Want nitrous, wet or dry?

95Vert · Sep 24, 2008

I've decided I want to add nitrous to my car. It's an SN95 but I'm completely clueless on which one to get or why. I've got a 190lb in the fuel tank, and an AFPR along with a gauge. What do you guy recommend and what would be good for a newbie to nitrous.

Stopsign32v · Sep 24, 2008

Wet nitrous kit. Get a purge, bottle heater, TPS activation switch (I don't like WOT switches), and MSD window switch and set it to come on at 3,250rpms and off at whatever RPMS you want it to turn off at. that way if you miss a gear you are ok.

Spray a 75 shot to begin with until you are familiar with it and how it works then I'd work my way up to 125 shot.

Also look into the Nitrous Express plate kits. This would eliminate the chance of a nitrous backfire that could be caused by the nozzle kit.

95Vert · Sep 24, 2008

Thanks for that great info man.

SQUEEZE&STROKE · Sep 24, 2008

Wet kits are awesome. The SOTP feel is incredible! I agree with the window switch...I had a F/T switch and I blew the manifold off the car...

94v6GT · Sep 25, 2008

Due to our manifold design, seems like a plate would be safest. Seems to me the upper intake design would make it super easy for fuel to puddle in there in a wet application.

But im sure people have had success with single foggers.

Denise · Sep 25, 2008

I would go with a wet kit safer in my opinion.

divit250r · Sep 25, 2008

94v6GT said:
Due to our manifold design, seems like a plate would be safest. Seems to me the upper intake design would make it super easy for fuel to puddle in there in a wet application.

But im sure people have had success with single foggers.

My cousin and his brother in law both have ZEX wet kits on their 'Stangs and neither have had an issue. The kit they have comes with a 'brain' box that measures output from the TPS to turn the spray on and off.

One thing to consider with the whole fuel puddling issue is that you don't spray the system unless you're at WOT over roughly 3000 RPM. It's not likely that you would have an area of any intake be dead-air at those velocities, so the puddling thing is probably not such an issue. Just a thought.

Scott

Black95GTS · Sep 25, 2008

Seeing that you have a stock rotating assembly, a dry kit will supply all the horsepower that your pistons can handle. The wet kit is harder to install in an EFI system, but is easier to tune once you get everything straightened out.

If you are thinking of a 100 shot, there is no reason not get a an easier to install dry kit.

As mentioned above, the puddling issue is in my opinion over done, similar to the rumor of 347s burning oil. If proper safety precautions are followed this is a non-issue.

Adam

Stopsign32v · Sep 25, 2008

The puddling issue is not overdone.

Were these intakes designed to flow air or fuel?

The nitrous plate kit is much more safe and will give you a hell of alot better hit than any nozzle kit before the TB will.

1slow95 · Sep 25, 2008

Noob here, what's the difference between a wet and dry kit?

Also a small hijack, would I need to upgrade my fuel system if I add a 100 shot to my car? Currently have a Walbro 255 pump and 42# injectors.

Stopsign32v · Sep 25, 2008

Low-5.0 said:
Noob here, what's the difference between a wet and dry kit?

Also a small hijack, would I need to upgrade my fuel system if I add a 100 shot to my car? Currently have a Walbro 255 pump and 42# injectors.

Wet system has fuel and nitrous mixture. Dry has nitrous only before the MAF. It sprays before the MAF and allows your computer to spray the fuel from the injectors. I'm not sure why anyone would run a dry setup. It can peg your MAF and you will need bigger injectors. A wet system eliminates both issues.

Your injectors with a wet setup would be fine. You might or might not need to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump or add an extra one. I'm not quite sure what a 255 maxes out at.

legalize420 · Sep 25, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
Wet system has fuel and nitrous mixture. Dry has nitrous only before the MAF. It sprays before the MAF and allows your computer to spray the fuel from the injectors. I'm not sure why anyone would run a dry setup. It can peg your MAF and you will need bigger injectors. A wet system eliminates both issues.

Your injectors with a wet setup would be fine. You might or might not need to upgrade to a bigger fuel pump or add an extra one. I'm not quite sure what a 255 maxes out at.

nitrous goes after the maf on a dry kit. fuel is added by elevated pressure at the rail.

Black95GTS · Sep 25, 2008

legalize420 said:
nitrous goes after the maf on a dry kit. fuel is added by elevated pressure at the rail.

Totally correct. The dry system "fools" the pressure regulator into thinking it has a stiffer spring, thus increasing pressure during activation.

Wet systems send an air / fuel mixture into the manifold as well... so I don't see your point. Nitrous and or Nitrous / Fuel can puddle with EITHER system.

I believe the nitrous system you are talking about is direct port injection, which when used in an EFI sense would have individual nozzles for each cylinder, and I don't think the poster intends on running a 350 shot with multiple stages on a stock block and rotating assembly. This is also $$$$.

My point being, that a dry system will give the poster all of the horse power that his pistons can handle, and is easier to install, and costs about the same. The wet system is ultimately a better system, but for his purpose dry would be my choice.

Adam

Stopsign32v · Sep 25, 2008

Either way a 100 dry shot will put his 42lb injectors over 100% duty cycle. No reason not to go with a wet kit here. No reason at all.

Grn92LX · Sep 25, 2008

I've used both and I liked my old cheap NOS 5115 dry kit best.

Black95GTS · Sep 25, 2008

Stopsign32v said:
Either way a 100 dry shot will put his 42lb injectors over 100% duty cycle. No reason not to go with a wet kit here. No reason at all.

1 - His sig says starting from scratch so I take that to mean he has 19 pound injectors? Unless you know something I don't.

2 - A dry nitrous kit will bump the stock fuel pressure from 39.5PSI to about 55PSI (from NOS web page). This increases momentarily the capability of the stock 19 pound injectors. Assuming he runs a 100 shot, on a stock block, he is looking for 315 fly wheel horse power. Assuming a BSFC of .50, you could run the 19 pound injectors at 95 percent duty cycle and safely support 315 flywheel horse power.

3 - 42 Pound injectors will support more horsepower then the stock block can handle, if that is what you really meant to type. A 100 shot on a stock long block will make the 42 pound injectors barely break sweat.

4 - Puddling in the intake is primarily associated with WET kits, NOT dry kits.

Adam

DDSTANG94 · Sep 25, 2008

black95gts > stopsign32v

Stopsign32v · Sep 25, 2008

Black95GTS said:
1 - His sig says starting from scratch so I take that to mean he has 19 pound injectors? Unless you know something I don't.

Adam

I was talking about Low-5.0 would max out his 42lb injectors. They are only good to around 500-530rwhp depending on who you talk to.

Stopsign32v · Sep 25, 2008

DDSTANG94 said:
black95gts > stopsign32v

lol

If you spent more time learning instead of being a pest you might could figure out how to install a camshaft and heads yourself. Its not that hard.

Black95GTS · Sep 25, 2008

Grn92LX said:
I've used both and I liked my old cheap NOS 5115 dry kit best.

My friend in high school had a 1992 Mercury Cougar 25th anniversary edition with the 5.0 he got as his first ride. We put that kit on it and were very circumspect with how we ran the lines.

She was still a tank but the 75shot put a little shimmy in her gitty up. We thought it was the coolest thing since sliced bread to hit the buttom; I was 15 and didn't know any better.

Adam

Want nitrous, wet or dry?

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