Upper Strut mounts.Where can I get these? ( Photo ) ....PITA this is !!

[MustangLX-5.0]

'92 LX Convertible 5.0
More suprises as usual...I say weeeee ..I must be having boatloads of fun...... NOT!!

A couple months back,I bought the entire Eibach Pro kit.That's springs,dampers,and swaybars.Now what they failed to mention is that the new Eibach struts didn't come with mounts for the strut towers.And not even in the included instructions for the dampers does it even say about obtaining upper strut mounts. Just to make some sence to a few people around here as to what I'm talking about,I added a photo of the factory strut removed from the car.This is of the upper mount.The Eibach comes with only the bushing and bolts etc.But,that lower plate with the 3 studs sticking out,the round black caps or whatever those things are that go above and below the large bushing...none of that is included.So I take it I'm supposed to removed that from the old strut? I tried,..........Yeah right is more like it.Can't turn that top nut without rotating the entire strut rod.Clamping Does no good either.Ended up leaving a crunch mark and breaking the C clamp. again

As usual...sorries for the long post.I just want to get this crap done.

Oh...One more question for those who are reading.Am I going to run into any more suprises on the rear springs/shocks? Thanks again.

 

[backfocus]

Well first off, you might want to go and get a Haynes or Clinton manual so you have a better understanding of what the parts are, it will help and describe the proper way to remove and replace things. The plate you are talking about is acttually the camber caster plate bottom and does not need to be removed to replace the struts.

The proper way to remove the strut would of been loosening the top nut with the car on the ground an impact wrench works great for this as a wrench will sometimes just help turn the whole strut. Then jack up the car and remove the strut by removing the lower bolts and finnally the nut completly, it will come right out then.

But since it is now out of the car you could cut the nut off with a dremel tool, becuase the new strut should have a new nut with it. An for the back shocks, make sure you soak the top nuts with PB several times. You still may have problems with it turn as well and a pair of pliers can be of assitant there.

Good luck.

Oh since you removed the CC plate you will need to get the car alinged now.

 

[stang&2Birds]

backfocus is correct. But, I'll add that different struts use different nuts up top. So, always use the nut that comes with the strut.

Also, you must load the strut (car on the ground, or a jack under the FCA (ball joint)) to get the nut off with an impact wrench. Electric impact wrenches work fine. That's what I use. My cheapo Harbor Fright Electric impact wrench kicks *SS!

 

[Mr Grim]

Might be time to consider upgrading your caster/camber plates since everything is apart and you will need to have the front re-aligned.

 

[MustangLX-5.0]

Thanks for the replies.
FYI..
I allready know how to remove/install the struts.I've done them before.Only thing is,when I bought new struts,they were for my daily driver and were stock replacement units.Stock replacements allready have the caster/camber plates and bumpstops installed.So I originally thought that all struts were supposed to come that way.

I have a Haynes manual (always have one for every car).Just couldn't find it to pick up the caster/camber plate ID.And last I recall,the manual only tells you how to remove and install the strut itself.It doesn't go into the details of removing the upper mount.Guess they assume it is allready installed (Like I did).

A Clinton manual??? Did someone just say Clinton? Yessir...I did not have sexual relations with that woman.... ... I don't think we need a manual for Bill Clinton.We allready know too much ... BTW it's Chiltons Manual.and i'm not too fond of Chiltons.

A guy I know that works at the dealership i'm at finally showed up today.He suggested I put the strut into a vice and squeeze over the dust boot on the rod, then use an impact gun to remove it.I did that and I got it off in less than 15 seconds.But now the dust boot is crimped.Kit only comes with 2 accordian style boots.So either those are for the rears or the rears don't get boots.

I've had LOTS of experience working on cars the past 7 years.Once I run into something new,(and on these Foxes there is always something new) I end up running into a situation where I need some new part or another damn tool and find myself asking half the guys in the shop.You'd be suprised what some of them don't know.And this is a big Ford Dealership.

As for the Caster/Camber plates.I doubt i'd go and spend $200 for a set of adjustable plates.Not worth it IMO.



Again,I really appreciate the help around here.

 

[HISSIN50]

If not mentioned, what has worked well for me is a long prybar (the ones which look like a long flat-head screwdriver but with a bend near the tip. Ouch). I put that in the slot (with the prybar oriented horizontally) and hold the strut rod while using a box-end wrench on the strut nut.

Good luck.

 

[ninety15.0]

Yup you did this job the hard way! Now you gotta get that sucker aligned too!

 

[bullitstang1313]

The dust boot should be used on the front struts. The rear shocks usually do not use a dust boot.

As for the Caster/Camber plates.I doubt i'd go and spend $200 for a set of adjustable plates.Not worth it IMO.

Since you are messing with overall geometry of the front suspension (by changing the spring rate) caster/camber plates are absolutely necessary in order to correctly align the front end. Setting the toe is not enough to correct the steering geometry. Caster will affect the returnability of your steering and the camber will affect your tire wear. I'd much rather spend the extra money now on the adjustable caster/camber plates than have to prematurely replace tires because of improper alignment.

 

[backfocus]

A Clinton manual??? Did someone just say Clinton? Yessir...I did not have sexual relations with that woman.... ... I don't think we need a manual for Bill Clinton.We allready know too much ... BTW it's Chiltons Manual.and i'm not too fond of Chiltons.

I was joking with you if you didn't get it, look where I live. No, I am not from here I just make fun whenever possible, he is hated here so much and we have his stupid library, or should I say glass trailer on stilts.

Sorry should have mentioned I was joking, but the big Chilton manual is not bad. I have found a combo of both the Haynes and Chilton will tell you most everything, because one will skip or not detail something the other does. An my Chilton does explain the top mount.

Good luck!

 

[HaynStang]

The dust boot should be used on the front struts. The rear shocks usually do not use a dust boot.



Since you are messing with overall geometry of the front suspension (by changing the spring rate) caster/camber plates are absolutely necessary in order to correctly align the front end. Setting the toe is not enough to correct the steering geometry. Caster will affect the returnability of your steering and the camber will affect your tire wear. I'd much rather spend the extra money now on the adjustable caster/camber plates than have to prematurely replace tires because of improper alignment.

Ditto... I'd get the c/c plates now because if you don't you're almost gauranteed to have to get them in the future... better to do it now than have to tear everything apart later on and pay for a second alignment.

I thought I could get away with no c/c plates since I only lowered my car an inch or so... nope... cost myself a pair of expensive tires, another alignment charge and a day and a half of my free time to make everything right. However, I found a good deal on a set of barely used MM c/c plates, so you don't need to spend the full $200 if you're willing to look around a bit.