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  • 1979 - 1995 (Fox, SN95.0, & 2.3L) -General/Talk-

Upgrading The Suspension

  • Thread starter Thread starter knightmare90
  • Start date Start date Apr 13, 2010

knightmare90

New Member
Mar 7, 2010
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San Antonio, Texas
Apr 13, 2010
#1
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #1
I keep hearing that's a really good idea to upgrade your suspension. So what should I get and can I do one piece at a time? That way I'm not killing the bank account all at once. The car had Eibach lowering springs on it when I got the car.

Thanks for any advice in advance. I'm thankful you guys don't treat me like crap for asking questions such as this
 

TrueBlue95GT

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Sep 29, 2003
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Apr 13, 2010
#2
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #2
Shocks and rear control arms do a world of difference. Get subframe connectors too
 

Adam95GT

New Member
Aug 14, 2006
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Burlington, NJ
Apr 13, 2010
#3
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #3
Shocks defiantly if your running stock shocks with eibachs...
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
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Apr 13, 2010
#4
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #4
It's cheaper to do it all at once.

In this order:
Shocks/Struts
Rear Lower Control Arms
Rear Upper control arms
Subrfame connectors

Kurt
 

knightmare90

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Mar 7, 2010
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Apr 13, 2010
#5
  • Apr 13, 2010
  • #5
revhead347 said:
It's cheaper to do it all at once.

In this order:
Shocks/Struts
Rear Lower Control Arms
Rear Upper control arms
Subrfame connectors

Kurt
Click to expand...

Why is it cheaper? For labor reasons?

Daniel
 
T

thethirdeye88

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Apr 22, 2008
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paragould arkansas
Apr 14, 2010
#6
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #6
shocks and lower control arms...quad shocks if you dont have resistance in the stockers...alum steering rack bushings, $50 at maximum motorsports, if your steering is floaty...its fairly cheap and a good investment thats overlooked...
 

Husky44

10 Year Member
Sep 27, 2006
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Tacoma, WA
Apr 14, 2010
#7
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #7
Just re-did mine. Already had my Eibach springs, but was running stock shocks/struts. Also already had the MM CC plates.

Added Eibach Pro-Dampers on all 4 corners, MM rear LCAs, and subframes.

It handles like a totally different car. Take care of your dampers first, to get those matched up to your lowering springs. Then I'd go to the LCAs. All of that you can do yourself with minimal tools. Subframes you'll have to farm out, unless you've got your own welder, so they'll cost more. I can't tell you what will give you best bang for your buck, between LCAs or subframes, but the damping difference is EXTREMELY noticeable, and probably the best SOTP improvement from what you're running now.

I'm sure there more exotic improvements will make an even bigger difference, but for what I do with my car, I can't see doing much more for a street car.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
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68
Indianapolis, IN
Apr 14, 2010
#8
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #8
knightmare90 said:
Why is it cheaper? For labor reasons?

Daniel
Click to expand...

Yes for labor reasons. Subframe connectors are not included in that tho. For the others, you will be going back into the same area multiple times...which means paying for the same labor multiple times. But with labor, shocks/struts/control arms you are looking at almost $1,000. Changing these things out is so simple...unbolt....bolt back in....i'd say to do it yourself. Which drastically reduces the cost.


Since you dont want to do it all at once, i'd say do the shocks/struts. Then do either subframes or the rear upper/lower control arms. Then do whichever one u havent done yet.


Make sure you get full length subframe connectors. If you're on a local "car" board, ask those guys for a recommended shop. Otherwise get some full length subframes from Maximum Motorsports and get them welded on. Make sure the shop puts the cars on a "drive on" ramp...the suspension needs to be loaded before welding on the subframes.
 
D

davis1d0

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Mar 4, 2010
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Apr 14, 2010
#9
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #9
nmcgrawj said:
Yes for labor reasons. Subframe connectors are nBut with labor, shocks/struts/control arms you are looking at almost $1,000. Changing these things out is so simple...unbolt....bolt back in....i'd say to do it yourself. Which drastically reduces the cost.
Click to expand...

Just if your doing it yourself soak the bolts with a lube or rust remover, take it from me not doing that can really hurt.

I ended up punching my inner wheel well when the bolt finally let loose.
 

knightmare90

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San Antonio, Texas
Apr 14, 2010
#10
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #10
I'll probably do the shocks and control arms myself. I also have a good friend who helps me whenever something goes wrong so I should be covered.
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
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68
Indianapolis, IN
Apr 14, 2010
#11
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #11
X2 on soaking the bolts! Penetrating oil FTW!

My worst injuries came from doing my suspension work. :bang
 

knightmare90

New Member
Mar 7, 2010
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San Antonio, Texas
Apr 14, 2010
#12
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #12
I'll be sure and use penetrating oil! Thanks for the tips!
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
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Acworth, GA
Apr 14, 2010
#13
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #13
Everytime you tear up the front suspension you have to do an alignment on the car. So even if you do it yourself, you're out the cost of an alignment. Unless you do your own alignments.

Kurt
 

knightmare90

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Mar 7, 2010
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Apr 14, 2010
#14
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #14
Yeah I'll definitely hit up discount tire for an alignment when I'm done.

I must admit this is the most I've worked on a car, but I've already learned a bunch from this forum. I actually just replaced my wheel hub last week, and I got the info from right here. So thanks gents!

Daniel
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Apr 14, 2010
#15
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #15
I've never seen a Discount Tire that does alignments.

Kurt
 

Husky44

10 Year Member
Sep 27, 2006
865
104
74
Tacoma, WA
Apr 14, 2010
#16
  • Apr 14, 2010
  • #16
revhead347 said:
Everytime you tear up the front suspension you have to do an alignment on the car. So even if you do it yourself, you're out the cost of an alignment. Unless you do your own alignments.

Kurt
Click to expand...

If all you're doing is new struts, I don't think an alignment is necessary...

Just replaced mine, didn't do the alignment. Checked here for the consensus, which supported my theory, and so far SOTP/tire wear confirms that I didn't need it.

Thinking: Struts shouldn't change steering geometry, since they just dampen the movement of the a-arms. Changing SPRINGS will effect steering geometry/alignment, since you're changing ride height.

Am I missing something?

Now, if you add some CC plates, THEN you definitely need an alignment. At that point, I'd recommend doing some homework, to find out who the local speed shops and boards recommend for aligning a modified suspension. I would NEVER let a random chain store do my alignment. Around here, I go to the BMW dealer--they've got the best machine in town, a technician who knows how to run it well, and they're the shop of choice for all the car guys I've talked to.
 

revhead347

Apparently my ex-husband made that mistake.
20+ Year Stangneter
Jun 14, 2004
9,289
1,632
214
Acworth, GA
Apr 15, 2010
#17
  • Apr 15, 2010
  • #17
In theory, you should be able to change struts without an alignment. But the real world sometimes doesn't agree.

Kurt
 

nmcgrawj

Advanced Member
Sep 28, 2003
3,651
4
68
Indianapolis, IN
Apr 15, 2010
#18
  • Apr 15, 2010
  • #18
revhead347 said:
In theory, you should be able to change struts without an alignment. But the real world sometimes doesn't agree.

Kurt
Click to expand...

His real world agrees.
 
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