I replaced the stock 60 amp externally regulator with a stock 1980 granada alternator, (100amp?) with an internal regulator. If I unplug the regulator on my 66 stang, alternator does not charge, and the electric fan runs down the battery. I thought maybe using a jumper wire on the 2 12v hot wires on the plug for the regulator, but once again, no charging from the alternator. Is there a downside to keeping the stock regulator, and the internally regulated alternator? All of the systems seem to operate normally with the regulator plugged in.
Voltage regulator
- Thread starter grainboy
- Start date
CraigMBA
New Member
Can you post a picture of your Granada alternator? And the wiring that attaches to it please?
I'm smoking a brisket and I'm a little faded, and can't remember what that looks like.
65fastbackresto
Active Member
I dont know the answer to your question but..
I saved this info from a prior posting, it may help you.
one wire:
this is from a site...I'm not exactly sure where but I've had it for a while...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I studied the wiring diagrams and cut here and snipped there and got it all to work fine while removing all the unused wiring. I am switching to a Volt meter so I do not discuss hooking up the stock Amp meter.
Short Version
I only had to cut two wires:
1. Solid yellow from the battery side of the relay switch (#152 in the attached diagram)
2. Green-red from the ignition switch to the regulator (#904 in the attached diagram)
3. I also shortened the black-yellow wire (removing the splice) and routed it above the radiator (#37 in the attached diagram)
Long Version
1. Follow the instructions to install your one-wire alternator. Mine was a 140 amp Powermaster.
2. There is only one wire hooking into alternator side of the harness. This is a solid yellow wire (152) that is also connected to the black-yellow (37) wire on the battery side of the starter relay. This is part of the feed for the amp meter. Cut the yellow wire about 4" from the end.
3. Remove the tape between the regulator wiring harness and the starter relay. This is the part of the harness that routed under the radiator. The other part of the same harness runs power to your lights.
4. From here you get a pretty good view of what needs to be cut and what can go.
5. There is a large black wire with yellow stripe. Don't cut this wire yet. This is the main power for the ignition switch. There is also a splice about 1/3 the way to the regulator. Cut everything away from the spice, keeping the black-yellow wire in tact.
6. You should be able to remove all of the wiring from the starter relay switch to the alternator. The only thing remaining should be the black-yellow wire and what is left of the solid yellow wire also hooked into this lead.
7. From the regulator side, you will have to cut away one or two of the plastic locks that help support the wiring harness splicing.
8. There is a green wire with a red stripe that should be exposed. Cut the greed-red (904) wire. I left about 4" just in case I need to splice back into the harness at some point in the future.
9. All of the unused wiring should now be completely free and clear
10. I cut out the splice in the black-yellow wire and shortened it about 12" and routed it around the front side of the battery to the starter relay.
11. I used shrinkwrap to protect the end of the yellow and green-red wires I cut.
'66 stang wiring...
I saved this info from a prior posting, it may help you.
one wire:
this is from a site...I'm not exactly sure where but I've had it for a while...
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I studied the wiring diagrams and cut here and snipped there and got it all to work fine while removing all the unused wiring. I am switching to a Volt meter so I do not discuss hooking up the stock Amp meter.
Short Version
I only had to cut two wires:
1. Solid yellow from the battery side of the relay switch (#152 in the attached diagram)
2. Green-red from the ignition switch to the regulator (#904 in the attached diagram)
3. I also shortened the black-yellow wire (removing the splice) and routed it above the radiator (#37 in the attached diagram)
Long Version
1. Follow the instructions to install your one-wire alternator. Mine was a 140 amp Powermaster.
2. There is only one wire hooking into alternator side of the harness. This is a solid yellow wire (152) that is also connected to the black-yellow (37) wire on the battery side of the starter relay. This is part of the feed for the amp meter. Cut the yellow wire about 4" from the end.
3. Remove the tape between the regulator wiring harness and the starter relay. This is the part of the harness that routed under the radiator. The other part of the same harness runs power to your lights.
4. From here you get a pretty good view of what needs to be cut and what can go.
5. There is a large black wire with yellow stripe. Don't cut this wire yet. This is the main power for the ignition switch. There is also a splice about 1/3 the way to the regulator. Cut everything away from the spice, keeping the black-yellow wire in tact.
6. You should be able to remove all of the wiring from the starter relay switch to the alternator. The only thing remaining should be the black-yellow wire and what is left of the solid yellow wire also hooked into this lead.
7. From the regulator side, you will have to cut away one or two of the plastic locks that help support the wiring harness splicing.
8. There is a green wire with a red stripe that should be exposed. Cut the greed-red (904) wire. I left about 4" just in case I need to splice back into the harness at some point in the future.
9. All of the unused wiring should now be completely free and clear
10. I cut out the splice in the black-yellow wire and shortened it about 12" and routed it around the front side of the battery to the starter relay.
11. I used shrinkwrap to protect the end of the yellow and green-red wires I cut.
'66 stang wiring...
88gt
Founding Member
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