Visible Spark In Shifter, Interesting Gauges...

[JordanB21]

Today I witnessed sparks on start up in my Shifter (automatic) inbetween where the shifter is. The radio flikered on and off, the lights went from normal bright to dim (possibly running off the battery for a bit?). The temperature gauge went passed the red, the oil gauge went all the way to the right, and the battery gauge dropped into the red.

I guess is some kind of short but I know nothing about electronics so could someone shed some light on what is happening with this situation. Even the tiniest bit of information, thanks.

 

[revhead347]

Take it apart and look for a flimsy wire. There is only like one switch down there in the auto shifter assembly. A couple of lights and stuff, nothing high voltage. I would also check your engine to body ground. If that is making poor connection, the engine will try and ground anyway it can. One way is through the shifter cable.

Kurt

 

[JordanB21]

So I took a look at it today, the nearest wire is a thin green wire (not a clue what it is) possibly what might be bad. I couldn't get to it today because of a time crunch but does that sound like anything familiar? The only other wires is the shifter cable and the overdrive, and the actual electrical wiring that runs off to the left to the back of the console for the foglights and cigarette lighter.

also this is possibly unrelated but the fuse that controls the cigarette lighter, power aux, and power seating for the driver popped.

I haven't looked at the engine to body ground yet (I need to look up where that is still<--noob).
thanks

 

[toyman]

So I took a look at it today, the nearest wire is a thin green wire (not a clue what it is) possibly what might be bad. I couldn't get to it today because of a time crunch but does that sound like anything familiar? The only other wires is the shifter cable and the overdrive, and the actual electrical wiring that runs off to the left to the back of the console for the foglights and cigarette lighter.

also this is possibly unrelated but the fuse that controls the cigarette lighter, power aux, and power seating for the driver popped.

I haven't looked at the engine to body ground yet (I need to look up where that is still<--noob).
thanks

I would say the popped fuse is probably related. The spark you saw most likely was a dead short in one of the wires in the console area. Now that the console is out (I assume) put a low amp fuse in and start to move the wires to see which one is shorting out. You may have to move the shifter if you can't see any visible signs of where the wire shorted.

 

[JordanB21]

The spark was specifically in front of the shifter handle when the handle was in drive. I did take off the console but I put it back on, it wont take but 15 minutes to take off again though.

Again, very large noob when it comes to electrical things, by low amp fuse you mean where the one popped put like a 10 or 5 amp fuse in? and When I move the wires what will occur, the fuse will pop? While the car is on? and if that's all what you mean do I simply replace the wire?

A ton of questions, I know but this is all actually interesting. haha.

Last note on this post, i was playing wityh the shifter handle today, the temperature gauge was resting slightly before the red like usual, then when I push the shifter handle forward closer to neutral from drive the gauge drops and the lights brighten back up. Could this be from the engine trying to ground out through the shifter line or something else?

Thanks, Jordan.

 

[JordanB21]

The first image is (what I think is a ground?) a wire burnt and found disconnected that needs to be replaced.
View attachment 148877
The second image is what the battery voltage was reading (12.80 to 12.81).
View attachment 148878
The third image is where I touched the engine with the negative needle, right below the heads, in between the headers and the heads.
View attachment 148879
The fourth image is the reading when I touch the positive needle to the positive terminal and the negative needle to the engine, still 12.81.
View attachment 148880

The method of checking I used im not sure is accurate or not, there's a dozen different ways people suggest to do this so I went with the most straight forward.

Any particular ground I should be looking for? I've read that there is a ground somewhere near the 3rd amp beneath the stereo, and also a ground beneath the center console, I think attached to the parking break (can't remember). Or is this burnt wire that might or might not be the ground the reason for the sparks and the gauges doing 180s

 

[revhead347]

Yeah, the first picture is of the most interest. Someone has done a crap job replacing a battery terminal. I'm willing to bet that little wire isn't getting good ground. The other wire is suposed to go somewhere too. I'd just go ahead and replace the whole cable from the battery to the block. They sell cables that have extra leads off the terminal. You can ground one of those off on the body there. I would then go ahead and run another 4 gauge cable from the block to the body. You can attach it to the body where the sway bar bolts in. It will be down low and out of the way. I'm willing to bet that's what's causing your problem. That can definately cause lights and gauges to flicker when you move the shifter. The battery voltage isn't of much signifigance because it doesn't take much current to get a good voltage reading.

Kurt

 

[JordanB21]

Alright, I'll have both terminals and wires replaced, and that thin one that isn't connected anymore was initially connected directly to the negative terminal and I'll add the other engine to body ground. Seems like the gauge flickering is a common issue relating back to bad grounds, here's to hoping.

 

[toyman]

I suggest a low amp fuse (2-5) as you don't want the shorted wire to heat to the point of melting the insulation or starting a fire if using something around 30 amps. The short can only be on the power side to ground. Somewhere up by the shifter sounds like where you'll find a chaffed power wire that shorts out as the shifter is moved. Try to trace all the wires in that area from the device (lighter - fog light switch - O/D lamp - ??) back to a harness connector.

 

[JordanB21]

Yeah I can't remember if I said this, but the only cables/wires that are near that area are the lighter, power aux, overdrive, fog lights, I think something connected to the E-brake, and the shifter cable. I'll trace them back to beneath the stereo, when I find the harness connector what should I exactly do?

 

[revhead347]

None of those little rinky dink electrical accessories should have enough current or voltage to shoot a spark anyway.

Kurt

 

[toyman]

Yeah I can't remember if I said this, but the only cables/wires that are near that area are the lighter, power aux, overdrive, fog lights, I think something connected to the E-brake, and the shifter cable. I'll trace them back to beneath the stereo, when I find the harness connector what should I exactly do?

The short has to be between the device and the connector. By tracing the wire and visually inspecting them you should see which wire is shorting out.

 

[jetmech807]

None of those little rinky dink electrical accessories should have enough current or voltage to shoot a spark anyway.

Kurt

The lighter and auxiliary power are straight 12 volts, and that being the fuse that's popped, that's where I'd be looking.

 

[JordanB21]

Well I took a good look at it today, the connectors that were in the back of the console were all dirty and where the spark came from only the shifter cable was there. The overdrive button is clean, secure, and shows no sign of wire damage, same to where the bulb is that illuminates the shift gears. The only thing that was in the vicinity of the spark was the shifter cable that is exposed and a few coins (I found like 3 dollars in quarters and dimes and a cigarette that is 6 years or so old).

I guess my next thing will to be to pull out the stereo bezel and stereo and look where the third amp is for any shorted wiring. The shifter cable is entirely intact and the small section that is exposed I think is meant to be. I'll take and upload pictures of what it looks like tomorrow.
I also will rewrap the loose electrical tape that is around the cords that lead to the power aux, but this isn't relevant since they're no longer in the car and the problem is still present.

A good, not relevant though, note is that I found out how to change the bulb out for the shifter illuminator so when I change all the bulbs to glow white the HVAC, the gauge clusters, and now there I can easily do this. Blue dash here I come!