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  • 1996 - 2004 SN95 Mustang -General/Talk-
  • SN95 4.6L Mustang Tech

Universals

  • Thread starter Thread starter d98gt
  • Start date Start date Jul 9, 2006

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 9, 2006
#1
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #1
Getting a vibration from a stop and figure it's the universal. Are there any write-ups on the removal/installation for this or should it be pretty straight-forward?

Any special tools I should have? Any input is appreciated.
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
Jul 9, 2006
#2
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #2
Did you mean U-Joint?

If so, its pretty easy. Have BenchVice, and 22mm, and 12mm socket. And something to take off snap ring. Make sure to get greasble u-joint too

I'm sure you know how to take driveshaft off?
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
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204
SE Texas
Jul 9, 2006
#3
  • Jul 9, 2006
  • #3
Yeah, guess I should have included the joint part

Yeah, dropping the driveshaft isn't a problem.

The transmission was out not too long ago (getting rebuilt and other things) so it won't be the first time pulling the DS.
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 10, 2006
#4
  • Jul 10, 2006
  • #4
I guess i'll be doing this during the weekend

I was just curious on a install price so I called a local place and they said it'd be $75, so I'll just take some time and do it myself to save cash.
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 12, 2006
#5
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #5
So i'm going to pick up the parts today. Of course I am attempting to keep the price low, though the u-joint that I am getting is stated as "WITH 1.063" BEARING CAPS. HEAVY DUTY U-JOINT -- LUBRICATED FOR LIFE WITH SYNTHETIC LITHIUM GREASE" Sound about right?

I have the benchvise and should have all sockets, but for the final time I'll ask the question. Is there anything else that I need? With the car tore down I won't be able to goto the store to buy extra parts.
 

Shiroelex

There's nothing worse than aut
Founding Member
Aug 23, 2001
728
1
27
Westland, MI
Jul 12, 2006
#6
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #6
I cooked my last 'lubed for life' u-joints. I traded them in for the cheaper alternatives that had zert fittings on them, and they are holding up great. If they feel fine on your driveshaft, like no slop or noise, then I would try unbolting the shaft from the diff flange, and spin it a bit, and remount. If it's for sure bad u-joints, then make sure you mark the original position of the shaft to the flange, so you can mount it back up in the same position.
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
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204
SE Texas
Jul 12, 2006
#7
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #7
I'm not for certain since I haven't really got under there to check though the car does have 135k+ on it so it's about time anyways and for under $20, can't really hurt.

It could really be "loose" bolts since I wasn't the one which re-installed the DS when the 7r40w was put back in after the rebuild.

The vibration gets noticeable while going up a steep hill (damn driveway ) and at times it'll happen from a stop while speeding up slowly.
 

stangGT97

New Member
Dec 22, 2004
1,299
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0
Boston area, MA
Jul 12, 2006
#8
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #8
well, since U joints are fairly easy to do, you may as well take care of it as a preventative measure. Mine could have waited bc they werent giving symptoms of wear, but when i pulled them out the roller bearings were completely demolished.
 

DTNODYA

Member
Dec 15, 2005
831
1
16
Jul 12, 2006
#9
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #9
This is not directly relevant but I thought I'd throw it out there ... I have never done my U-Joints on my Mustang but when I did them on my Ranger, I had to go buy a bigger vice (had to open like 6 or 7 inches, can't exactly remember) in order to get the U-Joint and two sockets in the vice, to press them out. Just make sure that your vice will open at least like 6 inches ... Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
 

stangGT97

New Member
Dec 22, 2004
1,299
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0
Boston area, MA
Jul 12, 2006
#10
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #10
DTNODYA said:
This is not directly relevant but I thought I'd throw it out there ... I have never done my U-Joints on my Mustang but when I did them on my Ranger, I had to go buy a bigger vice (had to open like 6 or 7 inches, can't exactly remember) in order to get the U-Joint and two sockets in the vice, to press them out. Just make sure that your vice will open at least like 6 inches ... Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
Click to expand...

that sounds about right
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 12, 2006
#11
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #11
Thats the kinda information I am looking for I'd hate to have everything tore down then be forced to call some people up to get them to bring me things

Since they are so cheap, even if they aren't the main problem, I'll replace them to avoid problems later on.

30 minutes to an hour sound about right for the job?
 
T

Torinalth

Founding Member
Jul 16, 2002
952
0
16
Clayton NC
Jul 12, 2006
#12
  • Jul 12, 2006
  • #12
sounds about right... i have the same thing, and same milage... though i think mine may be a warped flywheel... i'm doing mine in a week or so when i get off my ass.

Torinalth
 

Cobra Jay

Member
Apr 7, 2004
889
0
16
Motor City
Jul 13, 2006
#13
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #13
Just make sure not to let any of the needle bearings fall down when you are installing the end caps. It can and will happen if you're not careful. I worked in the D/S dept. for Ford for almost 4 years and it can happen and you'll still be able to get the snap rings in.

If you're the slightest bit mechanicallly inclined, you should be able to change u-joints.
 

DTNODYA

Member
Dec 15, 2005
831
1
16
Jul 13, 2006
#14
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #14
d98gt said:
Thats the kinda information I am looking for I'd hate to have everything tore down then be forced to call some people up to get them to bring me things

Since they are so cheap, even if they aren't the main problem, I'll replace them to avoid problems later on.

30 minutes to an hour sound about right for the job?
Click to expand...

I'd plan on two hours and if you get done earlier, word.

To get the snap rings out easier, spray em' with some PB blaster if they are a bitch to get off. Also, when you press the new ones in, be sure not to over-press them. Get em' where you can put the snap ring in but not much more.
 

Rickyll7

Member
Dec 16, 2005
718
4
19
Jul 13, 2006
#15
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #15
Have you thought of just buying an aluminum d/s complete with u joints, could loose some lbs off of your drive train and solve your problem with less work required, down side being the added cost of the aluminum d/s. I would go for the aluminum d/s, just my 2 cents.
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 13, 2006
#16
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #16
Already have the PB Blaster sitting next to me. I love this stuff

I'll have someone helping me, which is great since I am somewhat limited currently due to a broken bone in the foot that is healing

We'll be starting in the early hours before the Texas heat is able to own our asses
 

d98gt

Founding Member
Mar 14, 2002
4,505
59
204
SE Texas
Jul 13, 2006
#17
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #17
Rickyll7 said:
Have you thought of just buying an aluminum d/s complete with u joints, could loose some lbs off of your drive train and solve your problem with less work required, down side being the added cost of the aluminum d/s. I would go for the aluminum d/s, just my 2 cents.
Click to expand...

$30 sounds better than $300

15 second cars don't need a alum ds
 

mity2

I like Pro3 and all I got was this crappy CT.
Jul 24, 2003
2,872
3
48
StateCollege PA
Jul 13, 2006
#18
  • Jul 13, 2006
  • #18
d98gt said:
15 second cars don't need a alum ds
Click to expand...

So true. I have mine because i got deal. I wouldn't have bought it otherwise
 
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