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  • 2005 - 2014 S-197 Mustang -General/Talk-
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Upper Control Arm

  • Thread starter Thread starter Scotth13
  • Start date Start date Nov 26, 2016

Scotth13

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Jul 13, 2016
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Nov 26, 2016
#1
  • Nov 26, 2016
  • #1
I need some advice on picking an upper control arm for my mustang. The car is lowered 1.2 inches in the rear and 1 inch in the front. I am going to use the Roush non adjustable lower control arms with whiteline relocation brackets. I have researched upper control arms but most of the ones I have found say they increase interior noise and vibration. I am thinking of using the Roush standard upper control arm to reduce this. Any recommendations. Do I need to use an adjustable upper control arm or will the non adjustable work fine.
 

J&M Products

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Jan 22, 2007
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Paso Robles
Nov 28, 2016
#2
  • Nov 28, 2016
  • #2
More details on how you are going to use the car will help us guide you in the right way to go.
 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member
Nov 5, 2006
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Nov 28, 2016
#3
  • Nov 28, 2016
  • #3
CHE makes an adjustable upper. I have it on my personal car and no excess noise.
 

Scotth13

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Jul 13, 2016
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Nov 28, 2016
#4
  • Nov 28, 2016
  • #4
Most of the time the car will be driven normally. No drag strip or anything like that. Maybe some auto cross and track days. Nothing extreme.
 

Scotth13

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Jul 13, 2016
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Nov 28, 2016
#5
  • Nov 28, 2016
  • #5
Also I'm not sure how to set the diff angle correctly using an adjustable upper control arm.
 

SpartaPerformance

10 Year Member
Nov 5, 2006
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Long Island NY
Nov 29, 2016
#6
  • Nov 29, 2016
  • #6
The CHE arm is for street use, you can set it to factory length and just use the 2nd mounting hole for more aggressive launches.
 

Red_LX

I’m not much help unless you’re looking for ****!
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Nov 29, 1999
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Morgantown, WV...where couches meet their doom
Dec 6, 2016
#7
  • Dec 6, 2016
  • #7
I used a J&M fixed upper and their mount, I noticed no increase in noise or vibration. Honestly you might as well do the mount while you're in there, you have to drop the gas tank a little to install it and remove the rear seat but it's not too difficult, and it eliminates nthe possibility of the "clunking" you may get with the stock mount (I preferred going that route over using the anti-clunk bushings).
 

J&M Products

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Jan 22, 2007
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Paso Robles
Dec 7, 2016
#8
  • Dec 7, 2016
  • #8
With the autocross and heavy street use (cornering) you will need an arm that articulates well so you don't get bushing bind. If the bushings in the upper and lower arms bind it acts like a stiffer spring and will make the car want to oversteer when you are hard in the corners. Below is some information from our website that explains what happens with different bushings.

Lower Control Arms Mustang Street Performance the control arm bushings found in the Mustang automobiles can have a significant impact on the vehicle’s ride, comfort, handling, acceleration, noise and vibration. When the car leans (i.e., rolls) in a turn, one side of the chassis moves upward relative to the rear axle, the other side moves downward, and the control arms must twist to allow for the axle to articulate. This causes the control arm bushings to bind. If this bind becomes excessive, it will raise the rear wheel rate and produce sudden, uncontrolled, undesirable changes in handling (e.g., snap oversteer).

Ford minimizes this suspension bind by using compliant rubber bushings in both lower control arms. These relatively “soft” bushings help accommodate the necessary motion of the control arms during body roll. However, the rubber bushings do not provide much in the way of forward and aft support, which can cause wheel hop during hard acceleration and braking.

It has become common practice to replace the stock rubber control arm bushings with solid or two piece polyurethane bushings to resolve the shortcomings of the soft rubber bushings. Hard polyurethane bushings eliminate wheel hop, reduce axle deflection, and improve rear straight line grip. However, the downside of common aftermarket bushings such as delrin, steel, stiffer rubber, solid or two piece polyurethane bushings is they prevent the necessary movement of the control arms during body roll, which in turn produces significant binding in the suspension when the vehicle is cornering. The polyurethane bushings also place unnecessary high stresses on the torque boxes, which are the attachment points for the control arms to the chassis. Standard aftermarket control arms do not allow for rotation of the control arm during cornering because of the stiffness of the bushings.

Lower Control Arms Mustang Street Performance

3 Piece Poly-Ball Bushing on Chassis & Axle Side

The Solution:

We at J&M Products designed and built a tubular lower control arm which will eliminate the unwanted uncontrolled control arm flex. Round tubing is harder to work with but has many other advantages over square or rectangular tubing. It is stronger in bending, torsion, and also lighter than square or rectangular tubing.

We then solved the shortcomings of the factory rubber and other aftermarket polyurethane and stiffer rubber bushings. This was accomplished with our Patent Pending 3 piece Poly-Ball bushing combination. By spending countless hours looking and dissecting the geometry and the need of the rear suspension we come out with bind-free bushings set up. Our Patent Pending Poly-Ball bushing combination incorporates a very hard inner polyurethane ball which is surrounded by soft socket outer cups. This combination allows the bushing to articulate like a spherical bearing during cornering but the hard inner ball does not allow the bushing to deflect during acceleration giving you great traction during acceleration like solid bushings but remains completely bind free like a spherical bearing during cornering for great predictable traction in the corners. Lower Control Arms Mustang Street Performance by J&M greatly reduce the inherent issues with the factory bushing.

The Testing:

We built a fixture which simulated a factory control arm mounting and tested how much force was needed to make the control arm articulate (twist) in those mounts and the results where astounding.

Poly-Ball Bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 26.1 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 35.8 foot/pounds of torque

10 degrees of total rotation = 41.7 foot/pounds of torque

Standard 2 piece setup using only 85 durometer bushings:
5 degrees of total rotation = 124.7 foot/pounds of torque
7.5 degrees of total rotation = 156.4 foot/pounds of torque

10 degrees of total rotation = not measurable with fixture. The 1/2″ grade 8 bolt twisted in half at 9.2 degrees which was 210 foot/pounds of torque.
 
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