Umm.. What Is TRAC LOCK???
- Thread starter rude_life
- Start date
Since your looking to do yours up....
Its Fords version of a posi (GM term) dif unit..
Here's the dif...you can see the clutches and shims up under the spider gears...the S spring is what puts pressure on the clutch pack...
Here is the FRPP Trak-loc rebuild kit....clutches and shims and bolt
Pinion gear with shim....puller used to remove the pinion bearing (right)
Its Fords version of a posi (GM term) dif unit..
Here's the dif...you can see the clutches and shims up under the spider gears...the S spring is what puts pressure on the clutch pack...
Here is the FRPP Trak-loc rebuild kit....clutches and shims and bolt
Pinion gear with shim....puller used to remove the pinion bearing (right)
95riosnake
Member
RIO5.0 said:Its Fords version of a posi (GM term) dif unit..
Here's the dif...you can see the clutches and shims up under the spider gears...the S spring is what puts pressure on the clutch pack...
Here is the FRPP Trak-loc rebuild kit....clutches and shims and bolt
Pinion gear with shim....puller used to remove the pinion bearing (right)
Once again, you have pics for everything!
OK..I dont mean to sound like an a$$ but dude i need the whole 9 yards..I called a shop to have them installed and they gave me a quote of $250 for labor. Im not sure of what should be rebuilt, replaced or even considered..The guy said something like he suggested bearings or something?? I am trying to get these things put in while trying not to come out of my pocket as much as possible. What are the smart things to have done while the new gears are put in so i dont have to work on it later, and which parts in there are most likely up for replacement? Thank you guys so much
if you are going to do gears to then by all means go all out.
however for just doing the cluches you can stay away from alot of that extra work. first, do a burnout to make sure your t/l is actually burnt. then try just replacing the fluid with some fresh 80/90w oil and some friction modifier. sometimes that helps alot, it is always good to check the cheap fixes first. then, if it is still nessesary to do the cluches, do a thread search !!!NO WAIT I FORGOT DATABASE IS GONE!!!! just post up and someone will assist you furthur with replacement
however for just doing the cluches you can stay away from alot of that extra work. first, do a burnout to make sure your t/l is actually burnt. then try just replacing the fluid with some fresh 80/90w oil and some friction modifier. sometimes that helps alot, it is always good to check the cheap fixes first. then, if it is still nessesary to do the cluches, do a thread search !!!NO WAIT I FORGOT DATABASE IS GONE!!!! just post up and someone will assist you furthur with replacement
Read away...Search for write-up's to get the skinny...This ones good...
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
http://www.corral.net/tech/drivetrain/gears.html
