upgrading alternator

scaryclown34 · May 12, 2007

i have a 95 gt convertible.

if i upgrade my alternator to 150 or 160 amp do i need to replace any wires or is it safe to just hook it up with the stock wires?

the alt in there now is 130 right so i think it should be alright but if someone can tell me than great.

True 5.0 · May 12, 2007

The maximum rating for the stock 4 gauge wire is 135 amps. 3 gauge handles 158 amps and 2 gauge handles 181.

You might be able to get away with not changing your wire, but there is also the fusible link to deal with.

I'm running a 200 amp alternator with 2 gauge and I have no problems. I did have to add a 200 amp fuse block, however.

HISSIN50 · May 12, 2007

I agree with True 5.0. You don't want to use that crappy stock cable even when running the OEM alternator.

Just ensure that you fuse your system for the weakest link. I.e. If you have a 4 AWG cable and 160 amp alt, choose a fuse for the cable since it has the lesser rating.

Good luck.

Car Nut · May 12, 2007

I just upgraded to the 130 amp by PA Performance and used their upgraded cable that had the fuse link already attached to the cable. The PA alternator actually puts out more amps than the same rated stocker.

I'm pretty sure our stock alternator cable is a 6 guage cable. I was trying to put on a new connector on the stock cable and the only connectors that fit snug was the 6 guage size (the 4 guage size was too large for sure).

The upgraded cable does not inlcude the two connectors for the voltage regulator. If you need those replaced, you may need to find a solution for that. Ford no longer sells/makes the alternator wire assembly for our cars (per my local Ford dealer).

Even if you stay with a stock replacement alternator..........definitely replace the main cable with a bigger one.

HISSIN50 · May 12, 2007

You can get a new regulator connector from resto houses. FFI sells a nice beefy version that I'll probably use next time.

Car Nut · May 12, 2007

HISSIN50 said:
You can get a new regulator connector from resto houses. FFI sells a nice beefy version that I'll probably use next time.

Have you ever seen one that replaces the whole stock regulator connections? Length seems to be a big issue and so does the connection on the opposite end. From what I've seen so far, it looks like splicing in new connectors may be the best bet.

If you've got a specific link, please post. Thanks.

What does FFI stand for?

HISSIN50 · May 12, 2007

FFI = FordFuelInjection.com

I have not seen an entire regulator connector and harness kit. It would be easy enough to run new wires one's self if desired.

That is one kind of neat thing about the FFI connector. As I recall, of the 3 regulator wires, it requires you to only retain one - the OEM ignition wire (which sure would be easy enough to renew if it is vulcanized. You WOULD however need to use this same circuit-source since it runs through the amp light [and has a 500 ohm resistor in parallel with the bulb]).

Good luck.

scaryclown34 · May 13, 2007

well, it turns out that my alternator tested good at autozone but it looks like my stator wire is not connected. i guess thats why my red battery light is on. what should i do? can i solder the wire together where it connects.

the 2 plastic ends dont clip together anymore. and a black substance was inside the end that comes off of the alt. what does that mean?

HISSIN50 · May 13, 2007

The stator wire loops. Which part is bad - the single wire connector it's grey and has it's own slot) or the wire where it is in the regulator plug?

In any case, yes you can solder the wire back together if the wire itself is broken.
Otherwise, I'd still get a new regulator plug - something is up with yours.

In a pinch you can use an insulated spade connector for the single stator wire if you need to.

The stator circuit should show about 1/2 battery voltage as I recall (so you know what's going on with it). There is also an alternator fuse in the underhood fusebox.

Good luck.

scaryclown34 · May 13, 2007

the single gray wire is not connected.

HISSIN50 · May 14, 2007

scaryclown34 said:
the single gray wire is not connected.

That's an easy enough fix then.

FWIW, you can even buy a new stator wire for a few bucks from resto houses.

Good luck.

scaryclown34 · May 15, 2007

i fixed the wire and i checked my fuses in the engine compartement. i keep blowing the 20 amp one for the alternator thats inside the engine compartment

does that mean that i have to replace the alternator?

if not then what does it mean.

HISSIN50 · May 15, 2007

scaryclown34 said:
i fixed the wire and i checked my fuses in the engine compartement. i keep blowing the 20 amp one for the alternator thats inside the engine compartment

does that mean that i have to replace the alternator?

if not then what does it mean.

I'd look for a short or chafing in the white/yellow wire. If this fuse blows, the alt doesn't know what's going on and the regulator won't work right.

Good luck.

scaryclown34 · May 16, 2007

someone told me that becuse my car has an internal voltage regulator then maybe the alt will pass the test at autozone but the regulator could be not working properly.

so. i went to autozone and bought a new alt to try out. i was gonna take it home and change it at my house.

the thing is though when i went to start my car, it wouldnt start. so luckily i had some tools with me and i changed my alternator right in the parking lot while they recharged my battery inside.

then, like a douchebag, when i went to put my battery back in i had it the wrong way so i wound up connecting the positive cable to the negative terminal and vice versa. i guess i wound up blowing some fuses doing this cause now my radio doesnt work and neither does my speedometer or clock. i also shocked my hand slightly.

right now its raining and i dont feel like going outside and pulling fuses. but i drove all the way home without having the red battery light come on and the battery meter voltage is quite high so hopefully i fixed the problem while only causing a newer lesser problem of changing fuses.

True 5.0 · May 16, 2007

scaryclown34 said:
i fixed the wire and i checked my fuses in the engine compartement. i keep blowing the 20 amp one for the alternator thats inside the engine compartment

does that mean that i have to replace the alternator?

if not then what does it mean.

I had the same problem but I fixed it. I replaced the brushes and regulator with a new set and all is good.

scaryclown34 · May 17, 2007

it turns out i only blew one of the 10 amp fuses in the instrument panel. i replaced it and now everything is back to normal. i only drove to work and to white castle but my batt voltage is still good and no red batt light came on. i guess that changing the alt. was what was needed.

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