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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • 2005 - 2009 Specific Tech

UDP Install Question

  • Thread starter Thread starter french2812
  • Start date Start date Jan 11, 2008
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
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0
Olympia, WA
Jan 11, 2008
#1
  • Jan 11, 2008
  • #1
So I am installing a set of Roush UDP's. I am at the install point with the harmonic balancer and am using the OEM installer. The pulley goes on withing an eighth of an inch and all of a sudden the installer falls off. After some inspection, it appears that the threaded end of the installer only grabs a few thread before the shoulder stops further threading. Also, to remove the new pulley, an outside puller is needed as the slots in it are too small for the one that pulled the oem off.The question is, what type of installer should I use? This one fits so deep that it is virtually useless to finish the job.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 11, 2008
#2
  • Jan 11, 2008
  • #2
whats the OEM #?

i used harmonic balancer installer OEM # 27144
 
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
0
0
Olympia, WA
Jan 12, 2008
#3
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #3
That is the one I used, but it doesn't grab enough threads.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 12, 2008
#4
  • Jan 12, 2008
  • #4
without seeing the tool, i will need to do this from memory. its been over a year since i did this, so bear with me. cant you adjust the large nut on the installer further back, and thread the rod into the crank?

also, get a light and a mirror and check to make sure you didnt damage the threads on the crank. if they are damaged, you will need to retap the threads. use the mirror so you can shine the light on it an into the holr to be able to see the threads.
 
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
0
0
Olympia, WA
Jan 13, 2008
#5
  • Jan 13, 2008
  • #5
The problem is the threaded collar that goes into the crank snout. The shoulder on it comes up snug against the snout and won't go in any further. No adjustment to counter that. I was worried about the threads, but the new crank bolt goes in cleanly. I think I will have to get creative and get some all thread that can get completely threaded into the snout.
 

anthony05gt

Active Member
Mar 18, 2006
1,262
1
37
Maryland
Jan 13, 2008
#6
  • Jan 13, 2008
  • #6
Get a longer bolt and flat washer and draw it in about half way, then switch to the permanent bolt and finish drawing it in. Don't forget the silicone.
 
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
0
0
Olympia, WA
Jan 13, 2008
#7
  • Jan 13, 2008
  • #7
I am going to use the OEM tool but I am getting a small piece of all thread that will go all the way into the bolt hole. The threads are about 3/4" from the outside of the snout and there is only about an inch before the shoulder hits on the OEM adaptor. Just a little twist that makes home mechanicing (sic) interesting.
 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member
Nov 5, 2006
2,517
61
89
Long Island NY
Jan 13, 2008
#8
  • Jan 13, 2008
  • #8
I used a 3 jaw puller and had to use a hardened socket to make up the slack between the the rod and the balancer, however I've read that a Chrysler puller works best.
 
M

MikeysOTP

New Member
Mar 29, 2007
203
1
0
Jan 14, 2008
#9
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #9
tommyroc said:
I used a 3 jaw puller and had to use a hardened socket to make up the slack between the the rod and the balancer, however I've read that a Chrysler puller works best.
Click to expand...

I used the Chrysler puller and everthing went pretty smooth.
 

bigcat

start with the upper hole, and if more traction is
May 1, 2005
3,015
1
79
7200 feet
Jan 14, 2008
#10
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #10
hey guys, he is at the install point, trying to use the installation tool. but, yes, the chrysler style works the best.
 
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
0
0
Olympia, WA
Jan 14, 2008
#11
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #11
All is well, minus a bit of flesh off of a finger! Thanks for the input. If, in case your every would want to remove the underdirve pulley, an outside puller may be needed, at least on a Roush pulley. The inside slots are mucho small, maybe to small even for a Chrysler puller.
 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member
Nov 5, 2006
2,517
61
89
Long Island NY
Jan 14, 2008
#12
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #12
The UDP's i've seen you will need a "bull nose" style puller. If you notice they have 3 or 2 threaded holes in the inside balancer part, the puller arms get threaded in there.
 
M

MikeysOTP

New Member
Mar 29, 2007
203
1
0
Jan 14, 2008
#13
  • Jan 14, 2008
  • #13
Good to hear that you got 'em on. I am assuming you took it out for a test run so what do you think?
 
F

french2812

New Member
Oct 12, 2006
89
0
0
Olympia, WA
Jan 16, 2008
#14
  • Jan 16, 2008
  • #14
It has always run great. Hard to tell a huge difference at this point. Dyno tune, CAI and cat backs. Next mod is deletes. Then I will go back to the dyno and see what the result is. I will post the numbers when done.
 
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