Using Pickle-fork cause damage?

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Hydrocarbon

New Member

Nov 18, 2003

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Medford Oregon

Dec 11, 2003

#1

• Dec 11, 2003

• #1

I'm getting ready to do the granada front disc conversion on my 69 mustang.

I was told to use a Pickle-fork to seperate the tie rods and the spindle from the ball-joints. However my mustang restoration book tells me that using a PF will damage the dust boots, and that I should use a "C" shaped puller to remove them without damage.

The PFs are cheap and the puller is freaking expensive, but I don't want to damage anything so I'm not sure which one to get.

What do you guys use?

 

Realmongo

I prefer to be called "Evil Genius"

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Oct 10, 2001

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99

Western Mass

Dec 11, 2003

#2

• Dec 11, 2003

• #2

Hydrocarbon said:

I'm getting ready to do the granada front disc conversion on my 69 mustang.

I was told to use a Pickle-fork to seperate the tie rods and the spindle from the ball-joints. However my mustang restoration book tells me that using a PF will damage the dust boots, and that I should use a "C" shaped puller to remove them without damage.

The PFs are cheap and the puller is freaking expensive, but I don't want to damage anything so I'm not sure which one to get.

What do you guys use?

Click to expand...

I always use the fork and replace the joints anyway so I am not concerened with damaging the boots, as new ones are always provided with the new components. If you do use the fork, make sure you use the right sized fork. There is one size for ball joints and another size for tie rod ends.

 

E

electricgreen

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Dec 11, 2003

#3

• Dec 11, 2003

• #3

Just a suggestion on tools like that-check your local auto parts place-some of them rent tools (autozone does). That way you don't need to buy a tool that you won't use frequently...

 

Edbert

Founding Member

Jul 13, 2002

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Austin TX

Dec 11, 2003

#4

• Dec 11, 2003

• #4

Using a PF will usually destroy the rubber seals around your rod-ends. I'm with Mongo on this though, replace them! Now is the time.

You can "rent" a PF from most local parts stores for free. This is particularly true if you buy your tie rods from them

 

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Hydrocarbon

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Nov 18, 2003

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Medford Oregon

Dec 11, 2003

#5

• Dec 11, 2003

• #5

Well, I'll be getting new tie-rods to do the conversion, and hopefully they will come with new seals. I'm still not sure about the spindle ball joint seals though.

Thanks for the replies, its greatly appreciated.

 

G

gp001

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Jun 30, 2001

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So. Cal.

Dec 11, 2003

#6

• Dec 11, 2003

• #6

Here is some info you may find interesting

http://mustangsplus.com/tech/shockandfall/shockfall1.htm

 

66 BLAKE 96

Native Texican

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Dec 11, 2003

#7

• Dec 11, 2003

• #7

I never needed more than a hammer.

 

B

Big_B

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Oct 22, 2003

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Sacramento

Dec 11, 2003

#8

• Dec 11, 2003

• #8

I agree with the hammer technique - I have destroyed all kinds of stuff with a PF before I tried the hammer...

 

66P51GT

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Nov 7, 2003

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Dec 11, 2003

#9

• Dec 11, 2003

• #9

I also agree with the hammer technique. Worked like a charm on my '66 and my '99.

 

D

D.Hearne

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Sep 29, 2000

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south louisiana

Dec 11, 2003

#10

• Dec 11, 2003

• #10

personally, I like the BFH method. I would replace both the upper and lower control arms when doing the swap, if they've never been changed. And the rest of the front suspension parts too ( springs, spring pivots, the rest of the tie rods and draglink, pitman arm, idler arm, etc.)

 

pabear89

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Apr 15, 2003

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High in the Hills of So Ca with the Voices in My H

Dec 12, 2003

#11

• Dec 12, 2003

• #11

I'm with DH, it's cheaper as a kit and in the long run,
You only have to do it once.

PB