UPR X-Pipe ... smog tube?

CoupedUp · Dec 13, 2005

'89 5.0 5spd

I plan on keeping the smog pump and plumbing on the car ... but running the UPR o/r X.

My question is:
There isn't a smog tube on the X to mount my hose onto

Do I just cap off the tube as it comes down under the firewall?

What affect, if any, does this have?
Will my car store a code for something wrong in the smog circuit?

What did you do .. any pics?

Thanks in advance

Dean85GT · Dec 13, 2005

Same question from me...I have a UPR x-pipe sitting in my basement....only difference is my car is an 85 and is carbed.

sgarlic · Dec 13, 2005

Right. If you can get to the back of the heads, you can remove the tube where it connects (don't recall the bolt sizes offhand) and plug it with a thermactor plug, or I guess there's a way to turn that stock piece around, but I haven't done that. Just pick a spot, and use some JB Weld to plug the tube where you make the cuts. You'll throw a code like secondary air system inoperative or something.. can't remember the code without looking in the book.

CoupedUp · Dec 13, 2005

sgarlic said:
Right. If you can get to the back of the heads, you can remove the tube where it connects (don't recall the bolt sizes offhand) and plug it with a thermactor plug, or I guess there's a way to turn that stock piece around, but I haven't done that. Just pick a spot, and use some JB Weld to plug the tube where you make the cuts. You'll throw a code like secondary air system inoperative or something.. can't remember the code without looking in the book.

Hmm, that is stupid ...
If it's goin to throw a code why would I use it.

Even their cat'd X-pipe is void of the pump tube that goes into the cats

Darkwriter77 · Dec 13, 2005

I've got the same exact year/motor/tranny as you, CoupedUp, and I'm running the cat'ed UPR X-pipe. Neither mine nor the off-road version have a provision for the smog pump's air tube. Since I need to leave my smog pump on for visual inspection, I left all the plumbing going back to the cylinder heads in place, since it's still technically a functional deal - still pumping air to the heads - but I left the smog tube unhooked. Unless a tech is REALLY looking closely enough to notice the tube, itself, isn't actually connected to anything at the exhaust, itself, they're likely to just go, "Okay, it's there, and the exhaust looks new," and wave it on to hook up to the sniffer. (The smog pump may help emissions, as far as pumping air into the cylinder heads goes, but it doesn't do jack for helping emissions in the cats, so no loss of function with that.)

If you don't have smog nazis in your neck of the woods to worry about, and you want to delete the smog pump, too, just cap the vacuum lines going to the check valves (or leave the valves attached to the line and zip-tie them up someplace out of the way, if ya' wanna), and put a big ol' fatty 3/4" rubber heater plug over the end of the tube going to the back of the heads. Supposedly (according to the articles I've seen on it), it's a snug enough fit that you don't need a clamp on top of that, but I'd put one on there, myself, just to be sure.

CoupedUp · Dec 13, 2005

Darkwriter77 said:
..... I'm running the cat'ed UPR X-pipe. ..........
..........If you don't have smog nazis in your neck of the woods ..........

Yeah, we definitely have smog nazis where I live in WA State.
I want to keep all the smog plumbing intact, so I can bolt the stock H back up when the 'every-2-years-emission-test' comes due.

I might even buy a piece of bent tubing and just weld it onto the X-pipe where the air tube should be ... make it work. Then all I'll have to do is drop and reinstall the mid-pipe when testing comes due

5.0 Nostalgia · Dec 13, 2005

CoupedUp said:
Yeah, we definitely have smog nazis where I live in WA State.
I want to keep all the smog plumbing intact, so I can bolt the stock H back up when the 'every-2-years-emission-test' comes due.

I might even buy a piece of bent tubing and just weld it onto the X-pipe where the air tube should be ... make it work. Then all I'll have to do is drop and reinstall the mid-pipe when testing comes due

That's what I was thinking. You can probably cut a hole in the pipe and weld on an extension. I just took mine out and took my smog pump off. When I had to go to emissions, I just put eveything back on.

Darkwriter77 · Dec 13, 2005

Nothin' says you couldn't just leave the metal downpipe of the smog pump and all else in place, just remove the hose where it connects to the stock H-pipe. Then, just swap in the stocker for testing and be green for awhile. Hacking up your pretty new UPR O/R X-pipe just to add an air tube that won't do ya' any better seems like more work than it's worth, but hey, if you got the time/money...

TheBocSez · Dec 13, 2005

When I had my o/r UPR x installed, I had the muffler shop weld a tube onto the pipe for the air pump. Charged me like an extra 10.00 or so, no biggie and works fine.

CoupedUp · Dec 13, 2005

Darkwriter77 said:
Nothin' says you couldn't just leave the metal downpipe of the smog pump and all else in place ...

I would weld an air tube on it to stabilize the downpipe ... I won't want that metal downpipe just clanking around ... and I don't know if plugging it up at the end (down by the X pipe) is going to make the pump circuit throw a code

I do appreciate everyone's input though

CoupedUp · Dec 13, 2005

TheBocSez said:
When I had my o/r UPR x installed, I had the muffler shop weld a tube onto the pipe for the air pump. Charged me like an extra 10.00 or so, no biggie and works fine.

I'll probably end up dragging the pipe down to a muffler shop to weld on a tube and then install the X myself.

How do you like the sound of your UPR X ? ...
I'm gonna run a MagnaFlow catback behind it

TheBocSez · Dec 14, 2005

CoupedUp said:
I'll probably end up dragging the pipe down to a muffler shop to weld on a tube and then install the X myself.

How do you like the sound of your UPR X ? ...
I'm gonna run a MagnaFlow catback behind it

I love it. I had a Mac o/r H-pipe before but it leaked bad. Bought the UPR o/r X and was very happy with the fit, the sound. To me, it sounds a little more quite at idle but still get loud at throttle. I am running Dynomax super turbos on mine, but Im old and live in a quiet area so Im trying to keep the neighbors happy.

CoupedUp · Dec 14, 2005

TheBocSez said:
........ I am running Dynomax super turbos on mine, but Im old and live in a quiet area so Im trying to keep the neighbors happy.

At 30, I'm too old for the loud pipes also.
I like a system that can run quiet enough and then come alive when your into it.
There's definitely a difference between a healthy tone and a blatty one.

blackcloud50 · Dec 14, 2005

Darkwriter77 said:
(The smog pump may help emissions, as far as pumping air into the cylinder heads goes, but it doesn't do jack for helping emissions in the cats, so no loss of function with that.)

Sure it does

87GTSnake · Dec 14, 2005

Darkwriter77 said:
I've got the same exact year/motor/tranny as you, CoupedUp, and I'm running the cat'ed UPR X-pipe. Neither mine nor the off-road version have a provision for the smog pump's air tube. Since I need to leave my smog pump on for visual inspection, I left all the plumbing going back to the cylinder heads in place, since it's still technically a functional deal - still pumping air to the heads - but I left the smog tube unhooked. Unless a tech is REALLY looking closely enough to notice the tube, itself, isn't actually connected to anything at the exhaust, itself, they're likely to just go, "Okay, it's there, and the exhaust looks new," and wave it on to hook up to the sniffer. (The smog pump may help emissions, as far as pumping air into the cylinder heads goes, but it doesn't do jack for helping emissions in the cats, so no loss of function with that.)

If you don't have smog nazis in your neck of the woods to worry about, and you want to delete the smog pump, too, just cap the vacuum lines going to the check valves (or leave the valves attached to the line and zip-tie them up someplace out of the way, if ya' wanna), and put a big ol' fatty 3/4" rubber heater plug over the end of the tube going to the back of the heads. Supposedly (according to the articles I've seen on it), it's a snug enough fit that you don't need a clamp on top of that, but I'd put one on there, myself, just to be sure.

Are you sure about it pumping air into the heads? I'm pretty sure it doesnt.

blackcloud50 · Dec 14, 2005

87GTSnake said:
Are you sure about it pumping air into the heads? I'm pretty sure it doesnt.

Yes, it does.

CoupedUp · Dec 14, 2005

87GTSnake said:
Are you sure about it pumping air into the heads? I'm pretty sure it doesnt.

That's what the diverter valve downstream of the smog pump does .. it diverts air into either the heads ... or the piping to the cats.

Darkwriter77 · Dec 14, 2005

Hmmm ... smog tubes I've seen for our cars usually have a bolt loop that you use to bolt it onto one of the exhaust manifold studs with a nut, which should (in theory) keep it from bouncing around much. But if you've switched to headers, then that's probably no longer an option, anyway. Either way ... s'all a matter of preference, I guess. Won't hurt anything, either way.

Aside from the fitment issues I had, I LOVE my exhaust setup. I deliberately got the quietest/cheapest setup I could (within reason) because I work weird hours that sometimes have me leaving for work early in the morning, and I didn't want my neighbors to hate me for being awoken by a thunderous roar every time I start my car. It's nice and sedate while cruising, and the difference between normal driving and really stomping on the throttle is totally night and day; I worried that it would be TOO quiet for my tastes when I first started/drove my UPR X and Dynomax cat-back, but the first time I romped on it at WOT, I was grinning like an idiot for a solid hour.

I would've preferred the Edelbrock RPM cat-back, but it was on back-order everywhere when the time came to drop my dough on a new setup, so I went with something I knew I could live with.

87GTSnake · Dec 14, 2005

blackcloud50 said:
Yes, it does.

Sorry, i should have been more specific. I kno that its intended for that but what i meant was that 99% of the time the tube on the back of the heads is so full of ***** that no air would ever get through it.

At least thats the way it is on every one i've ever seen.

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