setup in my buddys car with 0 problems also. Good luck with is

kevin

niklid05 · Sep 18, 2005

Rick, Where in PA are you located? Can you email me a price on the kit?

Another thing... am I gonna need coilovers for a K-member? Or can i use eibachs? Which would you guys recomend, the PA or the UPR k-member?

NOSNotch · Sep 19, 2005

The PA is available with spring perches on the k and the arms. I paid around $725 shipped on mine.

http://paracing.net/

Bruce_Dickinson · Sep 19, 2005

UPR sucks, PA is actually one of the better ones out there for a good price. Although if you choose an aftermarket K member you will be worse off in a front end collision.

Rick 91GT · Sep 19, 2005

Bruce_Dickinson said:
UPR sucks, PA is actually one of the better ones out there for a good price. Although if you choose an aftermarket K member you will be worse off in a front end collision.

Used quite a few UPR units with out issues, street or race it is a nice set-up. Of course everybody has there own opinion on UPR... The PA kit is top notch and Jason is a helluva guy as well.

niklid05 said:
Rick, Where in PA are you located? Can you email me a price on the kit?

Hanover, PA (York County) Shoot me an e-mail address Rick91GT@suscom.net

EMW150 · Sep 19, 2005

ImportEater98 said:
DO NOT USE QA1! I have it and it did infact move the front wheels up 1" This caused all sorts of problems. The front wheels would hit the front of the wheel well when I would turn the wheels....I called QA1 and they had absolutely nothing helpfull to say....i ended up having to cut away a section of the wheel well so they would just clear for turning. The car is a drag car, so it doesn't do much turning, but when it does, occasionally, it rubs. If i were to do it again i would go with UPR, MM, etc. I hear those don't have this problem. QA1 says they do this because they are trying to acheive a better weight distribution...not too streetable IMHO. Good luck.

Ditto. I spaced mine back as far as possible and the tires are still far forward. I just took my inner fenderwells out because they were scuffed and melted.

niklid05 · Sep 19, 2005

Bruce_Dickinson said:
UPR sucks, PA is actually one of the better ones out there for a good price. Although if you choose an aftermarket K member you will be worse off in a front end collision.

So are you saying that Im pretty much screwed if I get in any front end collision or just if I'm driving like an ******* or someone decides to hit me head on at 50 mph(in that case Id be screwed either way lol)?

Is there any others out there that come with spring perches? Is it gonna be hard to find a used PA k-member?

crazypete · Sep 19, 2005

Groundpounder front end. The musclemotors guys have it for $600 and $550 from their ebay auctions. It's the k-member, a-arms AND coilover kit all for $600 with your choice of coilover spring rates

I sound like a commerical but it's hands down one of the best deals I've seen. You drop insane weight off the front and go coilover at the same time.

My street is a horrid slalom of potholes, cracks, uneven pavement. I've been on dirt roads smoother than rte60. The GP front end holds up under extreme heavy duty abuse, hard braking and full street/highway driving. It seems surprisingly to have good rust resistance too.

I say go for the GP.

Wheels stay where they are.

QDRHRSE · Sep 19, 2005

I like the D&D unit. It's cheap and very well built. You can get them for around $635 shipped. That would include K member, A arms, and coilovers.

tomustang · Sep 19, 2005

niklid05 said:
So are you saying that Im pretty much screwed if I get in any front end collision or just if I'm driving like an ******* or someone decides to hit me head on at 50 mph(in that case Id be screwed either way lol)?

correct, No K member is crash approved except for factory ones.

niklid05 · Sep 19, 2005

So the GP, UPR and PA's keep the wheels where they are?
what about D&D? and MM?
Which ones can be used with regular springs and not coilovers?

niklid05 · Sep 19, 2005

looks *****ted up but what about this one?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1979...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

jerryD · Sep 19, 2005

don't forget about AJE Racing. theirs also keeps the wheels in the stock location. they have options for using the stock springs as well. i myself have the AJE, and if I was to choose another brand it would be PA racing as mentioned already.

www.ajeracing.com

niklid05 · Sep 19, 2005

jerryD said:
don't forget about AJE Racing. theirs also keeps the wheels in the stock location. they have options for using the stock springs as well. i myself have the AJE, and if I was to choose another brand it would be PA racing as mentioned already.

www.ajeracing.com

What part number is yours, or which one is yours lol. Whatever is easier for you.

Do you use stock springs on yours?

MU-3010 MS w/5.0 Mts $329

would I be looking at that one for the stock springs?

jerryD · Sep 19, 2005

i just got a basic steel k member with motor mounts. nothing special. i did get the spring perch thingies for it, but i never used them as i just went ahead and put tube arms and coil-o's on at the same time.

MU-3010
MU-6000
MU-7000
MU-1000

paid $680 for all of it, they shipped it to me(big box BTW), no extra for shipping cause i got it at WFC6 or 7 or something.

niklid05 · Sep 19, 2005

If I'd use these MU-6001 A-arms I could use stock style springs correct?

How do you like your setup?
How does it handle?
Do you know what kind of weight savings you got?

tubular K-member....

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