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Two simple rear brake questions

  • Thread starter Thread starter 95strokerPSU
  • Start date Start date Jul 12, 2005

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
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Sacramento from Philly
Jul 12, 2005
#1
  • Jul 12, 2005
  • #1
Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.

And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?

Thanks
Dave
 

tb9050lx

Member
Mar 7, 2004
155
3
19
ct
Jul 12, 2005
#2
  • Jul 12, 2005
  • #2
95strokerPSU said:
Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.

And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?

Thanks
Dave
Click to expand...


yeah iff not the pads dont sit right on the brackets and uneven wear and pad rattle occur.mostly hear it when slowing to a stop.
 

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
986
1
19
Sacramento from Philly
Jul 12, 2005
#3
  • Jul 12, 2005
  • #3
Alright I'll do my best to get them in with the clips.

How about the outside pad? How close to the rotor?
 

95strokerPSU

Member
Jul 29, 2004
986
1
19
Sacramento from Philly
Jul 12, 2005
#4
  • Jul 12, 2005
  • #4
I guess also how close should the inside pad be to the rotor?
 

mo_dingo

20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2003
3,031
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Tucson, AZ
Jul 12, 2005
#5
  • Jul 12, 2005
  • #5
The pad will be touching. If it isn't, the brake will adjust itself so that it is.

If you can't spin the hub by hand, the pads are too tight and you need to turn the piston in some more (of course, both wheels need to be off the ground, and the trans needs to be in neutral).
Scott
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,374
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113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 13, 2005
#6
  • Jul 13, 2005
  • #6
95strokerPSU said:
Do I need to use the anti-rattle clips? Seems like it's going to be impossible to get the pads in and keep the clips on.
Click to expand...
As stated earlier, you need to use the anti-rattle clips. It's a tight fit on purpose, so the pads won't rattle. Be patient, you'll be able to get them on. It took me a couple of minutes to figure out the first pad, then the rest went on much easier.

95strokerPSU said:
And how close should the outside pad be to the rotor? Should there be slight gap or should it be against the rotor?
Click to expand...
You need to rotate the piston on the caliper in first. Yes, rotate; it doesn't press in like the front calipers. You can use pliers and the generic caliper tool, but Napa Auto carries the specific Ford one for a reasonable price. Rotate the piston in all the way, and you won't have any problems reinstalling the caliper. Apply the brakes a few times while in motion, and the caliper will set the pads in the proper place.
 

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
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36
South TX
Jul 19, 2006
#7
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #7
Chythar said:
You need to rotate the piston on the caliper in first. Yes, rotate; it doesn't press in like the front calipers. You can use pliers and the generic caliper tool, but Napa Auto carries the specific Ford one for a reasonable price. Rotate the piston in all the way, and you won't have any problems reinstalling the caliper. Apply the brakes a few times while in motion, and the caliper will set the pads in the proper place.
Click to expand...

don't mean to undermine you, Chythar, but is this accurate info? i took off the rear pads to change them, but put them back in as they still have about 3/4 left. now, i notice whining at low speeds. thanks.
 

Chythar

Recently finished repairing my rear
20+ Year Stangneter
Aug 26, 2004
2,374
140
113
Foothill Ranch, CA
Jul 19, 2006
#8
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #8
Punisher302 said:
don't mean to undermine you, Chythar, but is this accurate info? i took off the rear pads to change them, but put them back in as they still have about 3/4 left. now, i notice whining at low speeds. thanks.
Click to expand...
No worries. Yes, this is accurate; I've followed these procedures every time I've changed my rear pads, which is three times now. If you don't change the pads and put the same ones back on, you don't need to compress the caliper at all. you only need to compress the caliper if the new pads are thicker than the old ones.

Are you sure the rear brakes are working? I had my rear calipers freeze up on me a couple of months ago, they weren't working at all. Does your e-brake hold the rear wheels? If you're stopped, the car shouldn't move at idle. If you're moving, the e-brake should brake the car slightly.

I had a new set of pads squeak on me - I switched the inner pads from one wheel to the other, and the squeak went away. Also, make sure those anti-rattle clips keep the pads in pretty snug. If the pads are still loose in the caliper braket, they may be squeaking.
 

Blackened302

Active Member
Jul 21, 2005
1,439
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36
South TX
Jul 19, 2006
#9
  • Jul 19, 2006
  • #9
e-brake holds the car at idle--i hope that means the rears are working, lol.

tomorrow we're supposed to work on them--i'll check out those things you mentioned. thanks, man!
 
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