Universals

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Getting a vibration from a stop and figure it's the universal. Are there any write-ups on the removal/installation for this or should it be pretty straight-forward?:shrug:

Any special tools I should have? Any input is appreciated.
 
Did you mean U-Joint?

If so, its pretty easy. Have BenchVice, and 22mm, and 12mm socket. And something to take off snap ring. Make sure to get greasble u-joint too

I'm sure you know how to take driveshaft off?
 
Yeah, guess I should have included the joint part ;)

Yeah, dropping the driveshaft isn't a problem.

The transmission was out not too long ago (getting rebuilt and other things) so it won't be the first time pulling the DS.
 
I guess i'll be doing this during the weekend :)

I was just curious on a install price so I called a local place and they said it'd be $75, so I'll just take some time and do it myself to save cash.
 
So i'm going to pick up the parts today. Of course I am attempting to keep the price low, though the u-joint that I am getting is stated as "WITH 1.063" BEARING CAPS. HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" Sound about right?

I have the benchvise and should have all sockets, but for the final time I'll ask the question. Is there anything else that I need? With the car tore down I won't be able to goto the store to buy extra parts.
 
I cooked my last 'lubed for life' u-joints. I traded them in for the cheaper alternatives that had zert fittings on them, and they are holding up great. If they feel fine on your driveshaft, like no slop or noise, then I would try unbolting the shaft from the diff flange, and spin it a bit, and remount. If it's for sure bad u-joints, then make sure you mark the original position of the shaft to the flange, so you can mount it back up in the same position.
 
I'm not for certain since I haven't really got under there to check though the car does have 135k+ on it so it's about time anyways and for under $20, can't really hurt.

It could really be "loose" bolts since I wasn't the one which re-installed the DS when the 7r40w was put back in after the rebuild.

The vibration gets noticeable while going up a steep hill (damn driveway :nonono: ) and at times it'll happen from a stop while speeding up slowly.
 
well, since U joints are fairly easy to do, you may as well take care of it as a preventative measure. Mine could have waited bc they werent giving symptoms of wear, but when i pulled them out the roller bearings were completely demolished.
 
This is not directly relevant but I thought I'd throw it out there ... I have never done my U-Joints on my Mustang but when I did them on my Ranger, I had to go buy a bigger vice (had to open like 6 or 7 inches, can't exactly remember) in order to get the U-Joint and two sockets in the vice, to press them out. Just make sure that your vice will open at least like 6 inches ... Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 
DTNODYA said:
This is not directly relevant but I thought I'd throw it out there ... I have never done my U-Joints on my Mustang but when I did them on my Ranger, I had to go buy a bigger vice (had to open like 6 or 7 inches, can't exactly remember) in order to get the U-Joint and two sockets in the vice, to press them out. Just make sure that your vice will open at least like 6 inches ... Someone correct me if I'm wrong.

that sounds about right
 
Thats the kinda information I am looking for :nice: I'd hate to have everything tore down then be forced to call some people up to get them to bring me things :nonono:

Since they are so cheap, even if they aren't the main problem, I'll replace them to avoid problems later on.

30 minutes to an hour sound about right for the job?
 
Just make sure not to let any of the needle bearings fall down when you are installing the end caps. It can and will happen if you're not careful. I worked in the D/S dept. for Ford for almost 4 years and it can happen and you'll still be able to get the snap rings in.

If you're the slightest bit mechanicallly inclined, you should be able to change u-joints.
 
d98gt said:
Thats the kinda information I am looking for :nice: I'd hate to have everything tore down then be forced to call some people up to get them to bring me things :nonono:

Since they are so cheap, even if they aren't the main problem, I'll replace them to avoid problems later on.

30 minutes to an hour sound about right for the job?

I'd plan on two hours and if you get done earlier, word.

To get the snap rings out easier, spray em' with some PB blaster if they are a bitch to get off. Also, when you press the new ones in, be sure not to over-press them. Get em' where you can put the snap ring in but not much more.
 
Have you thought of just buying an aluminum d/s complete with u joints, could loose some lbs off of your drive train and solve your problem with less work required, down side being the added cost of the aluminum d/s. I would go for the aluminum d/s, just my 2 cents.:flag:
 
Already have the PB Blaster sitting next to me. I love this stuff :nice:

I'll have someone helping me, which is great since I am somewhat limited currently due to a broken bone in the foot that is healing :nonono:

We'll be starting in the early hours before the Texas heat is able to own our asses :nonono:
 
Rickyll7 said:
Have you thought of just buying an aluminum d/s complete with u joints, could loose some lbs off of your drive train and solve your problem with less work required, down side being the added cost of the aluminum d/s. I would go for the aluminum d/s, just my 2 cents.:flag:

$30 sounds better than $300 :p

15 second cars don't need a alum ds :rlaugh: