I finally solved the mystery! 
This is for all you vert guys out there with tops that won't drop. Check out my other post for the history of the problem I had.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=472130
Here's the deal:
Check your circuit breaker first, though it's likely not the problem. They're tough little breakers.
Here's how to locate it, up under the dash to the left of the steering column about halfway to the top (in this general area) you will see a 14 gauage wire that is black with a yellow stripe. If you have trouble spotting it, remove your kick panel and follow it up. Not easy to do, but it may help get you in the right spot. The relay will be attached some how to the dash infastructure (I'm vague on this because mine had come loose, part of how my problem started). It's about 1 inch long, rectangular, and bright silver. Be careful pulling it down, or testing it, because the leads may or may not still have 12V on them and the terminals are not fully covered. If the is 12V on one side, but not the other, congrats you found your problem.
If there is not 12V, or if you have relays that click, but don't drop the top:
Pop the hood and stare at you starter solenoid for a minute, theres about 275 wires (might be a slight exaggeration, lol) connected to that thing and one of them affects your vert top. On the switched side of the solenoid, there is a 10 gauge wire that drops down about 3-4 inchs and goes into a rubber block. On the other side of that block, about 3-4 more inches down you will find a group of 3 or 4 (not looking at the car right now) fusible links. One of them is the 12V power to your top relays. Clean them off a bit and on of them is black/yellow. This is the wire you want. Feel the link, it is most likey rubbery and soft, and feels like there's no wire inside. Thats' because it has literally burned inside the rubber, just like a blade fuse does. Tap behind the fusible link and jump a wire straight to the 12V of your battery. Press the top switch, the motor should respond now.
Two way to fix it:
Go get the appropriate fusible link from Ford (what I am doing) for 24.00.
Run a new 12 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse on it to the switched side of your solenoid. This is safe, if your connections are, and electrically sound, and what I would do until my part came in if Ford had to order it, but I would not leave it this way personally.
Feel free to ask me questions if you need help, I suffered with my top non-op for three months in sunny SoCal, so I feel your pain...
Problem solved
This is for all you vert guys out there with tops that won't drop. Check out my other post for the history of the problem I had.
http://forums.stangnet.com/showthread.php?t=472130
Here's the deal:
Check your circuit breaker first, though it's likely not the problem. They're tough little breakers.
Here's how to locate it, up under the dash to the left of the steering column about halfway to the top (in this general area) you will see a 14 gauage wire that is black with a yellow stripe. If you have trouble spotting it, remove your kick panel and follow it up. Not easy to do, but it may help get you in the right spot. The relay will be attached some how to the dash infastructure (I'm vague on this because mine had come loose, part of how my problem started). It's about 1 inch long, rectangular, and bright silver. Be careful pulling it down, or testing it, because the leads may or may not still have 12V on them and the terminals are not fully covered. If the is 12V on one side, but not the other, congrats you found your problem.
If there is not 12V, or if you have relays that click, but don't drop the top:
Pop the hood and stare at you starter solenoid for a minute, theres about 275 wires (might be a slight exaggeration, lol) connected to that thing and one of them affects your vert top. On the switched side of the solenoid, there is a 10 gauge wire that drops down about 3-4 inchs and goes into a rubber block. On the other side of that block, about 3-4 more inches down you will find a group of 3 or 4 (not looking at the car right now) fusible links. One of them is the 12V power to your top relays. Clean them off a bit and on of them is black/yellow. This is the wire you want. Feel the link, it is most likey rubbery and soft, and feels like there's no wire inside. Thats' because it has literally burned inside the rubber, just like a blade fuse does. Tap behind the fusible link and jump a wire straight to the 12V of your battery. Press the top switch, the motor should respond now.
Two way to fix it:
Go get the appropriate fusible link from Ford (what I am doing) for 24.00.
Run a new 12 gauge wire with a 30 amp fuse on it to the switched side of your solenoid. This is safe, if your connections are, and electrically sound, and what I would do until my part came in if Ford had to order it, but I would not leave it this way personally.
Feel free to ask me questions if you need help, I suffered with my top non-op for three months in sunny SoCal, so I feel your pain...
Problem solved
