Upper Control Arm CLUNK - This may be your problem!?

Maximum Motorsports, HPM, Ford Motorsport and BBK have been really good items for me, you hear a lot of trash talking but you just have to stick with what you personally like.

We've seen good results with all of those, as well as Steeda and Griggs.

the key is getting a set-up matched to your car and use of it, and that's where most people go wrong and waste a lot of money on parts they either don't need or wish they didn't buy later.

If you spend more than about $500 or a street suspension, you either make too much money or love your credit card company a little too much.
 
We've seen good results with all of those, as well as Steeda and Griggs.

the key is getting a set-up matched to your car and use of it, and that's where most people go wrong and waste a lot of money on parts they either don't need or wish they didn't buy later.

If you spend more than about $500 or a street suspension, you either make too much money or love your credit card company a little too much.

or you don't know how to shop, either way a PHB is $250, and GOOD dampers and springs is close to a grand, add some quality LCA's and your into $1500, anyway you look at it you're spending between 1000-1500 on a good street suspension in which you're taking a factory drag car and making it more road worthy
 
I agree for the most part. Application is key for budgeting because you really don't need a PHB, or torque arm, or coilovers, or strut tower braces for a street application at all. But in the case with this Cobra, the officer wanted a car that he could chase down anyone in the straights or in the turns without sacrificing his safety, so I can see why he went with Griggs coilovers, all braces/connectors, etc.. Personally I'd hate to be darting into a turn at 100mph in a chase without these items, have the body roll be too great and end up nose diving off the road..

Even though this is the case for this car, it may not be for you.. I just started this thread to find out what was up with spherical bearings since I haven't really had any personal experience with them before this car. Good theory, great for the track, with the adjustability, just not that great as far as longetivity..

Thanks for all the posts, I finally got ahold of HPM and they sent me the rod ends for $12 a piece, I'll post up after I get them installed next week to let y'all know if they solved the clunking issues.
 
Well, HPM sent the rod end bearings regular ground so I'll get them in 2-4 weeks probably, so I just went to my local bearing distributor (Mequires Bearings, Honolulu) and purchased some LM10 5/8-18 rod end bearings, the only thing is that they had 5/8" eyelets so I had to get a sleeve to reduce them to 1/2". I got them replaced, had to shave the spacers a tiny bit because the bearing is actually a lot bigger than the ones that come with the HPM control arms, which in a way is good I think, a lot more bearing surface area to ride on, probably last a lot longer. Here's a couple pics of the new rod end bearings, oh and the clunk didn't go away entirely either, I'm thinking the pinion snubber is hitting a little as well. A lot of the clunking went away especially while shifting.
 

Attachments

  • newucabearing.webp
    newucabearing.webp
    31.6 KB · Views: 161
  • newucabearing2.webp
    newucabearing2.webp
    32 KB · Views: 144