Electrical Unused Fused causing intermittent drain?

5.0Droptop · Feb 13, 2013

If the alt is new get it replaced under warranty. Charge the battery and hook it up.

5.0Droptop · Feb 13, 2013

Test light tells u there is voltage there. The fuses you were testing are supposed to have constant voltage.

You took those out so you have eliminated those circuits as the culprit.

You have a bad alt is my opinion.

Mr_Q · Feb 13, 2013

The alt does charge the battery though, quite well actually. But I guess I could swap it again.

5.0Droptop · Feb 13, 2013

5.0Droptop · Feb 13, 2013

It will still charge.

Charge the battery full before hooking up the new alt.

5.0Droptop · Feb 13, 2013

Some people have said the alt will feel warm even when the car has been sitting when the diodes stop functioning properly. I never noticed it.

Saleen0679 · Feb 13, 2013

Here's the 93 fuse box diagram. There are none specific to a convertible. You just have to know what your model has or does not have. There are enough differences that no single diagram covers 87-93.

Bill Gordon · Feb 13, 2013

The diode inside the alternator could be bad. A diode is an electrical "check valve", allowing current to flow in one direction only. Parts store can check this for you if you bring the alternator to them. You can't check current draw with a test light or a volt meter. The best way to check for current draw is to use a clamp on meter that reads DC amps. With the key off, clamp it around the positive battery cable and see how many amps the system is pulling. Then you can clamp each circuit behind the fuse panel individually to see where the current is going. Hope this helps.

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

INstalled the new alternator last night. Positive side is that this one is charging hotter. Getting a better current from it. Sad news, battery still drains.

Couple notes...

The drain is JUST enough to cause the car not to start. Put leads on the battery and its 10.5volts. When I use my jump starter pack it uses almost ZERO juice from it. I've jumped the car FIVE TIMES now and the needle has only now begun to dip a littler lower from GREEN towards yellow.

My starter solenoid i sgoing bad. I know they either work or don't. Mine is doing exactly that. Key on, turn, CLUNK, no start. Key on again, click start. Sometimes I get to CLUNK situations first.

Could a bad solenoid be a drain source?

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

I forgot, on 1993s the actual start relay is ON the starter. The relay up top is the same device used in earlier models as the start but it's not the actual start relay. It relays to the starter relay. Heh.

So I will try and eliminate it first. I'll connect my meter, jump the terminals and see if I get 12volts when it goes CLUNK. If that's the case then I know its the relay on the starter.

5.0Droptop · Feb 14, 2013

Have your battery tested. Maybe it has a bad cell.

5.0Droptop · Feb 14, 2013

On a 93 If the solenoid was sticking it would crank constantly..... i think.

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

Nah battery is brand new and holds it's charge when out of the system. Clean numbers from it passive and active. Something in this car is pulling current. I need to get a real meter and do a proper amperage test. But first I need to get this starter and or starter relay issue resolved to at least eliminate it as a cause.

5.0Droptop · Feb 14, 2013

Its possible that the starter has a short in it. You could disconnect the main power wire going to the starter and see if the battery stays charged.

5.0Droptop · Feb 14, 2013

If i recall correctly. The main power wire stays hot all the time on the 93. And the solenoid just triggers the starter.

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

Yeah Im going to put my meter on the dead side of the relay, and ground the meter to the car, then jump the hot side with the post in the middle (this will start the car) and see if I get a clean 12v to the other post. If I do, then the clunk is most likely the relay down below on the starter. If the clunk comes from the fender relay and I don't get 12v or just get a quick 12v and then nothing, then I'll know it's bad. Of course that still doesn't mean it's the cause of my drain. Will have to do the amperage test for that.

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

And yeah after that test, the next will be to disconnect the power lead going down to the starter and see if it still drains. However until I do the amperage tests, none this could matter. Since multiple systems could be causing the drain. I really wish I had what I needed to get the fuse testing out of the way. My buddy is out of town this week, and it will have to wait. Still, if I do these two tests and the battery stops draining...YAY! (but I ain't counting on it)

Bill Gordon · Feb 14, 2013

Mr_Q said:
Nah battery is brand new and holds it's charge when out of the system. Clean numbers from it passive and active. Something in this car is pulling current. I need to get a real meter and do a proper amperage test. But first I need to get this starter and or starter relay issue resolved to at least eliminate it as a cause.

Make sure the clamp meter you get can read DC amps, usually the cheaper ones don't have that ability. When you get some readings, post 'em and we'll try and help.

Mr_Q · Feb 14, 2013

Alright found my draw...check it out...

Traced it as a fusible link. It's hacked in to a two wire line that runs down to the frame under the battery. This is a 4amp draw. With it out and all other fuses "in" I have ZERO draw. Now what link is it? Can I run the car with out it? Heh.

Bill Gordon · Feb 14, 2013

Mr_Q said:
Alright found my draw...check it out...

Traced it as a fusible link. It's hacked in to a two wire line that runs down to the frame under the battery. This is a 4amp draw. With it out and all other fuses "in" I have ZERO draw. Now what link is it? Can I run the car with out it? Heh.

Are you talking about the red and yellow wires in the pic?

Electrical Unused Fused causing intermittent drain?

5.0Droptop

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