was I screwed on the flush and fill?

Speak to the manager, honestly recount what you observed. Be courteous yet FIRM. If you don't get satifaction, demand phone # and address of their District Manager and then follow through.

a proper flush would be:

compeltely drain all radiator fluid from car and replace with water and a flushing solution to remove any oil deposits.

run car for 10 minutes untuil at full operating temperature.

drain and fill with water, drain again.

fill with a 50/50 mix of anti-freeze and distilled water.

Thats why I go with my girl friend when she gets work done on her vehicle (still under warranty with dealership) but I saw people convinced to install parts not required. Be careful. All I can say.

Also, I'd say pick up a Haynes or Chiltons manual. That way you can do all that work yourself and know its right and not have to fret about the "what ifs". Thats what I did cause I cant stand other people I dont know working on my car. The Chiltons is more for experts, the Haynes is for everyone. If you can, get both.

Ya I have the haynes book. The car on the cover looks just like my LX . Red... I may pickup the Chilton one cause i find that yes Haynes is for everyone. Its missing alot of info I need. like tranny stuff, vacuum lines, etc.

Don't get your hackels up, that is a way flushing. These guys did it with a machine instead of the old dump-fill-dump shadetree method. If it makes you feel better, go back to the manager as said before and get the scoop. But thats good you were keeping an eye on things, that will keep you from getting screwed.

i used to work at a garage that used those machines. it intercepts the coolant flow on the rad hose, (at operating temp so the thermostat is open) the machine pumps the coolant through same as the water pump does. in the back of the machine is 2 reservoirs, one with new coolant and one for the old. the machine pumps the new in and as it flows the old is sent to the machine. you werent shafted, but id make sure they ran the car after to purge the system cause sometimes there is a bit of air that gets in when you connect the hoses. also the should have asked you to move the heater control to hot while it was done to get the coolant through the heater core.
they use a similar system to do a tranny fluid change. the system intercepts the tranny line and uses the pump from the tranny to flow the fluid into the machine and forces the new in replacing the old. does almost a 100% fluid change, including torque converter and lines if done right.
remember, just because the coolant isnt a bright green (or yellow/orange depending on fluid type) doesnt mean its bad. you need to test the strength of it with a tester. if its too acidic, it will add to the corrosion of the metals in the system causing leaks and failure.
if you go to the garage, and ask. they usually will explain the machine to you and show you how it works, and you can see where the old coolant goes in the back