Valve Body Question

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inklvr

New Member

Apr 12, 2005

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Rockford, IL

Jul 29, 2005

#1

• Jul 29, 2005

• #1

Installed a PA valve body on AOD. 1-2 shift is hard deppending on how much I get on it. 2-3 shift is very hard, I hit my head on the seat before. Then when I want it to shift into OD (4) I have to get the rpm's at 2000 or above (my speed is about 55-60) and then let off the gas real quick and it will shift hard. If I don't have the rpm's up even slightly below it won't shift. I have tried not letting my foot off and it will just keep in 3rd. Does this sound normal? It shifts at the same time everytime. No other problems. Just wondering about OD.

 

QDRHRSE

New Member

Dec 31, 2002

1,590

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Palmdale, CA

Jul 29, 2005

#2

• Jul 29, 2005

• #2

Yes. They are designed so that they do not shift into OD under full throttle. As for the high rpm into OD- that may be a TV pressure adjustment that you need to make. AOD's are a pain.

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 29, 2005

#3

• Jul 29, 2005

• #3

Man I'm having the same problem. The shop just rebuilt my whole tranny and put in an Art Carr manual/auto valve body and it's doing the same thing. I know it locks out of OD under full throttle, but it won't go into OD under part throttle acceleration. It will only do it if I'm way over 3K in third and I let completely off the gas. It shifts from 1 thru 3rd like a damn race car. I knew it would shift hard but this thing honestly has instant engagement, slams into every gear and will bark the tires going into second and third without effort even under part throttle acceleration. The builder said the governor might be bad causing my OD problem and they are also going to tweak the TV pressure adjustment. I hope that takes care of it.

 

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inklvr

New Member

Apr 12, 2005

19

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Rockford, IL

Jul 29, 2005

#4

• Jul 29, 2005

• #4

My tv cable was adjusted and the pressure is good. If that's the way it's suppost to be, fine with me. I didn't think 2000rpm is that high. That's where it will shift for 1-2 and 2-3. I just wanted to make sure that I'm suppost to let off in order to get OD.

I wish mine would bark tires! That's what it's suppost to do, and you don't like it??? I replaced the tv cable, vb, and governor when I just rebuilt the trans. I guess when I get a new converter, there's a dampener or something that can be taken off to make the shifts even harder. Woohoo!

 

mustangGT85

Founding Member

Aug 16, 2002

264

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0

Orange CA

Jul 29, 2005

#5

• Jul 29, 2005

• #5

hey, is this hard slamming of gears bad for the AOD. i maen i know it isnt good. but can someone expect to break an AOD quickly with a MVB?

 

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inklvr

New Member

Apr 12, 2005

19

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Rockford, IL

Jul 29, 2005

#6

• Jul 29, 2005

• #6

I read in the trans rebuild manual, the harder the shifts the better for the trans. When it goes smoothly it's creating alot of friction and heat. I'm assuming this is correct???

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 29, 2005

#7

• Jul 29, 2005

• #7

inklvr said:

My tv cable was adjusted and the pressure is good. If that's the way it's suppost to be, fine with me. I didn't think 2000rpm is that high. That's where it will shift for 1-2 and 2-3. I just wanted to make sure that I'm suppost to let off in order to get OD.

I wish mine would bark tires! That's what it's suppost to do, and you don't like it??? I replaced the tv cable, vb, and governor when I just rebuilt the trans. I guess when I get a new converter, there's a dampener or something that can be taken off to make the shifts even harder. Woohoo!

Click to expand...

Oh I don't mind it barking the tires at all. It's just a lot harder than I was expecting. I'm using more clutches than stock alos so I think that makes a difference too. This vb makes a shift kit look like a child's toy. When it shifts it engages instantly and it sounds and feels like you just got rear ended by a semi doing 40. It's wicked I'm tellin ya. Nobody but my gearhead friends will want to ride in it, but I guess that's fine with me. I want to hit the track and see what it will do. Oh yeah, and the faster a trans shifts the less wear it causes due to decreased slippage.

 

QDRHRSE

New Member

Dec 31, 2002

1,590

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Palmdale, CA

Jul 29, 2005

#8

• Jul 29, 2005

• #8

That's what a manual valve body is for. My old car had a Mikes "Ultimate" AOD which is basically the same thing as a Lentech and it did the same thing. However, if you have a stock AOD and more than stock HP- it will break pretty quick. Regardless of who makes it, an AOD will not hold up without a few things. First and foremost the fluid needs to be changed alot and I would recommend using a sythetic to boot. Next, they need a shift improver kit....a valve body falls into this category of course! And finally, when you really start making power, a tranny with better, and more, clutches and steels is absolutely needed. When you start to make sick HP 350-400+ I would recommend a billet main shaft as well. The AOD was not meant to be a performance tranny so it takes a little work.

 

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inklvr

New Member

Apr 12, 2005

19

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0

Rockford, IL

Jul 29, 2005

#9

• Jul 29, 2005

• #9

What fluid is best to go with (brand wise)? Now that I have the trans in working order, I'm putting in a temp gauge so I have to drain the fluid for the millionth time. What should I use?

 

QDRHRSE

New Member

Dec 31, 2002

1,590

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Palmdale, CA

Jul 29, 2005

#10

• Jul 29, 2005

• #10

Crap......I'm trying to think......is it Royal Purple???? Hopefully somebody else can give me a hand here. Its been a while.

While you have the pan off install a drain plug!!!!!

 

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inklvr

New Member

Apr 12, 2005

19

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0

Rockford, IL

Jul 29, 2005

#11

• Jul 29, 2005

• #11

I did that when I rebuilt it. I didn't know if Royal Purple was the best or not.

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 29, 2005

#12

• Jul 29, 2005

• #12

QDRHRSE said:

That's what a manual valve body is for. My old car had a Mikes "Ultimate" AOD which is basically the same thing as a Lentech and it did the same thing. However, if you have a stock AOD and more than stock HP- it will break pretty quick. Regardless of who makes it, an AOD will not hold up without a few things. First and foremost the fluid needs to be changed alot and I would recommend using a sythetic to boot. Next, they need a shift improver kit....a valve body falls into this category of course! And finally, when you really start making power, a tranny with better, and more, clutches and steels is absolutely needed. When you start to make sick HP 350-400+ I would recommend a billet main shaft as well. The AOD was not meant to be a performance tranny so it takes a little work.

Click to expand...

I rebuilt it this time with a lot of good parts. Here's what I used.

Alto red master rebuild kit with extra clutches, steels, seals etc
2500 rpm stall converter
Art Carr manual/auto valve body
Hardened billet input shaft
FRPP Cooler
Torrinton thrust bearings
Intermediate locking snap rings
Redline synthetic fluid
Kevlar OD band
A+ OD servo

This baby is ready for the next power adding phase

 

GearHd6

Member

Jul 19, 2005

459

0

18

Ashford, CT

Jul 29, 2005

#13

• Jul 29, 2005

• #13

I was lookin into that valve body for a 91 AOD but I was worried it was going to go into OD way to soon on the highway. I like to shift into OD at about 65 mph which is about 3Krpms in drive. Will it do what I want it to do?

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 29, 2005

#14

• Jul 29, 2005

• #14

Yeah the new one I have, assuming it is working correctly won't go into OD unless I"m pretty high up in third gear and let off. You can always get one with OD delete that lets you activate OD with a switch.

 

GearHd6

Member

Jul 19, 2005

459

0

18

Ashford, CT

Jul 30, 2005

#15

• Jul 30, 2005

• #15

Isnt the OD delete valve body a full manual valve body with a trans brake and also about $550?

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 30, 2005

#16

• Jul 30, 2005

• #16

I believe you can get a manual/automatic from one of the better companies with OD delete, but I could be wrong.

 

D

Deleted member 87397

Jul 30, 2005

#17

• Jul 30, 2005

• #17

I just checked out the better ones and PA doesn't have an auto/manual one with OD delete, but Lentech's street terminator valve body is a manual/auto with OD delete and it's about 400 bucks.