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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-
  • Fox 5.0 Mustang Tech

Tune Up???

  • Thread starter Thread starter Quick Pony
  • Start date Start date Jul 7, 2007

Quick Pony

Member
Nov 28, 2002
129
0
16
Pensacola, Florida
Jul 7, 2007
#1
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #1
My 1991 Ford Mustang LX 5.0 Convertible started running bad. Its fine while I'm moving faster than 30 mph, but when I slow down or stop the car, the motor begans missing after about 20 seconds to the point where it sometimes stalls!!

I decided I should replace the spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.

1. Is there anything else I should replace along with the aboved parts?
2.Also, the autoparts man told me that his computer shows Autolite Plugs to use for my vehicle. Should I use Autolite Plugs or go with something better? The plugs are only $1.48 each and I want a very good plug that will last.


Thanks

Larry
 

88mouse

New Member
Apr 18, 2007
630
0
0
Mooresville nc
Jul 7, 2007
#2
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #2
change the fuel filter to. my car doesn't run good on autolites i run motorcraft.
 

Mustang5L5

That is…until I whipped out my Bissell
Mod Dude
Feb 18, 2001
43,164
17,860
224
Massachusetts
Jul 7, 2007
#3
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #3
Quick Pony said:
2.Also, the autoparts man told me that his computer shows Autolite Plugs to use for my vehicle. Should I use Autolite Plugs or go with something better? The plugs are only $1.48 each and I want a very good plug that will last.
Click to expand...

Use the Autolite 25's, or Motorcraft 42c's. Get the copper versions, not any of that platnium junk. The 5.0 tends to not like platnium. They are virtually the same plug so it doesn't matter which you get. Autolite manufactures the plugs for Ford, so they are sold under the motorcraft label. There are some differences up and down the line, but for the 25/42C, they are virtually the same plug.

Gap is 0.054-0.056" Make sure you pick up some dielectric grease and put a small dab on the tip where you put the plug wire. Some anti-seize on the threads is a good idea as well.
 

bill302

Active Member
Nov 2, 2005
2,131
1
46
alabama,gadsden
Jul 7, 2007
#4
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #4
clean or replace the iac sensor see link.....http://www.muscularmustangs.com/iac.php
 
N

nseand

New Member
May 26, 2007
9
0
0
Jul 7, 2007
#5
  • Jul 7, 2007
  • #5
where to go now

I just picked up an 87 with the maf conversion and a ton of work done on it but it wont start. Gets spark, has press gague on the fuel rail and reading close to 40 lbs. I am getting voltage ath the injectors, and spark. I have replaced the plugs, the module on the dist, cap, rotor, coil, plugs ( plugs were wet when I took them out) . Even tried spraying starter fluid in the throttle body and nothing. Turns over, has compression just wont fire. I am going to replace the pickup on the dist this week and cross my fingers. The car was rarely started in several years as it sat in someones garage, they said last time it ran for 5 sec and never wood start again. The fuseable link (20 ga) was corroded so I replaced that. Fuel pump comes on and primes as well. I was thinking bad gas, but put in a bottle or 2 of gas conditioner incase there was water back there, but I am at a loss here. The last thing I want to do is have it toed somewhere and pay an arm and a leg. ANy thoughts?
 

HISSIN50

"How long does it take to get help in here?
15 Year Member
Nov 29, 1999
31,179
33
129
Jul 8, 2007
#6
  • Jul 8, 2007
  • #6
Larry, pull your codes. Also consider running a cylinder balance test if the miss occurs while the car is stationary.

If you havent, cleaning the EGR isnt a bad idea. If a piece of coke is holding the valve open, it will idle take off like crap.

Good luck.
 
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