I just got done installing my new TFS twisted Wedge heads and the car is running like crap. The headers are smoking, it has a hesitation, it runs rough. I don't know what to do. Help me please.
Very POed Need Help
- Thread starter TrueBlue95GT
- Start date
super302
I'd do anything for free Bapples
I changed from mac equal lengths to fox body flowtechs, I put in solid motor mounts, I changed the rockers to crane 1.6's, I changed the valve covers to the stock height trick flows, and I think that's it.
The headers are smokin cause they are new or they got oil on em.
Check for leaks and loose wires.
Be sure to go over all bolts after a couple of heat cycles as they will loosen up a bit.
Don't worry, it takes a while to sort everything out after a big motor upgrade like changing the heads.
Just double check everything.
You'll find it & its usually something simple.
Later
Grady
Check for leaks and loose wires.
Be sure to go over all bolts after a couple of heat cycles as they will loosen up a bit.
Don't worry, it takes a while to sort everything out after a big motor upgrade like changing the heads.
Just double check everything.
You'll find it & its usually something simple.
Later
Grady
I just remembered that I forgot to put my oil dipstick back in...could this cause the car to run like chit?
dstanggt50
Founding Member
I don't know if oil will come out of where the dipstick goes, might be part of your smoking problem. I would also check for exhaust leaks, any vacuum leaks, doubble check timing, fuel pressure, and try to pull any codes. Double check everything.
After a warm-up cycle did you re-check the timing??? You should be able to tweak it up some....is it a base??? Recheck the plug wiring...
how did you do up the valves??? Pull a cover and re-check the set-up....maybe they're to tight??
I would agree with Grady it takes a bit for it to come around but it shouldn't be hesitating and falling in its face or the like...have you road tested it yet??
F/P around 38 or so should be good....
how did you do up the valves??? Pull a cover and re-check the set-up....maybe they're to tight??
I would agree with Grady it takes a bit for it to come around but it shouldn't be hesitating and falling in its face or the like...have you road tested it yet??
F/P around 38 or so should be good....
I set the timing at 10* with the spout out. I do have a small exhaust leak from what I can hear. I originally had the fuel pressure at 40psi without vacuum, but when I turned it up to 50psi without vacuum the car ran much better. I set the rockers by tightening until zero lash and then another 3/4 turn. There is no CE light.
Nik_95Cobra
Founding Member
I'm going to try and seal the exhaust up totally and clean all the oil off of the headers from when the dipstick wasn't there. Do you guys have any tips on getting rid of a leak between the the header collector and the start of the h-pipe? Every time I seem to put my exhaust back up, there seems to be a different leak. Also, will having the timing down at 10* base make the car run bad with aluminum heads or do most guys just turn up the timing because it doesnt detonate as easily for performance?
Try these...The number should be good at most auto stores....I been using these for years to seal that connection....2.00 each or so....unbolt, trim to size, and bolt it up...should cure it...
2 1/2" ID....fiber outer and Aluminum in the middle....bout .080 thick or so..you can see they'll form right around that connection...you can tellI reefed on mine before to seal em....
2 1/2" ID....fiber outer and Aluminum in the middle....bout .080 thick or so..you can see they'll form right around that connection...you can tellI reefed on mine before to seal em....
Ok I used those gaskets that you told me about and they worked like a charm. Car sounds meaner than it ever has before. However, it's still not running right. Now, the idle starts surging up and down starting small at first and then getting bigger and then it finally dies. I'm going to try redoing the valvetrain. Do you think it would be better to go 1/2 turn more after zero lash?
loud 95
New Member
50 psi with vacuum is more pressure than you need....also, check your tune. When you do a head or cam swap, your ECU will have difficulty. Also, make sure your engine has the correct oil level, as you definitely lost some out of the dipstick. The roughness of idle is definitely contributed to by the solid mounts, and lack of dipstick/oil. If you have to, play around with your idle control sensor on your throttle body, as this is out of the control of your twEECer rt. After my HCI swap and chip, I had to adjust mine slightly. As for the car falling on it's face, I would check your timing; both on the tune and how it is set initial. Try turning your fuel pressure down to the low 40's and see what you get for idle/driving characteristics. That is about where you should be with vacuum on that combo. After my HCI install, I turned my fuel pressure up from 40 to 43, which alleviated the problem of the car surging and dying.
TrueBlue95GT said:
Great...glad they worked for ya...
Here's my thoughts FWIW....
I assume your running stock cam....so not changing the cam and getting surging like your saying is kinda odd...
If you bring the idle up some and hit it, does it sound snappy so to say?? or is the power sound kinda flat, like its got no sack???
if its sounds kinda flat then i would first bring the timing up some...see if that makes it come alive more...if the timing has no real affect...then i would re-check the valves thinking maybe their to tight and the valves are hanging open...hard telling not hearing it...although above you say its running better than ever??
Surging....to me either the ECC is still freaking out and trying to settle in or you could have a bad IAC??? try disconnecting the IAC valve...if that stops the surging then it may be the culprit?? my Fox swap did that at first...I ran it disconnected all Summer...it'll get you by for now...in the warm weather its ok and works fine...until you hit the AC...The compressor running at idle will kill it with the IAC disconnected...as the IAC helps when a load such as the AC is put on the motor...cruising its fine...at idle its different...she'll die...
Try re-setting the idle per this link...It solved my surging....follow it step for step...http://www.muscularmustangs.com/maintain.html
Your F/P setting of 50 is kinda wack to me... have you pulled a plug or 2 for a look see??? they might tell you something...
Hope it helps some...like Grady mentioned...you gotta sort things out and tune it in...
Since I don't have the car registered or insured yet, I can't really bring it out on the road for tuning much. I set the stud mount roller rockers in this way: Start on number 1 cylinder and turn the motor until I notice that the valve is all the way closed. The pushrod was as far down as it would go and then I would wait a minute or 2 til the lifter settled and then I would tighten the fulcrum nut until I could feel the pushrod contacting the rocker arm. Then I turned the nut another 3/4 turn. Then I tightened the hex center. I used this for all the rocker arms. There's no valvetrain noise. I'm wondering if they're too tight also. What's weird is that at idle the vacuum is around 18inhg at idle and then when I keep it revved to like 3000rpms, the vacuum is around 22inhg, which the car has never pulled in before. I've got a lot more vacuum than I've had before, so I'm guessing these heads are working how they are supposed to. I read many places that 3/4 turn after zero lash is the way to go but alot of places said 1/2 turn and 1/4 turn for drag strip only. What do you all recommend?
TrueBlue95GT said:
OK then, stud rockers.
Gonna keep it short but accurate. Go to Ed C's site and adj your valves like his article describes. http://www.flowtechinduction.com/
Don't know if this your first time at valve adjustment but if it is ...........
It is hard to describe but, when you are at the point of finding zero lash it is very easy to go beyond that point and if you go far enough past zero, things are too tight.
I usually move the pr up and down until there is the slightest bit of movement and at that point stop. I then twist the pr with one hand and tighten the nut with the other hand. You twist the pr and the nut all at the same time.
The objective of this two handed procedure is to stop turning the nut when the slightest resistance is felt while twisting the pr. At this point you should be at zero lash.
Summing up
First.............get the lifter on the correct part of the cam
Second.........find zero lash
Everything else is self explanatory
Hope that helps
Later
Grady
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