upr upper control arms broke.

FoxRod87

Active Member
Feb 1, 2006
243
1
27
Carolina
has anyone ever had this happen. they are the pro streets. my buddy had them on his 03 mach and the only mods are gears and exhaust. so no crazy hp numbers. They broke at the track on a 1.8 60ft. we are thinking the bushings failed and then the rear end jumped back and broke the left control arm and cracked the right control arm and when the left control arm broke the rear end shifted and then the u joint broke and the driveshaft hit a couple of brake lines and a fuel line. This car hasn't been run down the track but a handful of times and it has never hooked. He is going to call upr today and see what they will do for him. so thanks for any input.
 
i had the bushings fail on me at the track i ripped both uppers and one lower. i swapped them out for the pro series ones. supposively when i call them and told them that mine broke after having them for like 3 weeks and i hardly drive my car. he said they are supposively only good for 300 hp and my car probably make like 290 hp. but i guess launching on slicks doesnt help
 
What part are you having trouble understanding?

The part about how he did not even need aftermarket UCAs or the part where I express disapproval about him tearing up his Mach by arbitrarily throwing unnecessary mods at it?

:scratch:

BTW this is tech, did you have a tech question?
 
well you might not need them but some cars do need them. It is according to what you want to do with the car. I see you are more worried about lights and wiper blades than performance. but anyway I thought it was pretty technical that the upper control arms broke. and you might need to get rid of your blue thunder shifter before it breaks or I'm sorry you don't drive your car hard enough to break anything. do ya?
 
Ya real good way to screw up the MACH. LOL

Well he will know next time to never buy anything UPR. I bought C/C plates from them and the spherical bearing in there was toast when i received them brand new. They clunked so bad.

It would be nice if they made good quality products, because the price is pretty decent.

I ovalled the holes in my granatelli uppers. They almost tore all the way through.
 
I would never put aftermarket uca's on my stang because they are known for ripping out the upper torque boxes & they cause severe bind. If u want a track only car u can run them, but you have to reinforce the torque boxes. The only recommend uppers are the FRPP ones, but they are a waste of money. I am eliminating my uppers all together & installing a MM torque arm.
 
I have never heard of upper control arms binding up. I thought it was a good mod. thing.

Here are a couple of quotes off the Maximum Motorsports website about upper control arm bind


In the stock four-link design, the rear upper control arms are trying to do two jobs at once. One is to control axle wind-up, the other is to locate the axle side to side. When pushed to the performance limit, the upper control arms don’t do either job very well.

When retaining the original four-link suspension, the best compromise between resistance to suspension bind, best control of axle position, best ride quality, and least potential damage to the chassis, is to retain rubber bushings in the rear upper control arms. This is especially important when adding a Panhard Bar. The compliance of a rubber-bushed upper control arm is required when a Panhard bar is added to the Mustang four-link suspension.

Most aftermarket rear control arms use hard 2-piece urethane bushings, Delrin bushings, or steel bushings. Those types of bushings do not allow the angularity needed for the Mustang’s suspension to articulate freely. The resulting suspension bind causes the rear tires to break loose very easily. Suspension bind not only causes poor handling and poor traction, but it also causes damage to the torque-boxes. As the attachment points on the chassis for the rear control arms, the torque-boxes can suffer greatly from the abuse of poorly designed control arm bushings. After all, the torque boxes are only made of folded sheet metal.

If your buddies car is drag only, I guess suspension bind doesnt matter much, but if its street driven, its important for the suspension to articulate
 
The pics are at the mach1registry.org in the in the brakes and suspension section. I have never heard of upper control arms binding up. I thought it was a good mod. And he does have torque box reinforcements and that is a good thing.

Ah, you gotta make me search for it!

attachment.php


I could care less if he had 300hp or 600hp Why buy someting this cheap for a limited rate by upr when they said it's only good for 300??

From upr's site:

Lighter, Stronger, and absolutely the best performing setup in the industry. Made from High Strength 4130 Chrome Moly.
We only use the best 4130 available and all our products are tig welded by top level chassis fabricators to ensure the utmost in quality consistentcy.

Made from High Strength Chrome Moly NOT Cheap Steel or Weak Aluminum like our competitors!
attachment.php


Looks like the weld never mated with the tube, that's a chinese welding craft :nice:

See why top racers are switching from: Wolfe, D&D, HP, MAximum, Steeda and many others,
to UPR's Untouchable Pro-Series Front & Rear Suspension Components!
:lol:
 
i spoke with a guy that is sponsered by UPR and he said something was up since they wouldnt talk to me and he said they have cancelled an upcoming FFW race. so... and to Kilgore Trout, u think im throwing mods at this car. lol. no i had just never seen any probs from UPR till after these. i can promise all parts were thought out for this car. and i know all the most cobra guys think their ***** dont stink. but uppers are very much needed on these cars. as one guy said he was goin with the torque arm which is good too. thats why chevy has had it for years, back when all the mustang guys made fun of them now they want one. but anyways, most all uppers they offer for these cars are all made the same. there is really only one way to go with them to be safe and thats with the solid adj, with rod ends. which i had at first but i kept havin issues with them on the street. so i tired these. not wise especially from UPR im aware of that now. but either way the stock uppers bushings are worse than these. and require a lot of neg. pinion angle. and their very flimbsy. i guess i shoulda bout some bosch wiper blades and some really cool headlights. whats that 03 cobra running? ur info paige said u have a 01 gt. do u have both or do u pretend the gt is a cobra?
 
i guess i shoulda bout some bosch wiper blades and some really cool headlights. whats that 03 cobra running? ur info paige said u have a 01 gt. do u have both or do u pretend the gt is a cobra?
Yeah, the headlights and wiper blades rock I get tons of compliments on them and they have never rendered my car inoperable... As for my Mustang its actually a V-6, I had GT badges on it but then I upgraded to the mad tyte snake badges :banana: keep that on the down low! :rlaugh:

Lets see some pics of the mullet! :nice:

Stock UCAs are fine unless you need to adjust pinion angle then get adjustable ones that are NOT UPR.
 
ahh thank u blubullet, there is still intelligent lifeform on here. talkin ***** has always been a part of racin and its all in fun, but there are just some people u just cant talk to. sorry Kilgore Trout no cameras round these parts to take pics with. but u still managed to avoid the ? i asked whats that car u got run? just go back to the parts store take off those bosch wipers (a mod u didnt need) and use rain-x. while ur hangin with the NOPI crowd us big boys will worry about gettin our cars to hook. and not buying from UPR.