Two simple rear brake questions

[95strokerPSU]

Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.

And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?

Thanks
Dave

 

[tb9050lx]

Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.

And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?

Thanks
Dave

yeah iff not the pads dont sit right on the brackets and uneven wear and pad rattle occur.mostly hear it when slowing to a stop.

 

[95strokerPSU]

Alright I'll do my best to get them in with the clips.

How about the outside pad? How close to the rotor?

 

[95strokerPSU]

I guess also how close should the inside pad be to the rotor?

 

[mo_dingo]

The pad will be touching. If it isn't, the brake will adjust itself so that it is.

If you can't spin the hub by hand, the pads are too tight and you need to turn the piston in some more (of course, both wheels need to be off the ground, and the trans needs to be in neutral).
Scott

 

[Chythar]

Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.

As stated earlier, you need to use the anti-rattle clips. It's a tight fit on purpose, so the pads won't rattle. Be patient, you'll be able to get them on. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out the first pad, then the rest went on much easier.

And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?

You need to rotate the piston on the caliper in first. Yes, rotate; it doesn't press in like the front calipers. You can use pliers and the generic caliper tool, but Napa Auto carries the specific Ford one for a reasonable price. Rotate the piston in all the way, and you won't have any problems reinstalling the caliper. Apply the brakes a few times while in motion, and the caliper will set the pads in the proper place.

 

[Blackened302]

You need to rotate the piston on the caliper in first. Yes, rotate; it doesn't press in like the front calipers. You can use pliers and the generic caliper tool, but Napa Auto carries the specific Ford one for a reasonable price. Rotate the piston in all the way, and you won't have any problems reinstalling the caliper. Apply the brakes a few times while in motion, and the caliper will set the pads in the proper place.

don't mean to undermine you, Chythar, but is this accurate info? i took off the rear pads to change them, but put them back in as they still have about 3/4 left. now, i notice whining at low speeds. thanks.

 

[Chythar]

don't mean to undermine you, Chythar, but is this accurate info? i took off the rear pads to change them, but put them back in as they still have about 3/4 left. now, i notice whining at low speeds. thanks.

No worries. Yes, this is accurate; I've followed these procedures every time I've changed my rear pads, which is three times now. If you don't change the pads and put the same ones back on, you don't need to compress the caliper at all. you only need to compress the caliper if the new pads are thicker than the old ones.

Are you sure the rear brakes are working? I had my rear calipers freeze up on me a couple of months ago, they weren't working at all. Does your e-brake hold the rear wheels? If you're stopped, the car shouldn't move at idle. If you're moving, the e-brake should brake the car slightly.

I had a new set of pads squeak on me - I switched the inner pads from one wheel to the other, and the squeak went away. Also, make sure those anti-rattle clips keep the pads in pretty snug. If the pads are still loose in the caliper braket, they may be squeaking.

 

[Blackened302]

e-brake holds the car at idle--i hope that means the rears are working, lol.

tomorrow we're supposed to work on them--i'll check out those things you mentioned. thanks, man!