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Vacuum line help

  • Thread starter Thread starter Artyom
  • Start date Start date Aug 27, 2024
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    95 5.0 hesitation vacuum line
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Artyom

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  • Aug 27, 2024
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I was wondering if anyone could help with where my vacuum lines need to go. I’m not sure why the vacuum diagram on my hood and many other forums I’ve looked at all confuse me. Partly because the previous owners had a really complicated way they put together all the vac lines. However I had pulled them off to do some engine work and forgot how it all went together.

So attempting to follow the diagram I had finally gotten something put together. Now the car has a slightly low idle, and has a really bad hesitation when giving a slight amount of gas.

I’ve taken pictures on how I went back and tried routing things differently to hopefully solve it. Does this look right so far?
(PS: there is a trick flow upper intake on, and a different little piece that is after the throttle body which has 3 vacuum barbs.)



For context:
Green circle: is the hose coming from the canister purge valve. I can’t tell if the diagrams I’ve looked at say it goes on the throttle body vac. But some other diagrams say “man vac” which I’m guessing goes on one of the lower manifold vacuum barbs.

Yellow circle: is the hose coming from the top part of my PCV valve. It has a lower barb that had the big tube on it, then a top barb with a smaller tube (yellow circle).

blue circle: is the main vac tube on the vac tree labeled “S” and has a blue marking. Now I’ve see a photo with the blue marked tube on the large nub on the part after the throttle body, but other photos show it’s located under the upper intake manifold on the back part so I’m still sticking with that.

Red circle: is the fuel pressure regulator that is connected to the main vac line. the capped of part next to it originally had a red line for emissions stuff running to it. But I since tried swapping it to the part after the throttle body.

Now for the big PCV tube: that is running to the lower front side of the intake manifold. This is the only tube I remember that before I had taken everything apart, it was on the big nub on the part after the throttle body.

Now this is just a test, I haven’t been able to try this set up yet as it’s too late to try running the car. Is this how it’s supposed to go together? Sorry for all the confusion.
 

89ripper

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rough idle, misses while accelerating

here is the back story. traded my nice 2001 4.0L cherokee sport for a 1995 mustang GT 5.0 and taking it around the parking lot it ran good. we traded and on the 1 1/2 hour drive home i noticed it had no power and missed like chugged like crazy. thought it was timing so got it home and they didnt...
stangnet.com

Post#4
(I realize there is some confusion probably due to what a previous owner has done, you just need to make sure all your components that need vacuum have it, and any connections arent left open.)
 
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Artyom

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  • Aug 28, 2024
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I’m in defeat. Tried a few different combinations and the car just really struggles still. I’m thinking its the intake manifold not being bolted down fully because the original bolts just wouldn’t grab their threads anymore. Not stripped but like they are too short now? I’m using longer bolts but didn’t cut them down a little so they would sit completely in the hole. The gasket also had a crack in it. So this could be just a massive leak from the intake manifold?
Quick note, when I mean not bolted down fully I mean this by 3 of the 4 corner bolts are slightly too long. So the head of the bolt isn’t snug against the intake manifold.
It all probably has to come off yet again as the valve covers that started this whole ordeal are still leaking.
 
Last edited: Aug 28, 2024

85GTStangGuy

5 Year Member
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#4
  • Aug 28, 2024
  • #4
Artyom said:
..... 3 of the 4 corner bolts are slightly too long. So the head of the bolt isn’t snug against the intake manifold.
Click to expand...

Ummm.... that's a hard no-go right there.

Get the right bolts and some new gaskets for starters.

One place to get the hardware....

https://lmr.com/product/search?vehicle=1979-93-Mustang&q=intake+bolts&productListPage=1
 
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Noobz347

Stangnet Facilities Maint Tech... Er... Janitor
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#5
  • Aug 28, 2024
  • #5
Where is your vacuum distribution block in all of this?



Start here and work your way outward. Include any aftermarket gadgets in your brain (or on paper) in your checks so that you can figure out what's going on.



This to me, looks like a tap created for a vac/boost gauge. You got one of those? Included in that tap may be a small orifice restrictor, in the line.

It's a bit of a hack job but it looks like it should work.
 
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Artyom

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that whole mess was to mimic the metal vac tree that came on the stock intakes. Looks like this.

Should I just get rid of that mess I have now and just route the main vac line to the manifold. I watched a video and got an understanding for how the whole vacuum thing works. But from what I’m seeing it should work?

Also, I cut the bolts down a little so they would fully tighten just to see if it would make a difference. It didn’t but thought I’d give it a try. However I’m noticing the tube on the top barb for the PCV is making a lot of noise. A vacuum noise, but doesn’t seem to be leaking. Pinching the tube makes it go away. Is it supposed to sound like that? Right now it’s plugged into the barb on the part after the throttle body. I just can’t seem to find where it’s really supposed to go as I can’t find it on any diagrams or pictures.

The vacuum tree/ block is on the driver side fender
 
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Artyom

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  • Sep 3, 2024
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So I put the new gasket on, bolted everything up annnd she still has a poor idle and slight surging at moments. I’m stumped.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#8
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Surging idle checklist.............https://www.stangnet.com/mustang-forums/threads/698148
Covers all the bases, resetting the computer...when, where and how......idle reset steps, everything.....
 
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Artyom

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I had enough time to try a few things, not sure if I found anything of use.
I pulled the EGR hose to make sure it wasn’t running at idle, no vacuum. Pulled the FPR hose and no fuel was leaking out of it. However I noticed that the pressure check valve on the fuel rail is very slightly hissing and leaking some fuel? Could this mean there is too much fuel pressure?
I also found that I can pull the connector to the IAC and the cars idle will not change, however unplugging the MAF sensor, the car does die. I was looking at some posts and apparently it should stay idling?
 

89ripper

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#10
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Too much? Well what is your fp set at? Not sure about MAF, i believe in runs in limp mode. How did the surging idle checklist work for ya?
 
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Artyom

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I haven’t been able to check the pressure. Should be around 40 from what I’ve been seeing?
I haven’t been able to go through all of it yet but some quick checks I was able to do. Like unplugging tps, maf, then SPOUT to see if the car still ran. And checking the egr and fpr vacuum lines. It just puzzles me how it ran fine after I replaced the gaskets, but I had to redo one because it was leaking pretty badly, then thats when issues started to happen.
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
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#12
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What gasket was replaced again?
 

AeroCoupe

lube between the nut and the face. I know my lubes
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#13
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The schrader valve in the fuel line can go bad just like the valve in a tire stem. They sell new ones and the same tool that removes the ones in a tire stem will work on the schrader valve.

Whole assembly:

Motorcraft Mustang EFI Schrader Valve (86-04) CM3461

Have a leaking schraeder valve on your 1986-2004 Mustang? We have you covered with this Ford OEM Part!
lmr.com

Just the valve:
Victor valve core part number 22-5-00710-8

Tool:
Milton Industries Valve Repair Tool part number MILS445
 
A

Artyom

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#14
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I replaced the gasket in between the upper and lower intake. My next culprit possibly is I know I keep getting a code for the TPS sensor (121). I’ve replaced it and I don’t think you adjust the TPS on the 94 and 95 cars?? It never seemed to cause issues for me when it ran just fine. I do need to run codes again as when I took it for a little test drive the engine light came on twice.
Also thank you for that part! Much appreciated!
 

General karthief

wonder how much it would cost to ship you a pair
Mod Dude
Aug 25, 2016
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#15
  • Sep 4, 2024
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Did you reset the computer?
 
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Artyom

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You reset the computer by leaving the battery unplugged for 5 min if i remember?
 

89ripper

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#17
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Artyom said:
You reset the computer by leaving the battery unplugged for 5 min if i remember?
Click to expand...
On foxbodys like 15/20 min and turn on headlights after to purge electrical current.
Im sure 5 min is fine, but just to be sure
 

nickyb

I gotta say i never painted my nuts, Never Ever
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You need to adjust the new tps you installed
 
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Artyom

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#19
  • Sep 5, 2024
  • #19
Can you adjust the tps on the 94-95 mustangs?
 

89ripper

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#20
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  • #20
According to a search on the web, its split some say do it some say its unnecessary. According to LMR at least

TPS Voltage Adjustment Video | 86-04 Mustang - LMR.com

Need help installing or adjusting your 86-04 Mustang throttle position sensor? Watch our install video to help you install and properly adjust your Stang's TPS.
lmr.com
 
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