tubular K-member....

[jerryD]

honestly, i don't know cause they told me i could use the stock arm in theier k-member with the stock style springs. that was my intentions, never happend though. so $40 wasted on spring perches, o'well nothing new in this hobby.

driving down the road it is fine, just when going slow or in parking lots it creeks a little here and there. the coil o's prob help make some of it to. sometime when i get unlazy, i need to tighten the a-arms more. i think they are also contributing to some of the noise.
dunno about the weight savings other than i know it was worth it. from having to drag the stocker out with arm, struts, ....everything still atached. i just took out the eight bolts and draged it across the floor. wasn't too fun. i mainly like the EXTRA room underneath to work on whatever. there is SO much i love it.

here is a crappy pic of it.

 

[90mustangGT]

I ordered the GP unit. MuscleMotorsports said they were having quality issues with them and send my the GMS unit. Heavier than other units and such but much beefier. Maby one day I'll trade out. The GMS unit is expensive, I got it for a very cheap price.

It still dropped over 23bs of the front end not including the weight reduction of the coi overs. Wheels are forward more though. Cleans up the engine bay a lot.

 

[niklid05]

yea, 90mustanggt, I want to keep the wheels at stock position, but you said 23 pounds off and it's beefier than most. Sounds like a pretty good deal. The added room will also be a plus.

JerryD, Ill buy the spring perches off of you for 25 bucks shipped.

Anyone know anything about the griggs? do they move the wheels forward or back?

 

[jerryD]

the griggs, MM, and KB are all geared toward auto crossing. they are beefier yes, but cost more. not sure about wheelbase selection on them. i dunno if 90mustanggt got luck or not, as i do not know the price of his, i do know that the MM goes for like $650-750 just for the k-member it self.

niklid05- i'm not sure if i want to sell them, sounds odd as i am not using them though huh? also i dunno if they work with other companys k-members or not.

 

[50gt1988]

The QA1 moves the wheels forward 1"....always has.

I have delt with the UPR and PA Racing pieces which keep them in the stock position, both work very well and give you a lot of clearance. If your interested in a UPR kit let me know

I'm also in the market for a good Tubular K-member unit for road racing. Is the UPR built for road racing or is it just set up for drags? I've looked into the MM kit but it moves the wheels forward? So Rick I'll take any info you have on UPR, thanks.

 

[niklid05]

niklid05- i'm not sure if i want to sell them, sounds odd as i am not using them though huh? also i dunno if they work with other companys k-members or not.

How about I just send you 20 $1 coins and you can use those for paper weights instead? lol

Also would the k-member you have still make a decent handling stang? Or is it just geared more towards straight line driving? If it makes it handle better(im not looking for the best handling car, if i was I'd be taking out a loan to get the griggs setup.)then I think I would just with the setup you have now, but with stock style springs, more then likely eibachs.

 

[90mustangGT]

Well, I paid $380 for the K-member and A-arms. Shipping $50. $430 total. Of course, I bought the GP kit, they sent me the GMS kit. The GMS K-member goes for $399 at Summit, and the A-arms go for $291. A good deal, yes, but not as light as I wanted it. It comes with a G-load brace and all with extra supports. I won't need all that support with 15x3.5 Welds up front, but I figured this, the K-member holds the suspension to the engine to the chassis, a little extra is better than not enough.

 

[Rick 91GT]

Stay away from the Ground Pounder...first hand expierence they are JUNK.

 

[niklid05]

rick you have an email. Can you send me a price on that kit?

 

[jerryD]

as for the handling, i guess it is fine. if you didn't know a tube K was in, i don't think you would notice while driving, i don't at least. only thing i watch out for is pot holes. i try to swerve around most of them so that it is less like likely to damage the a-arms or anything else. i drive it mostly on weekends and maybe once a week to work. i get about 10-12 mpg(untuned currently) and my buget can't afford to drive it every day.

 

[crazypete]

Stay away from the Ground Pounder...first hand expierence they are JUNK.

Yeah, I had to eye out 2 of the mounting holes and cut off a piece of the DS engine support so it didnt bash the oilpan in. Plus you will need a flaming river shaft since the big fat ragjoint will hit the engine support. But any k-member swap will have it's share of little fitment issues.

 

[niklid05]

How much trouble is it if I would use a k-member that changes the wheels a bit? Is the Griggs a good "handling improving" k-member? Could I run 17x8 cobra's with out issues? How hard is it gonna be to find a used k-member? I saw one on ebay. The griggs one and thats about it.

 

[crazypete]

How much trouble is it if I would use a k-member that changes the wheels a bit? Is the Griggs a good "handling improving" k-member? Could I run 17x8 cobra's with out issues? How hard is it gonna be to find a used k-member? I saw one on ebay. The griggs one and thats about it.

Dont get a used one. You have no idea how much of it's original structual integrity still remains. This is the piece that holds up your motor and holds the front of the car off the ground. Dont skimp here.....especially when fresh units can be had for under $500 with a-arms and coilovers.

Just get one that doesnt change the front wheels. Most of those non change ones have multiple engine mount points to move the motor back and achieve that more 50/50 distribution the wheel moving kmembers are trying for.