Versailles Rear End & T-5 Setup

tx65coupe

Active Member
Nov 29, 1999
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My coupe is going to have a 302 with a T5 and a Lincoln Verailles Rear. I have a couple of questions.

I read that there is a possible pinion / driveshaft angle problem when running a Versailles rear end that needs shims on the perches to correct it. I understand that the T5 conversion crossmember lowers the rear of the engine about and inch. Is anyone running this setup? If so, have you experienced this?

Also, I'm not sure about the driveshaft issue. Does it need to be about 2 inches shorter than the stock one. Is that true? Where should I purchase a new driveshaft from?


:D
 
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Hey Guys,
Thanks for the input. I'll just wait to worry about the driveshaft measurements until after everything else is set up. Can anyone recommend a good place to get a driveshaft? Whats the best way to measure for it?
 
Use the old driveshaft as a reference and see how it measures up to the new setup. You want the slip yoke to fit inside the tailhousing and have about an inch and a half to 2 inches clearance before bottoming out on the tailshaft to allow for the movement of the rear axle pinion under accelleration/decelleration.
 
We are getting closer to the point of getting everything set up. I don't have an original driveshaft. It found a new home along with most of the other 6 cylinder parts. How long is the factory driveshaft?
 
I got my driveshaft made by Denny's Driveshafts and was very pleased. It's a mailorder shop so you give them the dimensions and what yoke / u-joint setup you want and it's custom made.

Note - I had to run shims under my axle and raise the rear of the transmission to get proper driveline angle, you'll have to bolt your stuff up to see how the angles work out (this is on a '67 though...).
 
shortening the driveshaft is difficult to do at home if you want to have it done right because you need a lathe to mill of the old yoke (to be able to reuse it unless you have a new one). The best you can do is to take the driveshaft to a machine shop to mill it, then cut it to desired length at home and weld it. Milling's accuracy is critical. .5 mm off center will make it impossible to balance. Yet it is easy job for any machinist and should not charge you more than $40 vs. $400 for mailorder a new piece
 
Thanks for the info.

I don't have a driveshaft anyway, so I have to either buy a used one and have it modified or buy a new one that is the correct length.

I sold the driveshaft along with a bunch of 6 cylinder parts. I wanted to get an aluminum driveshaft anyway.

I was looking at this one. It is for a T-5 conversion.

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb...~S2JQ062F5S74192111350d~Z5Z5Z5~Z5Z5Z50000016e

I don't know if the Versailles rear requires the driveshaft to be any shorter than having an 8 inch factory rear.
 
If you use a used drive shaft don't remove the card board tube inside, it acts as a sound deadner when something like a pebble hits it. You wouldn't want to use the drive shaft from the six anyway they are smaller in diameter and could "whip" at RPM. Modifying a stock shaft at a local shop would be a more economical than a new shaft. Make sure it is a drive shaft shop or someone w/ experience.
 
Thanks for the additional tips woodsnake and edster.

I wasn't aware that there was cardboard like material inside the driveshaft.

I'll have to wait to take the measurement until the engine and trans are in. That may be just a little while yet.